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Discussion Starter #1
I rebuilt the master and a stuck right rear wheel cylinder and bled the brakes-on a test drive on a flat road, application of the brakes with hands off there is a slight pull to the right. Anyone have experience that a slight amount of air in one of the front calipers or lines might produce this effect?

Second item-are there instructions on how to replace the limit straps on the rear suspension? I found several discussions about these limit straps, but no specific instructions. My dog can hunt if a direction is provided.

Larry Benson
 

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I rebuilt the master and a stuck right rear wheel cylinder and bled the brakes-on a test drive on a flat road, application of the brakes with hands off there is a slight pull to the right. Anyone have experience that a slight amount of air in one of the front calipers or lines might produce this effect?

Second item-are there instructions on how to replace the limit straps on the rear suspension? I found several discussions about these limit straps, but no specific instructions. My dog can hunt if a direction is provided.

Larry Benson
The limiting straps are one of the easier jobs if the nuts aren't frozen or rusted.
1. Take a picture of the original configuration for reference
2. Remove the bolts holding the bump stops
3. Remove bolts/brackets holding the strap ends together
4. Install new strap with bump stop
5. Connect strap ends together with bolts/bracket.

Good time to replace the bump stops if they're worn. The bracket sets are available from Alfastop if yours are worn or rusty (https://www.alfastop.co.uk/cgi-bin/psProdDet.cgi?prod_code=1RS113). Some folks burn the strap out to remove tension on the bolts but I wouldn't do that on the car. Cut the strap and take it to a safe place if you're going to do that.

There's a thread here with bolt sizes if you need them: Rebound straps installed, but ????'s remain

Chuck
 

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I just installed my new ones from Tony’s inventory. I went by original pictures which faced the strap’s brackets toward the gas tank. The provided stainless screws to attach the new bump stops are very nice, but I needed two screw drivers; one long thin version to get them started because they are above the curved rubber stop and it’s not a straight shot in. The thin screw driver helps with that. After that, since the screw head is large and so is its slot, a long BFS is needed to crank them both up tightly.
Make sure you chase the threads in the chassis first. I spray a metal protector in the holes as well. I am getting my differential up and in this weekend, so it was much easier for me to have room to install those straps. Are you able to have something to lift your diff up to relieve the tension on your old straps?
 

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Are you able to have something to lift your diff up to relieve the tension on your old straps?
I always rely on my friend jack to lift the diff off the straps.

One other tip on limit straps: make sure the new ones are the right length. If the straps are too long, the springs can come loose and/or shocks get damaged. If too short, suspension travel is limited and the bump stop hardware will take a beating. You want the limit strap to engage just before the springs become loose.
 

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I always rely on my friend jack to lift the diff off the straps.
I was actually fishing for further info on whether Larry had it on a lift, or whether he was lying on the floor for this one like me... :unsure: Two full height threaded jacks would be nice too in lieu of buddies with a beer in one hand each.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Cars, yes. Women, not yet. About to spend what very little cash I have on women! I love double trouble.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Well, I have to rely on my good friend for over 60 years-he bought the car in Nashville and kept it for many years until 2007 when he gave it to me. He never mentioned an engine swap and the engine number fits the range in body numbers.....
 

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Discussion Starter #14
And AR 390277 spent time snoozing in a garage in Cheyenne, WY from 1975 to 1980 when my friend was working for the United States Geological Survey.
 

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Interesting comment as my 390224 has been in the garage in Wapiti Wyoming since 2000. The reason I asked about your engine is that mine has a 105 series head (which I understand was factory on some late models of the Veloce and is shown in the Veloce Parts Supplement) and may also have a 105 series block; but it has the 101 series Veloce sump and the DCO2 and DCO3 carbs. Whether or not the bottom end is original to the chassis, AR 390224 is not going to be snoozing much longer....
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Interesting. My engine number is AR 00121*01736, with 2 -40 DCOE2 carburetors numbered 20587 and 17489.

Ciao.
 
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