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Back in January I added an 86 GTV6 to the fleet. I've been doing a lot of reading since then. It was last registered in 2006, it also had a bunch of work to it in the spring of 2019 to try and bring it up to roadworthy standards which sure seemed to add up to a really big bill for the previous owner. The goal is to get it to my own level of road worthy now before spring really sets in. We still have snow here but it did finally warm up enough to coax into running the other cars to move them around to make room in the heated space with all the tools etc. When I went to pick it up, the car would either start but not rev up or just not start at all..... I decided to jump in anyway, brave maybe, not wise.....
Parked going up the driveway so the wife and I could push it off the trailer, still wouldn't start.
 

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I got it running the next day after finding the issue. After pulling the marginally better one off the parts car, the idle was really high.
 

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At which point, just before a cold dip the car got a wash job, parked inside for a couple days to dry then moved out to spend the winter out by the camper... :-(
 

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While it was out in the snow bank and because it had a seemingly common GTV6 affliction I sent a door lock cylinder out to have a door key made as the car came with one ignition key and that was it. I was totally happy with AC lock.
 

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I finally got around to doing the car shuffle just on the 17th. Thinking I would tackle the timing belt first, I followed advise from here, since I was planning on changing the front crank seal I as had thought the car had left an oil puddle after the wash day, by propping a bar against the car and using the starter to break the nut loose. I failed, nut wouldn't budge, recharged the battery a couple times, no luck. I had a look closer to see what I was dealing with and there is zero oil wetness around the front pulley, so bailed on that. I also went to drain the coolant by pulling out the drain plug at the bottom of the rad, promptly twisting the plug and mounting boss right off the rad.... A two steps backwards kind of day..
 

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Looks like a perfectly good candidate for road-worthy. Based on what was spent on it previously, which you alluded to, it shouldn't take much at all to get it daily driver ready. Nice looking 6!
 

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I have run across a couple things that I haven't tripped over yet in my BB searching. What are people doing to seal the windshield washer pump in the reservoir? Likewise, what are people doing to get new/better fibre matting that goes under the carpet in the rear trunk? Mine feels oil soaked so I ripped it out.
 

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So one thing I discovered today.. The rubber fuel line that comes from the firewall up to the injector manifold doesn't have a PSI rating on it, which I am used to seeing on fuel injection rated hose. Made by Gates, has what seems like a PN marking on it, GL04085A but I couldn't get google to tell me anything useful about that PN. The rest of the markings are, by Gates, made in USA, MPI and ok for PCV and EEC. Google seems to tell me that the MPI marking is the fuel injection marking but I'm not convinced yet. The line to the cold start injector and the individual injectors is the same stuff. Anyone know more that I?
 

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The rest of today was checking valve clearances and retorquing the head. Clearances were great all the way around. Each of the head nuts went about an 1/8-1/4 turn past starting point on torque up so I felt good about doing that. Also cleaned up the valve covers. Did have one hiccup, zero threads at all in the one bolt hole by the distributor, if I had know at the time I could have just pulled the bolt straight up with my fingers. Put a helicoil in as that's what I have on hand. See what tomorrow brings, I didn't order a new water pump on spec with the rest of everything and I should have as the pulley has a touch of wobble in it but with the US/Can border closed now to all but commercial traffic it's a bit harder to go pick one up myself. Sigh. Tomorrow is likely going to be tackling putting in headlight relays.
 

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I did remember to change the last spark plug while the valve cover was off, which was a left over job from trying to get it running. I also need to see if our local home hardware has Alfa parts in stock....
 

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I did discover today that the big alternator thru bolt seems to be one unit with the alternator now. I sprayed the three bracket mounting nuts before closing up for the night. See how fun that ends up being.... :-s
It also needs a new cap and rotor, first time I've seen a cap with the internal posts having an arc eroded away out of the exposed metal part. I've been lucky I guess.
 

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So one thing I discovered today.. The rubber fuel line that comes from the firewall up to the injector manifold doesn't have a PSI rating on it, which I am used to seeing on fuel injection rated hose. Made by Gates, has what seems like a PN marking on it, GL04085A but I couldn't get google to tell me anything useful about that PN. The rest of the markings are, by Gates, made in USA, MPI and ok for PCV and EEC. Google seems to tell me that the MPI marking is the fuel injection marking but I'm not convinced yet. The line to the cold start injector and the individual injectors is the same stuff. Anyone know more that I?
If this is the same hose, according to Jegs it's rated to 225 PSI so it should be good.

I do believe that the short fuel injector lines are supposed to to 7mm not 8mm but I'm not positive.


Sent from my GM1917 using Tapatalk
 

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I have run across a couple things that I haven't tripped over yet in my BB searching. What are people doing to seal the windshield washer pump in the reservoir? Likewise, what are people doing to get new/better fibre matting that goes under the carpet in the rear trunk? Mine feels oil soaked so I ripped it out.
This replacement ww washer pump works just fine-- fits into the existing port opening in the reservoir. Use a little dab of vaseline on the rubber seal ring, or just water before you pop it in.


You can buy adhesive backed sound control matt from McMaster Carr Supply, in small quantities online. Foil backed or plain.
 

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So one thing I discovered today.. The rubber fuel line that comes from the firewall up to the injector manifold doesn't have a PSI rating on it, which I am used to seeing on fuel injection rated hose. Made by Gates, has what seems like a PN marking on it, GL04085A but I couldn't get google to tell me anything useful about that PN. The rest of the markings are, by Gates, made in USA, MPI and ok for PCV and EEC. Google seems to tell me that the MPI marking is the fuel injection marking but I'm not convinced yet. The line to the cold start injector and the individual injectors is the same stuff. Anyone know more that I?
The underhood fuel hoses are 8mm ID, but the short injector hoses are 7.5mm ID. VERY important to get the correct size if you don't want fuel seepage. Here's where I got my hoses for my S4 Spider recently:

 

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Discussion Starter #18
Well, today was a win some, loose some kinda day. One of the four mounting screws for the headlights is rusted in place. I soaked it overnight with no luck. Took the LH fender forward splash guard out to get at the back of the light/grill with a heat gun, I got really excited, like patting myself on the back, tears of joy excited when I got the little crack of the fastener breaking loose sound and feel, only to discover it was the little rivnut swagged in the grill turning and not the screw... Managed to get the whole grill assembly out with the light still stuck in there to get more focused heat on the little rivnut with no luck. The goal was to change out the sealed beam lights with h4/h1 lights at the same time as doing relays... So bailed on that while I pondered options. Got the repaired rad back, so I reassembled the bits back on it, my only other productive thing I did was put the oil vapour separator can back on. When I was getting the rad I stopped by a hose shop and was able to get a little chunk of 22mm hose to replace the spongy mucky mess that was there before. I started tackling the relay wiring but I only got a bit less than half way in that....
I should try and find a new left side forward splash guard, mines less that whole.
 

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I did discover today that the big alternator thru bolt seems to be one unit with the alternator now. I sprayed the three bracket mounting nuts before closing up for the night. See how fun that ends up being.... :-s
I bought several long socket head capscrews for the alternator pivot bolt. Being a round head, they will pass by the front frame member without having to jack the motor up 1/2" or so. If you want one, send me a PM with your address.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Ok, thank you, I will see how it goes, so far the big bolt still thinks it's part of the alternator. The nut is off and the alternator flops back and forth but the big bolt won't turn independently of the alternator.
 
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