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weld the stripped hole, then timesert it? is that possable? i know when you weld steel, the weld itself is stronger than the steel
 

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Discussion Starter #64
weld the stripped hole, then timesert it? is that possable? i know when you weld steel, the weld itself is stronger than the steel
Not sure about welding aluminum to steel. Seems like a tough job to do properly. May be theoretically possible, but I’m not sure it’s worth the candle at this point. I’m pulling the thing apart either way.

A friend and original owner of the car has a donor block he’s willing to lend. I actually have another block (original motor in the car), but without 2 and 4 mains drilled.
 

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not welding alumiumn to steel, but the just weld up the aluiumn hole in the block...my statement was ; when you weld steel , the weld itself is stronger than the steel itself ;
 

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Yep time for another block

Pete
 

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Discussion Starter #67
Yep time for another block

Pete
Yeah, if it were a GTA block or something special, I’d try to save it. But it’s a bog standard 2 liter other than the 2 and 4 main drilling.


Tore everything down yesterday. Sad how long it took to put it all together and how quickly it came apart. Hopefully can get the new block started next week.
 

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I've often wondered if it is possible to make the head studs go right threw the bottom of the block and the create a 4 bolt main bearing setup.

There would have to be a step or shoulder on the stud somewhere, and maybe not enough room, but if possible a stronger method than relying on aluminum threads
Pete
 

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Discussion Starter #69
I've often wondered if it is possible to make the head studs go right threw the bottom of the block and the create a 4 bolt main bearing setup.

There would have to be a step or shoulder on the stud somewhere, and maybe not enough room, but if possible a stronger method than relying on aluminum threads
Pete
Interesting idea. I will hold on to this block and may experiment with it. One idea I had for repair is to use an aluminum brazing rod to fill the hole and a heated stud, then back out the stud before the material is fully cooled.

May try it for a backup motor, but doesn’t make sense to use a wonky block with expensive liners, rods, and pistons.
 

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Discussion Starter #71
New patient on the operating table. Hopefully we won’t lose this one.

1628977

Block is in decent shape, but will need some cleaning as it’s been in storage for a long time.
 

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Looking at that photo the head studs look like they are close to lining up with the main bearing studs, and the main bearing size is a lot bigger than the Ecotec (I think)

Pete
 

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Discussion Starter #73
Looking at that photo the head studs look like they are close to lining up with the main bearing studs, and the main bearing size is a lot bigger than the Ecotec (I think)

Pete
I think the way to do it on Nord would be separate girdle that keys into the main caps. Almost like a really thick windage tray that also accepts the head studs. You'd probably also want billet main caps that are machined to accept the girdle. But it seems to me that you can already make more power than the chassis can really handle without going that far.
 

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Discussion Starter #74
Got some good cleaning done yesterday. I did the last block with lots of scrubbing. This time around, I used a power washer and aluminum brightner. Easily 1/4 the effort to get the block clean. Still prepping the mating surfaces with the old razor blade method, so a bit longer. Hopefully should have the motor ready to begin assembly by Friday.

1629217

I know I could just take it to a machine shop and have it cleaned, but I’m over machine shops at this point.
 

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Discussion Starter #75
Well it's been a very frustrating day. The motor was supposed to start coming together, but I'm utterly stuck on the crank. Everything should be the same- same caps, same bearings, same crank- except the block of course. Clearances are measuring at .001 as before. But once the main caps are fully torqued, I cannot turn the crank over even with a breaker bar. At 25ft lbs, it turns though it is tight, 36 and it's a total nope. Tried both my torque wrenches for good measure. Tried regular motor oil instead of assembly oil too.

I've taken the whole thing apart 3 times now (not including the clearance check) and still can't figure out what's going on. Can't figure out whether I'm doing something boneheaded, or some issue with the new block.
 

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New main caps!! Wow. I guess you have tested all the clearances and they are all good. I always believed they are matched to the block.

Pete
 

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Discussion Starter #80
New main caps!! Wow. I guess you have tested all the clearances and they are all good. I always believed they are matched to the block.

Pete
My original block was toast and the new one didn’t come with main caps. So it might be that the other main caps were a better match.

Part of my problem is the limitations of plastiguage for checking tolerances. You only get the tolerance at one point, and there is no resolution below .001in. The old main caps were showing .001, but they very well have been below that in spots.
 
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