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Discussion Starter #1
I came across an aborted restoration project of a '75 Spider 2000. The car had been stripped down to the bone with the body being sand-blasted and painted. The rest of the parts were either in boxes or scattered around the country at various shops to rebuild this, service that, overhaul this etc etc. After 6 months of sweet and hard miles, I managed to track down all the bits and pieces including the paperwork. Now the fun can start!

The vision is to restore the car to the absolute original condition - and THIS is the reason why I decided to start this thread - coz I am gonna need a loooooota help ;) I'm gonna try and keep my posts structured for easy reading. Will be asking questions at the end that I hope will get some answers.

First things first - this is the project looks like at the moment (see pic).

Build diary so far:
1. Re-furbished steering box and idler arm
2. Have sourced new replacements for a number of parts:
- Break calipers
- Break disks
- Master/slave silinders
- Break and clutch boosters
- Uprights
- Suspension
- Steering arms and bushes
- Engine has been rebuilt
- Coil springs, spring pans, shocks etc
- etc
3. Busy fitting the front suspension parts

Blockers:
- I've ordered new SKF wheel bearing kits from France - and since I'm living in South Africa it will take 2 weeks :-(

Questions:
- I've decided to rubber coat the under carriage to prevent rust to the chassis and bodywork. I've done the insides of the left front fender already, but are now wondering if I am not making a mistake. At car shows one don't often see rubber coating on the under sides, people tend to paint it the color of the car and keep it nice and clean. Opinions/suggestions?

Till next time
 

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If this is a Kamm tail car, I have some NOS rear number plate lights (2 per car) and NOS front indicator lenses (either clear/orange or clear/clear). Might also have some new Carello RHD headlights too. Maybe some instruments as well. Also some mechanical and electrical items shared with other 105 cars.

If this sounds like the kind of thing you might need, send me an email directly by clicking on my username and selecting that option.

Cheers,

Alex.

PS: Regarding the rubber coating, that sounds like the sort of thing which might be useful if you're going to be driving it along bad roads. I have a feeling that poor underbody protection from the factory was taken on the grounds of cost, so it depends how 'original' you want to be. You could also use 3M underbody 'schutz' which is a flexible covering and which can be painted over in body colour if you want. This coating is used on e.g. modern Mercedes Benz cars, and it's good stuff, but it's best applied using a compressed air gun for even coverage.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hi Alex,

(You are out of space for leaving pm's)

Thanks for your post - yes it is the kamm tail shape. I am interested in front indicator lenses (left and right) as well as both headlights. Do you have the taillight lenses too? My numberplate lights are in good nic, so don't need those.

Price?
 

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BoesmannBB,

I have noticed on the floor of your shop that you have two inner door handles the same shape. The driver door should be different to the passenger door handle. Looks like you have two passenger door handles.

I am a the process of removing the rubber coating from around the wheels archers, I don't have it anywhere else. I am removing it to check for rust, this will get respray again with rubber.

Does your car have back seats? just wondering if South Africa got them.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Rich - I'm impressed with your good eye sight/experience. I have indeed two similar inside door handles. In fact, the ones that came with the car is not consistant with the original specs, so I'll be hunting for two replacements when I get to the interior. The car does have a back seat with a padded leather trim for the back support - not sure how 4 people would fit in this car anyways - maybe just in Italy ;)

In terms of the build - i've spent the last two days under the car cleaning up the chassis with a rotating copper wire brush. I was surprised to see the underside in pretty good nic and relatively rust free. There appears to be traces of some kind of protective layer painted under the floor pans. The protective layer appeared to be white-ish in color and the whole of the underside have been painted the same color as the bodywork - red. The wheel arches are, like Rich's car, rubber coated and also painted red. I'll also be stripping this down to the bare metal this week before priming starts. I'm considering rubber coating the under carriage and wheel arches with a polyurethane coating then painting it red. Should look much cleaner at the end.

