I contacted Wes Ingram to see where I am in line. Looks like at least two more months.
Given that I've got to get the gear shifter out with the transmission, I'll need to pull the console apart, which means I'll take the seats out. A car requires an order of magnitude more space to store in pieces than when it's together. So organizing parts storage goes to the top of the list.
The interior needs a full refurb, other than the front seats that I had redone 6-7 years ago. Nasty speaker holes in the door cards, so those will need to be replaced. All the wood veneer is toast (I'm toying with the thought of an ebony veneer instead of the traditional, it'll be easy to change back if we want to depersonalize the car), new seat belts. The headliner has the typical glue stains. I'll change the dew wipes on the windows, as well as some seals. The doors currently shut very nicely, with none of the problems that folks have with new door seals. I'll avoid changing those unless they simply need to be done to seal the car. I don't expect that the car will see rain for the rest of it's life.
Take gear knob off and lever will pull through permitting the gearbox removal ... I think. It was 35 years ago that we removed my cars gearbox on a hoist to fix the clutch. I do not remember having to touch the interior
Why not remove the gear shift lever? You might have to lift up the console to get at the cross-bolt, but you might also be able to reach up from under the car to loosen it. Once you've got the cross bolt pulled, the handle just pulls straight up and no longer hinders the power-unit removal.
My second Alfa was a 1965 Sprint GT. A lovely car that suffered a cursed existence while in my care.
I don’t remember it having a bad clutch, but for some reason I decided to put in a new one. This was in 1973, and I had more bravado than experience.
The shop manual instructed me to remove the trans by “tilting conveniently”, accompanied by a picture of a smiling young man, standing in a spotless white smock, balancing a half extracted trans on his delicate fingertips. The car was overhead on a lift.
Among other things, I learned that “tilting conveniently” meant “disconnect all motor mounts, remove the fan and radiator, and hoist the front of the engine as high as constraints allow.”
I was ultimately successful in replacing the clutch and transmission, working from the floor under a jacked-up GT. During the reinsertion of the trans first-motion shaft I was ever mindful of the cautions to avoid hanging the trans in the clutch disc lest the disc be damaged, forcing a do-over.
I was 22, and still carried the residual benefits of Texas High School Football weight training. Even there, I’d like to inspect the fingers on that pretty-boy in the manual. Maybe it was a prototype, all-magnesium gearbox with no internals and a fake-plastic input and output shaft?
Realizing that a trans-extraction required the engine to be 90% disconnected anyway, I decided to never again bother with a halfway job. Of course, an early 105 and 102 don’t have much beyond the motor mounts, a couple of hoses, and a very few wires in the way. Pulling and replacing an S3 engine involves a lot more connectivication. Still..... trying to emulate the strength and stupidity of a 22 year-old is a fool’s errand.
Well my father's workshop, and I (I say this because I didn't work there but the workshop had 3 mechanics), did the clutch on my 1750 no issues with removing just the gearbox. No engines mounts were touched, no radiator removed, etc. And it was not considered difficult.
It is a very common job back in those days. Triumph 2000/2500s, heck all cars, are just as hard. My father had a very long extension for Triumphs so you could undo the top bolts.
So I think we are getting into a discussion about professionals versus us amateurs.
Drivetrain is out. Snatched as an engine/transmission combo instead of individually. Back end of the car as high in the air as the stands allowed, front on its tires. Two of us, I applaud anyone that does it alone.
Missed another Christmas, huh? Got a whole year of quarantine ahead, so it's a sure bet this time!
With a good hoist and tilter, doing a 105/115/102 engine-out alone isn't really a big deal. The only hard part are what we might call the "concrete floor burpies".
A burpie is a Crossfit gym maneuver in which one throws themself prostrate on the floor, face down, then hops up, fully extended, jumping upward and clapping hands above your head. Repeat 50 times. Essentially the same exercise during a solo extraction or insertion. At least twice I've convinced my son to do the flat-on-the-floor job while I diddle with bolts and nuts from the top.
Hang in there, buddy. I look forward to the driving result.
I continued spraying every fastener on the engine and in the engine bay with penetrating fluid. I'm working on a work plan, basically taking everything on as a system, and finishing that system, before jumping over to something else. I'm not really known for the focus and discipline necessary to make that successful, but there is always room for self-improvement. I did pick up a 2021 "planner", just for this project, in an attempt to provide some form to the project. Since the first, I have 7.5 hours into the job.
I've thought about kicking off a new thread on the GTV part of the forum to chronicle this year. We're at 511 posts, and over 99K views here and it's become a bit of a challenge to read through the whole thing.
I thought I showed the process of rejuvenating the paint with the Meguiar's #7 rub down. Mike Phillips at Autogeek has created both a written set of directions on their forum and a youtube video. I've used the process several time when trying to wake up old oxidized single stage paint. It is not something you do on base coat/clear coat.
This has been an on-again/off-again project for way too many years. I need to spend some time just finding and inventorying all the accumulated parts.
While waiting for engine parts, I'll spend the intervening time replacing/rehabbing the hydraulic systems. I think I have all the parts for the brakes, including the lines. The clutch will require the purchase of just about everything.
Woohoo, Wes gave me a call and said that we are less than 30 days out.
So, I'm thinking about just resealing the engine. Front and rear mains, valve cover gasket, rear gasket for the u shaped tin above the crankshaft. I'm half way thinking about popping open the oil pan and checking the bearings, but the other half whispers "it doesn't leak and it wasn't a problem when you fired it up before..."
This car will primarily used by the Lovely Donna, also known by my insurance agent as "Donna Andretti." So we will not be looking at a performance build, just a reliable, well sealed engine. I will run a leak down test before final decisions are made.
I'll be calling Larry Jr. about giving the transmission a once over. I don't know that there are any problems there (having never driven the car) but it's out right now and I don't want to put it back in and find problems. Flywheel and clutch looked **** good.
I purchased a new guibo for the driveshaft when I purchased the car...16 years ago. I'm thinking that a prudent man would go ahead and get a new one. Rubber degrades as time goes by, regardless of use.
Again, the goals have changed over the life of this project and we are looking for a reliable, competent mechanical build. Aesthetics are a tertiary consideration at best.
Oh, my son purchased me an Eastwood paintless dent removal set of tools for Christmas. I think I'll play with that to see if I can get some of the many box stacking dents out of the sheet metal. Nothing to lose.