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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
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Hello folks,

It's my first post, about my first problem with my first 1986 Spider.

After removing the drain plug (per the manual) and fully draining the radiator, i noticed that the plug (bolt) would not thread back on. After closer examination (see my pictures), it appeared that it wasn't the plug that broke, it was the part of the radiator that the plug screws into that completely sheared off, with the plug still inside.

I'm wondering what options i have at this point for repair? My thought is to simply file down the broken section of the radiator, weld a nut to it, and then thread a small bolt into it with a silicone ring, but i have no experience with this and I'm not sure if it'll actually work.

Ps. I went ahead and pulled out the radiator, flushed the coolant system, including back flushing the heater core and replacing the thermostat. Thank you all in advance!
 

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Find a local rad shop with a guy who works in it that’s older than you are and he will likely be able to fix that pretty easy.
 

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But Mad North-Northwest
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Yeah, that's why I'm afraid to remove the radiator drain plug on my GTV :D

The radiator's brass so you're not going to weld it. The right way to fix this is to get a new bung and solder it on (with a torch and solder, it's pretty easy) or take it to a radiator shop and have them do it.

Alternatively you can just solder what you've got there back on, never touch it again, and in the future drain the system via the lower hose.
 

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it's almost a alfa romeo spider
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i would just get a small copper patch, and solder it on.. you can do it at home with a propane flame.....if you ever need to drain the rad. to remove it.. just take lower hose off. lift rad. out and tip it over to remove the rest of the coolent.. cost? if you have a propand flame.. a samll copper patch// less than a few dollars
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Yeah, that's why I'm afraid to remove the radiator drain plug on my GTV :D

The radiator's brass so you're not going to weld it. The right way to fix this is to get a new bung and braze it on (with a torch and brazing rod, it's pretty easy) or take it to a radiator shop and have them do it.

Alternatively you can just braze what you've got there back on, never touch it again, and in the future drain the system via the lower hose.
After just removing the lower hose, i would prefer to have a functioning drain plug.

I may see if any of the local shops are interested in the work... i haven't found any people willing to work on a 35 y/o Alfa yet. Otherwise, i'll be back to surfing YouTube.

Thanks for the replies so far.
That looks like a great resource! I may now have to buy more than just a new radiator!
 

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Find someone that has a core they will sell you from a junk radiator, have the radiator shop swap the lower tanks.
 

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Any good rad shop should be able to sweat a new drain plug... does not have to be exact just function properly. Good luck
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I ended up just buying a new radiator, water pump, hoses and thermostat. Hopefully that'll fix my overheating issue. The old one was rusty and bent/dented. The new one really looks good. Hopefully, i'll be putting it in tomorrow.

Thanks for the input!
 

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Uh, you didn't mention overheating. Yea, a new radiator (or cleaning or re-coring the old one) was probably called for. Don't know if you needed the water pump, hoses or thermostat but I guess replacing them can't hurt.

Happy (and cool) motoring!
 

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Based on the photo that he provided of the old radiator, if the hoses, water pump and thermostat are in the same condition, changing them out will do a world of good for the engine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Ok, new problem!

The air bleed screw is completely locked up. I've tried wd-40 and heating to no avail. At this point, the head is stripped and I ordered a replacement, but i still need to get it out and replace it to finish my coolant system rebuild. Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated!
 

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I'm pretty sure he means the air bleed screw, near the thermostat.
 

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1982 Alfa Romeo Spider Veloce, 1997 BMW M 3/4/5, 2014 Land Cruiser
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WD-40 is not a good way to free up frozen stuff. PB Blaster or other like products will provide better results. Photos of exact problem are literally worth a 1000 words.
 

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If your bleeder is just a brass cover/ bolt, you can try using a piece of steel , aluminum round dowel
, place it on top of the plug and give it a good walk with a B hammer. This will hopefully jar the plug and also compress the sealing washer and allow it to be loosened. Also you can loosen the temp sensor and bleed at that spot until water comes out there install it. That should be good enough to get the air out. If you have a bleeder valve like on carb cars you have to turn that valve clockwise to open it and cc to close it. Good luck.
 
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