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I have replaced the H4 headlamps with H1 headlamps in 2008 and did some documentation including the harnesses on it.
The document is in german language, perhaps google translator can help.
Summary: The connectors plus 10cm harness of two defective H4 headlamps plus the car-harness inclusive connectors of an 164-super for the H1 headlamps were connected together to create an adaptercable. This adapter is mounted between the H1 headlamps and the 164 harness for its H4 lamps.
Fotos are old and new headlamps and the adapter harness plus pin description.
It was heavy work, but it was worth it!
 

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That wiring shown in that file is sure a lot more complicated than what Steve and I did for ours. Just made up a couple of simple adapter looms for connecting the lamps to the existing wiring behind the headlights using a couple of bulb connectors bought off the web. Don't remember what I did for the diodes, would have to look at my wiring sketches.

Maybe I'm missing something because I cannot read German. All I know is the set works fine.
 

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Not to sound as this is going to sound Mr John but what are you hoping to accomplish? Are the US lights pretty bad? ciao chris
US Lights are horrible and the European are fantastic while looking sexy too. Using a good H1 bulb is key. But even a standard one works great. Always replace bulbs as they loose their effectiveness. I prefer the clean look of the OE harness plus they are slim and slide on to the back of the lamp cover.

I also have the level switch and connectors but have never hooked them up yet. Maybe this summer.
 

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Discussion Starter #25 (Edited)
The 164 was grounded today due to a leaking clutch slave cylinder, so I decided to install the right-side projector headlight.

Removing the Carello was pretty easy. Just disconnect the wires in back, remove 4 phillips head screws and a 8mm bolt, and loosen the relay rack. Slides right out.

Installing the right side projector is more problematic. The A/C hose needed to be push aside a bit due to the headlight tilt motor being in the way.

But the other problem is that the right side relay mount cannot be mounted in the original position due to the tilt motor again. It looks like I'll have to move the relay rack over about an inch, drill two new holes and fasten it down . . . or dismount the relays from the rack and just tie them down. Given that there's probably water incursion there and they were under the rack cover, letting them fend for themselves doesn't sound like a good idea. I'd be interested to know what others have done to solve that problem.

The left side headlight arrived a few days ago back in Rapid City, so I still have to clean it up and install the new connector. The left side looks like it'll be a little easier than the right side . . . not as cluttered in the headlight area. I'm going to fish for some rubber headlight gators that I can modify for the projectors rather than cut up my originals.

Also, I ran the headlight motor full up and parked. I hope that's the right setting for a static installation and aiming.

Anyway, here's some pics of the relay rack problem and the "look" between the Carello and projector.

When I get done, I'll do a writeup and try and consolidate all the tips, tricks, and technical stuff that goes into the conversion.
 

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Yeah, I avoided that by not having the motorized tilt stuff. I'd probably take it off and not use it. Not worth it to my mind. but then again, I installed the lights in the LS, not the S. Haven't checked but might be some subtle differences in fitment. Wouldn't mind a set for the S, but haven't run across any inexpensive sets, esp with that spacer bar that goes under the light.

If you mean by gators, the rubber shields around the headlights, I was lucky to have jc96 (a fine guy) find me a used set in Italy.
 

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On my 164L R/H relay bracket fit fine after installing Bosch headlight but on later VIN 164S I had to mount it with just one arm and postion it at an angle to clear healight motor - go figure.

I used some spare Series 1 Elma headlight covers i had on both cars.

I sold QS2 164L with Series 1 Elma lights and used modified Carello rubber covers on them.
 

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Discussion Starter #28 (Edited)
Another item is that the turn signal bulb socket for the projectors and the turn signal/parking light socket for the Carellos are different physical sizes.

The Carello socket is smaller diameter at the sealing o-ring (Dual filament 7507 bulb, turn signal and parking light).

The Bosch Projector socket is larger and holds the single element (turn signal only) P21W bulb.

That said, both sockets have three lugs. The Carello socket will fit into the Bosch Projector body, but slightly loose. I plan on getting a fatter sealing o-ring which should seal fine and has the bonus of being able to keep the OEM wire harness connector I pigtailed a wire from the yellow-black parking light wire to the yellow wire in the projector parking light, so both the Euro parking light in the high beam reflector and the US parking light in the turn signal reflector work.

Canting the relay rack isn't going to work. I'm going to just move it over about an 1.5 inches.
 

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" I plan on getting a fatter sealing o-ring which should seal fine and has the bonus of being able to keep the OEM wire harness connector I pigtailed a wire from the yellow-black parking light wire to the yellow wire in the projector parking light, so both the Euro parking light in the high beam reflector and the US parking light in the turn signal reflector work"

Yup, that's what I did as well.
 

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I also keep the dual element Carello sockets with 1157 bulbs to keep amber parking lights and turn signals. I also kept the city light bulb inside high beam side of Bosch lights.
 

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thank you Mr Del. ciao jc
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Got my left Projector from Germany, but it's missing the rear cover to the projector bulb. I remember seeing a thread somewhere that there is a redneck special substitute available at the grocery store, but now can't find the thread. Anybody remember?

Or, if anyone has a spare/derelict spare cover, I'm interested.
 

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Got my left Projector from Germany, but it's missing the rear cover to the projector bulb. I remember seeing a thread somewhere that there is a redneck special substitute available at the grocery store, but now can't find the thread. Anybody remember?

Or, if anyone has a spare/derelict spare cover, I'm interested.
Maybe I got lucky with this search...
http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/1223022-post2.html
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Excellent. Thanks. I'm going to Madrid at the end of the month. I think I'll pick up some Alfa parts at the grocery store.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
Here's a pic of what I did. If you forget which way the diode goes, just reverse the leads if the lights don't work as expected. I used little piggyback connectors to tap the fuses. Should be avail at a good auto store or electronics store. This method is non-invasive, requires no splices, and can be removed in seconds.

Remember, you're using a low capacity diode because if hooked up correctly, the diode only needs to handle the current necessary to trip the low beam relays. The low beams' relays are after the fuses and the hi beams' are before the fuses. Therefore full current for the high beams runs through the fuse box fuses.

You want the diode to allow current from the high beams to the low beams' relays. If the diode gets warm/hot when you plug it in, it's NOT hooked up correctly and you're likely running full hi beam operating current through it. Not good, especially for the stalk switch contacts that aren't designed to handle that kind of amperage.
 

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If the high and low beams each have separate fuses for each side of the car, do you need to install two jumpers?

Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #39
No, because that low beam fuse energizes both left and right low beam relays.
 

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I picked up a pair of Bosch projectors off the junkyard car listed in another thread. It looks they are wired up to fit a US model, but the side gaskets have completely disintegrated. Wondering if anyone has a makeshift solution for replacing those or if they are even essential. Looks like they are currently only available if you buy a new pair.
 
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