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Blower Motor

1440 Views 7 Replies 6 Participants Last post by  Michael Smith
has anyone had to replace the blower fan, the one on the inside of the cabin for heating and cooling?

mine works intermittently and sounds funny when it does work, the other day I actually smelled a little electrical fumes...
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The hvac fan motor is in the engine bay behind the false firewall on the driver's side. First of all I would suggest trying to lube the exposed motor shaft bushing on the driver's side of the motor. That exposed bushing gets dirt in it, runs dry, and eventually either lets the shaft scream or starts to seize up, causing the motor to get hot, thus the smells. That exposed bushing is the biggest problem with this el cheapo Bosch motor. It must be lubed with 3 in 1 oil or engine oil now and then. I do it whenever I lube the hood and door hinges. That might save it for quite a while.

But yes, to answer your question, that motor has been replaced in quite a few 164s. Use the identical motor from the Saab 9000 for half the price, about $60 or so.


One note: when I replaced the motor in my 91S with the Saab motor, for some reason the plug wiring polarity was reversed, and took a while to figure that out.

Almost all remove the entire fan/motor housing to replace the motor, while I have seen where someone used a Dremel to cut open the black plastic housing to lift out the fan/motor assy, gluing the housing back together again with silicone. Having removed the assy either way, you then have to change the fan itself to the new motor. This requires being careful, as it can be broken.

I think Steve shows a fan/motor replacement procedure in his "tips". Otherwise, take a look at the Fiat parts eper


on line for a display of where these things are located, and the workshop manual for some instructions.
I just got finished replacing the blower motor in Kevins car. I got a Saab motor for $68.
Steve's write up is pretty good.

The only thing I might add to the initial electrical section, before the battery is disconnected...It's easier to get the bolt out of the windshield wiper mechanism, the one that's in the fire wall to the left (driver's side) of the wiper motor, if the mechanism is not in the rest position. So, turn the wipers on with the stalk and off with the key to get the mechanism in the correct position to remove the bolt. Then turn the key back on and get the wipers in the rest position. The wiper assembly can't be easily removed unless the wipers are in rest.

However, before you got to all that effort, make sure you haven't got a cracked fuse that makes contact intermittently.
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re blower motor.

Yes, removal is a pain in the chops. If oiling the exposed shaft does not help and there are no fuse issues, then removal may be the only option. if you do smell "burnt" electrical contacts, use caution as overheating brushes and shaft may cause the plastics to warp and the new motor may not sit properly.
if removing is a must, be sure to have 2 loooong, flat-blade screwdrivers to unlock the side tabs (one on either side) holding the housing to the firewall. Just put into place, twist gently and try to pull out the housing. One of my tabs broke and gluing it back together was a nuisance.
Mind you, once out, it's easy to clean all of the leaves and gunk that collects under there and also check for rust as the sunroof drain lines drain into the cavity and down a shaft in the center, under the housing. I have added a length of clear tubing and have them end in the shaft to prevent water from splashing around during heavy rain as there are a number of connectors in the vicinity.
I had to remove my air-con box as I could not hoist it out of the way enough but you may have better luck.
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Thanks, it is not clear to me what the "exposed" shaft is. is it the nub on the driver side of the plastic housing that looks like it has a plastic cross-hair over it? I assume that I need to squirt some oil in there...

also, just to service the fan, so I need to drain the coolant?
I didn't drain coolant when I did Kevins fan, but it's probably easier if you do. It also depends if someone has been in there before you and which way they put the hose clamps on the heater hoses at the heater core. Yes, clearance is that tight. If those hose clamps were put on facing the passenger side, your in for a struggle and possibly doing damage to the blower box. They should be installed facing the drivers side.
I'm fortunate, no A/C so easier access. In my experience no need to remove wiper arm assy or false fire wall, just loosen it all. No need - again in my case - to drain coolant. I used a motor from Summit by Bosch and changed the skwirrel cage. Think it was 70 bucks or so. Do a search and there's some pics of the process. Only thing I didn't that in hindsight I would have? Change the heater core as well since I was right there. No problems but I should have. ciao jc
Thanks, it is not clear to me what the "exposed" shaft is. is it the nub on the driver side of the plastic housing that looks like it has a plastic cross-hair over it? I assume that I need to squirt some oil in there...

also, just to service the fan, so I need to drain the coolant?
Correct but oiling the end of the shaft only works sometimes and not for long. I think the failure mode is rust from the retaining spring nut gets into the sleeve bearing holding up the end of the motor shaft and wears it so it squeaks.

I used the equivalent motor part from SAAB and the squirrel cage fan can be transferred if it hasn't seized to the shaft. It can take a while to free up the fan cage so be patient as these are NLA as I understand things.
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