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Discussion Starter #1
On my S3, how big a project is it to remove the fuel rail and injectors as a unit?
Do the pintels normally come out with the injectors?
If they stay behind, is it difficult to remove them from the head?
Anybody have a recommendation for a shop to service the injectors?
 

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But Mad North-Northwest
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It wasn't very difficult. I think the service manual instructions (on the S4 at least) said to disconnect the coolant hose at the throttle, but I didn't need to do that at all to get it out, which made it a lot easier since I didn't need to mess with the cooling system.

The injectors come out in one piece. There are little plastic caps that the injectors seat in that sit in the injector holes (don't loose those) that you can just pull out afterwards.
 

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Cruzinperformance.com did mine for around $100.
You get a flow report and all new hoses on the injectors when they come back to you.
Highly recommend them based on my experiences.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Pantera, thanks for that...i will be in touch with them. Did you send the whole assembly; fuel rail and all, and did they put it back together for you?
If you assembled it, where did you get the proper hose clamps?
 

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I have also had good service from Cruizin Performance. I sent just the four injectors. I replaced the hoses myself. Save the cup shaped washers (#3 'bushing') - put those on the fuel rail & injectors then the short hoses. Note that the correct ID is 7.5mm (1/4" is too small, 5/16" is too large). A recent post here mentioned that the OD is also an important factor - if too large the hose doesn't fit into the cup shaped washer fully and this can lead to a leak. If you wish to use clamps instead buy some FI clamps - they wrap fully around the hose for a proper seal without cutting into the hose. But I have had no leaks with the original cup washers in either our Spider or GTV6.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks Eric, so the cup shaped washers hold the hoses to the rail? Nothing needs to be crimped?
 

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I second what Eric says about clamps. I removed the old hoses from my injectors and let Cruzin put on new ones. Then I fit them onto the rail with the old washers.
I sometimes have to burn the old hoses off of the fuel rail with a propane torch. Sounds dangerous but it works. Just blow some air through it first to get the gas and fumes out.
 

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...so the cup shaped washers hold the hoses to the rail? Nothing needs to be crimped?
No crimps. The cup washer simply fits over the ends of the hose to keep them from ballooning out. Combined with the correct ID/OD the hoses have been leak free.

I sometimes have to burn the old hoses off of the fuel rail with a propane torch. Sounds dangerous but it works. Just blow some air through it first to get the gas and fumes out.
The Alfa shop manual says to use a soldering iron (translated as a 'welder') to melt through the old hoses and release their grip on the hose barbs. Don't use a knife to slice through the hoses - if you nick the hose barbs this could be the source of a leak.

Remember to put the cup washer on before the hose. Otherwise the hose barbs grip so tight you'll have to cut off the new hose and start over. DAMHIK
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Removing fuel rail....How does one get to the bottom of the shock mount supporting the fuel rail without removing the whole induction system? The nut on the top of the mount is square and welded in place. Would have been so much more doable if the top of the mount had a regular nut with a lock washer! I hope to hell that I don't have to remove the induction manifold AGAIN! I recently had it off to replace the starter! What a nightmare!
 

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Removing fuel rail....How does one get to the bottom of the shock mount supporting the fuel rail without removing the whole induction system? The nut on the top of the mount is square and welded in place. Would have been so much more doable if the top of the mount had a regular nut with a lock washer! I hope to hell that I don't have to remove the induction manifold AGAIN! I recently had it off to replace the starter! What a nightmare!
You do not have to remove the intake manifold, but you do need to move the plenum out of the way.

First, disconnect battery, as you will be working near the starter with metal wrenches.

After removing the big air tubes across the top of the engine, what I did was to remove the coolant overflow bottle and windshield washer fluid bottle, and then from underneath remove the bolt that attaches the plenum support strut to the intake manifold. If it is attached to a different bolt, remove the ground strap that goes from the plenum to the intake manifold. Remove the nut on the bottom of the fuel rail shock support.

Remove the cold-start injector from the plenum, unplug the TPS connector, and disconnect the throttle linkage at the throttle body (inlet of plenum). (Remove any vacuum hoses that will restrict movement). Then loosen the hose clamps on one side of the short hoses between the plenum and the intake manifold.

Once you have all of that done, you should be able to rotate the intake plenum towards the right-side of the car. (You might need to loosen the bolt that attaches the bottom of the plenum-support strut to the motor mount -- you don't need to remove the bolt). Move the plenum as far as possible to the right. Then remove the 8 bolts that hold the injectors in place as well as the electrical connectors.

Relieve fuel pressure in the line (I do this in the trunk by removing the hose between the fuel sender and the hard line). (Wear eye protection because fuel may spray out.)

Then, disconnect the fuel line entering the fuel rail and the return fuel line below the fuel pressure regulator. At this point, you should be able to remove the fuel rail with the hoses and injectors as a whole. Replace hoses (and I suggest using appropriate fuel-injector hose clamps).

Replacement is the opposite.
 

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If you loose the cup/washers, have them 3D printed out. I have a set home for when I take mine apart. I think there's a topic for 3D printing with the correct sizes and maybe even a CAD model.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Frankly, I was hoping (praying) to get the injectors and fuel rail out WITHOUT removing the intake plenum! Can one get to the nut under the fuel rail bracket by removing only the coolant overflow tank? I don't think I can face taking the whole mess apart again so soon after replacing the starter!
 

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Can one get to the nut under the fuel rail bracket....
When I replaced my engine mounts, I got at that nut that secures the fuel rail rubber to the stay bar, from underneath the car....
a long 1/4" drive extension (60-80cm long) with a U-joint end, taped up, so it can move some as you try to position the 10mm socket onto the nut, but doesn't flop all over the place.
Getting it back on was also fun...
 

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Frankly, I was hoping (praying) to get the injectors and fuel rail out WITHOUT removing the intake plenum! Can one get to the nut under the fuel rail bracket by removing only the coolant overflow tank?
There is one nut to remove - you can reach it by removing the coolant reservoir (Series 3/L-jetronic Spiders) and doing it by feel. Here is a picture showing the underside of the plenum.
 

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