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Discussion Starter #1
Okay guys I need some help (desperately as this is holding me up).

Has anybody seriously repaired the bottom of their door(s)?. By this I mean replaced the bottom 2 inches for pretty much the full length of the door, not just a small patch repair.

I'm interested in how you did this. I've already repaired the lower hinge area and done this after making a jig to ensure the hinge plate is in the right place. Happy with this part. Now I have other doors that I can copy which are perfect in this area (actually the doors are perfect, unfortunately for a series I 1750 or earlier otherwise I would just use these for my car) but I cannot work out how to copy this area, cause I am so worried about getting it exactly right.

Now this weekend I have tried to make a plaster of paris mold of the bottom of the door but I do not want to end up with plaster inside of the door. Thoughts? I've made a wooden open topped box that I am going to put a large plastic bag in for the outside of the mold. I wanted to use Glad Wrap to protect the door and stop it getting inside, but unfortunately Glad Wrap will not stick to the metal door ...

  • So am I over reacting and this should be easy for me to make? :eek:
  • You guys buy repair sections from N ... thus can you please share who N is?
  • There are so many rust free doors sitting around in wreckers yards you can buy them for under $50 and thus replace them.
  • Or something else ...
Thanks
Pete
 

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Pete, Alfaholics do the doorskin, but I don't think I've ever seen repair sections for the bottom of the inner skin anywhere (and infact for anything - the really well supported stuff like mustangs you just buy a complete *new* door).
It makes me cringe (cos I have to repair the skins on my 66 Veloce), but maybe converting the good early doors to later spec is the answer? Or measure, build jigs and cut up the good early doors to save the later ones.

Ben
 

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Just buy a door skin. I got one from classic alfa for the duetto, looks amazing and as it's all off i can clean up the door frame far easier etc.

... no i've not had the courage to epoxy it back on yet (yes that's the plan), infact i haven't done anything except collect parts and tools. Threw a mean four year olds birthday today though.. Jumping castle and everything :)
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Mate,
Repairing the door skin does not worry me, it is repairing the door frame that is causing me sleep issues.

There is a groove for the seal to fit in and subtle curves everwhere ...
Pete
 

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Well, I guess the key question is...
Are you conserned that someone will look at the bottom of your door and see that it has been repaired.
If so, you need to source a replacement door with no rust.
If not, go ahead and patch it and replace the seal grove with a fresh piece.
 

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hi guys.

For anyone who doesnt knows PSk,he is a pretty fussy guy with high standards,which is a good thing.

Here is a door being repaired.
The door skin has been removed and is sitting on a purpose built jig.
The door frame will be sandblasted this week and the reapirs will be carried out.
All repairs are butt welded and file finished.
Ill keep you posted on how the doors progression is done.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Gee I can't wait to see this door repair process. Thanks :).

I do think I am being a chicken :eek:, and after even more thought I am going to expand my jig so that it will locate the seal groove, cause yes I am worried that somebody will look at the bottom of my doors AND more importantly I do not want leaks, wind noise or fit issues. I also do not want to have to add any filler at all to the door frame if possible.

I am going to abort my plaster of paris idea ... anybody want a a couple of bags :D
Pete
 

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Hi PSK.

Reapis are only done on Saturday morning from 5am to 10am,,so you will have to wait till next Monday

Robert
 

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Mate,
Repairing the door skin does not worry me, it is repairing the door frame that is causing me sleep issues.

There is a groove for the seal to fit in and subtle curves everwhere ...
Pete

Ah, my bad. I assumed you had a door skin issue. Rotten frame, looks like guilia_veloce is your saviour here... Good luck:)
 

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Hurtienne and others have a door bottom repair panel and I don't mean the outer skin. What it looks like exactly and if it will do what you want it to I don't know but might be worth a shot. Reasonable price anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Hurtienne and others have a door bottom repair panel and I don't mean the outer skin. What it looks like exactly and if it will do what you want it to I don't know but might be worth a shot. Reasonable price anyway.
Thanks so much. Found their site but the repair panel looks just like a simple pressing which would be perfect for my car if it was just a race car.

Their boot lid though has me interested :).
Pete
 

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Hi PSK

Just an update about the progress on the door.
 

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That is the RH door
Its been sent away to get blasted and 1 k primer
Will show it again when it comes back and the door skin put back on.
Now started the LH door
Skin didnt need removing
Door put on car to get the gaps correct before the section is welded on.
Then the door bottom made and butt welded and file finished
More progress pics when available

Robert
 

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Now that's a door jig I can relate to! Great idea to do it in metal, I wished I had planned out my trunk lid repair in the same fashion....it would have saved me a lot of time (and aggravation) in the long run, cause once the skin and frame are separated, all references to twist and contour have been lost (especially when the frame in turn needs to have major pieces replaced). It then becomes a trial and error process of refitting/removing/refitting over and over again (so it felt at least).

My only other comment to a process such as this is beware of reproduction door skins. I ended up not using a pair of repro door skins because of incorrect contours in the middle of one of them.
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
Robert,

Brilliant work. I should send you my original doors to have the frame rebuilt ... but I feel that would be cruel because they are really, I mean really rusty. Once I finish this car I might remove the skins and repair them as spares ... or to sell? or simply to maintain insanity ;)

The door that I have bought as a replacement is worse than the door you are repairing but I am really impressed with that corner repair.

1750GT,

Yes your comments regarding the boot lid is exactly what happened to me and I stopped on it because I lost the shape. I made a metal jig, but I did not locate enough of the frame to keep it's shape right. I might return and try again maybe making a jig to fit a borrowed boot lid and then heat and work my frame to fit this jig ... ?

Thanks all. I've been busy with the house (painting) and servicing my m/c (as it developed an oil leak) but will get back to the door soon.
Pete
 

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Hi PSK (pete)

Feel free to borrow a bootlid off me so you can make a frame.
Sorry about the above pictures,but the repairs look better than those pictures.
As far as doors are concerned,,no 2 doors are the same around the edges,and can have problems around the door to gaurd to sill areas.
As seen in the picture,door is trial fitted so the repair will suit the gaurd.
Same will go for the bottom edge of the door to the sill area.
Amazing what problems can be had if you are a few milimeters out.

Robert
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Robert,

Thanks for the other of the boot lid. BTW: Do you sell them?, and if so what would we be looking at cost wise please?

BTW: What is a 1967 GSGT 2 litre?.

Pete
 

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Pete, unlike Robert, given I can't weld (read have only tried to weld once or twice and extremely badly many years ago), I took the relatively easy option re my GTV.

Since like yours, my doors have nasty rust both in the frame and skins. I found a spare, unrusty door for $200, and just need to find another one. I went the same option for the bootlid also for $200 rather than trying to repair mine.

I, however, will keep them as spares, just in case one day I need them.

I do suspect though, sometime it will be necessary to learn how to weld as the flooors in mine, front cills, rear wheel arches etc also have rust, but for now I am totally impressed by the level of work all you guys who can weld and have access to such equipment, let alone a garage to work in can achieve.
 
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