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Taping up the ribbing area I want to glass, with some overlap. Aluminum foil tape, and wax will allow a release from the oem hood. If any one is interested, I can make a glass hood for your car, I have two molds, one for my car with extra engine clearence. And a mold for a oem look. Will save you about 35 pounds off a steel hood, also doing the boot later.
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Ready to lay fiberglass tommorow. Just wax the form a couple times, to mark the rear latch bolt assembly I used four wooden dowles and to mark the 2 on each side for hood aliment, some nylon spacers, this will allow me to clean up the area of fiberglass. They will be reinforced by carbon and Kevlar Matt cloth. Will be making 2 plates with studs for the front and a plate to mount the hood stricker.
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Exhaust down tube system, cut and ready to weld, after I cut the old tubes off the flangei need more room, as they sit now,they will be touching the upper 'A ' mount, I even trimmed away the welded yucky flange, like likes to cut fingers. New down tube should allow me the room I need.
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2 layers of wax, the 1 layer of fiberglass cloth, and what I had leftover cloth, added the rest to the front hinge area, the layer of fiberglass chopped Matt, added extra to the side ribs,,, hinge
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areas and other important ridge areas, let cure for a day, then remove, add steel plates for the studs and threaded parts. Will add aluminum plate to the glass( under the parts you see, f
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or strength. And layer of carbon fiber to stress areas
 

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This will be glued to the hood top. Plan to use a glue like they use to glue windshields in. To bond each together
 

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Now make the front guards and doors in fiberglass :p. What a weapon your very light car would be!
Pete
 

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more glass work today, going to stiffen the ribbing, moday get alumiumn stock to make the hindge and stricker mounts
 

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Lots of clamps, the resin was not kicking over, too cold, so I put a coat of wax on the glass work, and plastic wrap to seal the resin, the resin cures faster with no air.
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I will be using a fuel pump assembly from a 2002 Ford escape, with a small modifications it will fit in my Alfa Romeo spider tank, this will feed the car, and let me know fuel level. The escape tank is the same depth.and it is cheaper than a oem system.
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Cool.

But it still doesn't fit because it is taller, so you either lower it in the chassis, move it back or ruin the bonnet.

I assume you have already installed it as low as possible (otherwise shame on you :)) so I still vote for moving it further back. Alfa Romeo installed their engine IMO too far forward and moving your replacement engine back WILL improve on what Alfa Romeo engineers did.

Power with handling is so much better than power without handling. Please install that engine as low and far back as possible :D.

If I was not hell bent on restoring my 1750GTV to original, I would install a supercharger on the engine like Alfa Romeo did with the (real) 8c's and use the timing chain to drive the supercharger so it looked factory (yes I would move the idler sprocket to the inlet side of the engine ... and yes I would have to make a new timing chain cover, etc.) and I would move the engine way back in the engine bay to considerably improve the handling of a 105 series car. They have way too much weight on their front wheels and it actually annoys me when you look in the engine bay of a 105 that Alfa Romeo did not install the engine as far back as they could ... what the heck were they thinking? Just because the Berlina had the engine there for passenger space reasons does not mean the sportier models could not have had a better engine placement with a different sump or cross member.
Pete
I would love to lower the engine more, but steering linkage gets in the way
 
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