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Discussion Starter #1
Hi,

My big bottom engine mount is shot and have a new one to put in but how? Some people say the subframe needs to be dropped, others say a new one can be squeezed in just by 'upping' the engine via a support under the sump.

Any suggestions?

Thanks :)

164 3.0 24v 1995
 

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Front or rear mount? Do a search for replacment procedure for 12v it is posted. Should work for 24v.
 

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Rear mount replacement

Richard, I did this job a few months ago...I did both, raised engine and lowered frame. Make sure you remove front motor mount nut, and top motor mount also when lifting engine. Dirty, oily, PIA job. Take you time and good luck.
Regards,
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks Mike,

Can I ask what you used to undo the big nut on the top of the big mount? Mine seems locked on solid. Are there any lock pins?

Richard
 

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Air rachet

Richard, I used an air rachet on that nut, now that you mention it.
Couldn't get a socket to turn enough. Tight space,but easy off and on with the power tool.
Good luck.
 

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Coincedince, I am doing one right now, ratchet with extension from the top or spanner if attacking it from the wheel arch, no it's just a nut, they get tight sometimes, biggest problem going in from the wheel arch is getting enough leverage for the initial crack, small bolts are just as hard and always caked, if not buried in grease and dirt
 

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I think you will find top nut is 17mm and only one of bottom three is 13mm I think the other two are 14-15mm. I think there is 16mm ones on front mount bolts though maybe the only 16mm bolt heads on the car. I believe I had to use a 5/8" socket on them.

Once you have them removed and upper dog bone disconnected you should be able to jack up rear of engine using board under rear of pan just enough to slide old mount forward and out.

You should probably at least loosen front mount 17mm nut as much as possible without taking it all the way off to prevent tearing front mount or getting engine out of alignment so it is hard to drop back onto new rear mount stud.

Are you sure your front mount is OK as it is usually the one to go bad. rear ones look bad from oil soaking but usually do not fail completely.

If you have to change front one then, yes you need to lower subframe while jacking engine up.
 

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I am doing so. Unscrew the maximum, but not until the end of the subframe bolts. Pushes the engine forward as possible with the help of the top fastening.
Unscrew the nut on the top 17. The bolts 13 and 16 to unscrew from the right wheel and a second bolt 16 from under the engine. The remaining engine mount unscrewed from the engine subframe and slightly raised. On the new mount very long stud M10, trim the excess length.
This mount can be used as the front right. It must be disassembled and cut a piece of the bottom of the cup.

 

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Discussion Starter #11
I am doing so. Unscrew the maximum, but not until the end of the subframe bolts. Pushes the engine forward as possible with the help of the top fastening.
Unscrew the nut on the top 17. The bolts 13 and 16 to unscrew from the right wheel and a second bolt 16 from under the engine. The remaining engine mount unscrewed from the engine subframe and slightly raised. On the new mount very long stud M10, trim the excess length.
This mount can be used as the front right. It must be disassembled and cut a piece of the bottom of the cup.

Very interesting, thanks.

Richard
 
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