For those interested, I've discovered a Duram product marketed locally as Durabak. This appears to be an extremely tough polyurethane coating used for lining pickup load bins etc: http://www.duram.co.za/File_Uploads/docs/DurabakDS160207.pdf
 

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All this experience is from turning a USA Alfa to a Euro Alfa as it should be;). The passenger door handle can be swapped from right to left with no problems, expect that you have to weld and new bracket like i did. The driver door handle can also be swapped between doors, but on my car the factory only had welded nuts for the US driver door, so i will have to make some nuts and glue them with J.B Weld this weekend. The driver door hand is made up of three parts, the screw size is 4mm X 0.7 pitch and the length i don't know this is why you see two different lengths in the picture, both are stainless steel so that i can cut them if I have to. The correct screw type is a Raised Countersunk Phillips screw, very hard to get in Australia, so make sure you don't lose any of your screws.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Build diary so far:
Decided to abort the suspension installation as I was unhappy with the work done on the chassis (as per my previous post) by the previous guy. So, I’ve stripped the car back to the bare shell (am sure some of you have been there) and have cleaned up the chassis and engine bay thorougly. With the engine bay sanded down and primed it is time to paint the chassis. It requires a Duram primer specifically for the Durabak rubber coat. Once all this is done I’ll paint the engine bay and chassis red – can’t wait!

Meanwhile I’ve collected a set of MOMO Vegas ;-) from Wim. They seem in pretty good condition, but have decided to have them refurbished anyways since the rest of the car will be practically brand new. I decided to go for the two-tone look, polished alu lips with dark charcoal insides. The Mags Shop couldn’t help me with chrome painting the plastic centre caps, so I decided to take this upon myself. I want to get it to a silimar finish as the polished sides of the rims would have, and this is where I need some help...


Questions:
I’ve come across a German product called “Flashchrome”. But at R9000 ($1100) per liter I have better things to spend my money on. I believe some guys have achieved relative success with Duplicolor Chrome aerosol spray paint... I also hear it is quite tricky to apply this paint for that perfect finish and as the only finish is not very durable. What I require is a “polished aluminium” look rather than chrome and believe that a few coats of Duplicolor Chrome and finished with a layer or two of clear lacquer has the perfect finish – the clear coat ensuring longevity and it also takes of the chrome’s edge. What would be the best preparation process on my (very fragile) plastic caps? Was thinking of roughing up the plastic with very fine sand paper (800 grid), then prime, then flat again with 800 (perhaps even little finer), then two coats of the Duplicolor and finish it with a few layers clear laquer.

Thoughts?
 

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Can't help with the paint question as I have had mixed results when I've attempted to use chrome effect paint. However, your reference to polished aluminium made me wonder if you had access to a lathe? Several hours turning down some alloy blanks might work and look wonderful, if you have the skill and time, or the $$!
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
August update

Time for another update.... Have made some good progress over the last few days/weeks:

1. My wheel bearings arrived at last

2. Prepped the entire car before painting (lots and lotsa masking work!!!) and was glad I did as applying the rubber coat with the Schultz gun is one messy business, especially since the product I used contains small rubber pellets which tend to bounce off the surface if it's not sticky enough.

prepped.jpg

3. Cleaned up, primed, rubber coated and spray painted the chassis - very happy with the results

chassis.jpg

arch.jpg

4. Sanded primed and repainted the engine bay and it's looking good too

Bay.jpg

5. I got my wheels back from the wheel shop!! As it turns out I have the 2nd series MOMO Vega's with the plastic centre logo caps. After much deliberation I decided to paint them dark gun-metal instead of "chrome" (good choice I hear some of you say). Despite lots of research it appears that chrome paint just isn't chrome. So I got the outer lips polished and painted the rest - could have been a tad darker, but think it came out really nice.

momo.jpg

6. Been researching what to do with the engine and how it should look (as per my other, now abandoned post) and have seen some really really good looking engines, and some, let me say less good looking ones. Haven't quite figured out what to do... but the moment I do I'll share some thoughts.

7. Have ordered some indicator lenses from the UK - hoping to get it this weekend.

Blockers:
- time... I wanna do it all and I wanna do it now

Next steps:
1. Assemble suspension
2. Differential has been checked out and serviced, and needs some cleaning up/painting.
3. Want to get the propshaft balanced and painted too.
 
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