Alfa Romeo Forums banner

21 - 28 of 28 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
131 Posts
I've been trying something the last few times I've fitted a new master cylinder and it worked REALLY well on my 90, I just fill the reservoir with fluid and let the car sit for a week. Pretty much self bleeds.
As for your current problems, try tapping the calipers with a screwdriver handle as you bleed them, it seems to dislodge any air bubbles clinging to the passages etc.
I also don't pressure bleed, never seen a need to. I jut use a one man bleeder, a simple piece of hose with a one way valve.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
386 Posts
Thanks for all the good advice. I have ordered speed bleeders and will work on the MC in the mean time. Forcing fluid through the MC backwards makes sense. On my floor pedal car the feeds from the reservior are on the top and the outputs on the side so reversing the flow should get more air out. Any need to move the MC piston during the process? Thx TD
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,132 Posts
. . . . Any need to move the MC piston during the process? . . . .
You're referring to the Cardone syringe method? Then, no. Did you see the link on their pdf to the instructional video? Here is is again.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
386 Posts
I watched all three videos thanks, very informative. It is the thought of little bubbles hanging out in the return spring that make me want to press the pedal and squeeze them out.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
558 Posts
Re speedbleeders - one caveat is that they are useless if you have any significant air in your system, they won't open when you press the pedal. So for example if you're filling/bleeding a system that's empty, don't even try to bleed with speedbleeders, just use normal bleedscrews. If you want to remove the normal bleedscrews and insert the speedbleeders after the system is filled and bled, fine - but I didn't bother. After trying various different methods over the years I find that normal bleed screws along with a pressure bleeder works quite fine as a setup.
my 2 cents
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,816 Posts
After many aggravating brake bleeding sessions with my gtv and spiders I finaly found what works for me. Speedbleeders help if you don't have any other help but the trick I've found is to only depress the pedal with a very short quick stroke--not all the way down. Not sure why this works but it could be with a full stroke you get to portions of the cyclinder where it's not suppose to go.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,077 Posts
Hello from the future! Cars are not hovering yet. I'm returning to this old thread because I am having very similar problems and have tried identical remedies to the OP. Wondering if we can get a post-mortem or any further brainpower to this problem?

I also wonder what the symptoms of a bad master cylinder or air leak somewhere in the system would be? I would presume that any bad connection throughout that could suck in air would also push out fluid and therefore be somewhat obvious. How about a bad master, how would that manifest itself?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,314 Posts
I don't think anybody mentioned has this so I will. The best way to bleed brakes is the old school way with someone in the car gingerly depressing the brake pedal while you open and close the bleeder at the caliper. Doing this gives you far better control over the process than you can ever get with a "one-man" kit. If all else fails, find a friend or a supportive and patient wife/partner/child to assist and your chances of a successful brake bleed will go up exponentially.
 
  • Like
Reactions: alfaparticle
21 - 28 of 28 Posts
Top