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Discussion Starter #1
Never owned a Spider until now, so have a very basic question. Is this crossmember in the pic below a reasonable place to jack up the front of the car? I've seen it mentioned in other posts, but just want to be sure. I have a wood pad on the jack plate so as to not scar up the crossmember.

It's a 69 Spider. The jack points on the side (the boxes for the tire jack) aren't sturdy enough and I don't like jacking up a car one side at a time when putting on jackstands anyway.

Appreciate someone's confirmation on this. Don't want to munge my car out of ignorance.
 

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That is where I always jack the front of my spider - been doing it for a number of years without any apparent negatives. I also do not trust the corner jack points, prefering to jack on the level and use 2 jack stands when doing any kind of crawl under maintenance.

Robert
 

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Agree - that is a very strong place to position your jack

On the rear, I jack under the differential. I use a block of wood there that has a hole drilled partway through so that the full weight doesn't bear on the drain plug.
 

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Agree - that is a very strong place to position your jack

On the rear, I jack under the differential. I use a block of wood there that has a hole drilled partway through so that the full weight doesn't bear on the drain plug.
same with me- year after year. both solid rock places. nice cuz you can use just ONE jack point.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks everyone...this is helpful. And that disk of wood in the jack in the picture does have the donut hole in the middle for getting around the drainplug on the rear differential. That was a great tip from another thread on this topic!
 

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I wouldn't. I'm to afraid of bending it, even just a little. I think the best place is under the lower control arm, and that's where I place the jackstands.
 

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Jacking around...

During my last trip underneath, I made an inventory of bent frame member edges and all the places not to hoist...even with wood blocks. Used my jumbo vices grips to put things kinda right (hard to restore the straight edges, but fortunately, no trips to the Pebble Beach concours planned) and now have to restore the undercoating.

Currently, I go under the diff and the back of the sump guard, with wood. Just wish I had a lower clearance floor jack, with a shorter travel handle. Those 2" strokes can take forever... Also, don't rely on the parking brake to keep the car from rolling backwards when jacking the front. In 1st and chocked from behind. But everyone already knows that, right?

Garage door panels are expensive and look sketchy even after being hammered back into place. :( So far the Architectural Committee has not taken notice.

Also, have some low clearance ramps that are a big help for getting that first foot.

Best wishes.
 

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My GTV has been jacked up using that front cross member (likely by me also) and it now needs repair as it is dented. It is disappointing that Alfa did not design it strong enough to be used for jacking.
Pete
 

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It's difficult to use the cross member on my Spider due to the sump guard so the way I have always done it is to lift the rear by the differential, place jack stands under the aft rocker jack points and then raise the front by placing the jack under either one of the spring pans. If the rear jack stands are under the jack points the front will raise level even though jacking under only one spring pan. this won't work if you put the rear jack stands under the axle though. Once raised I put the front jack stands under the forward rocker jack points. This gives me a rock solid placement and the best all around access and is the fastest, easiest method as far as working the jack but you do need a low profile jack to get under the spring pan.
 

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Thanks, Paul!

I'm going to try your technique.

Best wishes.
 

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It's difficult to use the cross member on my Spider due to the sump guard
right, that is a good point, but yes, you do need a LOW profile jack to start, then push jack not from the front which woyuld not be a good angle cuz of what you mantioned, but from the side of the car, about at the midle of either door, and proceed at a 45 deg angle toward that beam- gets right under that cross beam. Just a tip- how I have been doing it.......
 

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What's the clearance, Clarence?

right, that is a good point, but yes, you do need a LOW profile jack to start, then push jack not from the front which woyuld not be a good angle cuz of what you mantioned, but from the side of the car, about at the midle of either door, and proceed at a 45 deg angle toward that beam- gets right under that cross beam. Just a tip- how I have been doing it.......
And start working that handle up and down in 2" strokes :).
 

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A low profile jack is the way to go for sure with these cars. Eliminates unnecessary fussing around getting either the rear or front end up. I've always made sure the saddle is directly in the middle of the diff so the teeth grab the metal first putting no load on the drain plug. Never liked using wood blocks so I throw an old thick dirty rag on the saddle also so not to mar any metal. I was going to splurge on a $300+ jack a few years ago but got this harbor freight brand 3 ton low profile one for about $75 four years ago and I love it. Works like a charm. At first the "made in China" thing was a turn off until I realized most of them are made there anyways and for a lot more money. I believe they still carry the one I've been using and for probably the same price. Figured I'd ramble my two cents on the subject.
 

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The cross member will bend and deform if you use it as a jacking point.

It's a 69 Spider. The jack points on the side (the boxes for the tire jack) aren't sturdy enough and I don't like jacking up a car one side at a time when putting on jackstands anyway.
If your sills are so bad that you don't trust the jacking points then you have bigger issues and shouldn't be driving the car.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Well, no. It's not uncommon for the jackboxes to be deformed for a wide variety of reasons from rolling off the poorly designed tire jack to finding a curb. Mine happened to find a rock in the road (previous owner) which bent it and knocked it loose, but that doesn't render the car unsafe to drive nor have any "bigger issues".
 

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Sure, I don't have the car in front of me, you do. From your original message I read that the jack points/sills are toast. If that's not the case then you're in luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Yeah - the driver's side just got munged by a rock many years ago. I should fix it, but it's low priority. Hence my jacking conundrum. ;-)
 

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Go scrounge around at a construction site, look for a scrap piece of 2 x 10 or 2 x 12 lumber, about 6 feet long. Cut it in half, and cut angled bevels on one end so you can drive up onto them with the front wheels. It gives you just enough clearance under the front so you don't have to struggle with your jack. I even drilled my floor so I could pin them in place while working.
 

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A low profile jack is the way to go for sure with these cars. Eliminates unnecessary fussing around getting either the rear or front end up. I've always made sure the saddle is directly in the middle of the diff so the teeth grab the metal first putting no load on the drain plug. Never liked using wood blocks so I throw an old thick dirty rag on the saddle also so not to mar any metal.
I did this once on my project and I think I might have bent the axle. Might just be my imagination but I think I can see positive camber in the back wheels now. Whatever; I'm never doing that again!

I was going to splurge on a $300+ jack a few years ago but got this harbor freight brand 3 ton low profile one for about $75 four years ago and I love it. Works like a charm. At first the "made in China" thing was a turn off until I realized most of them are made there anyways and for a lot more money. I believe they still carry the one I've been using and for probably the same price. Figured I'd ramble my two cents on the subject.
I have the Harbor Freight 3-ton low profile floor jack and it works a treat. I got it on sale for around $60 and it's a great value.
 

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I did this once on my project and I think I might have bent the axle. Might just be my imagination but I think I can see positive camber in the back wheels now. Whatever; I'm never doing that again!
Impossible, or the axle needs to be replaced as it is defective and not strong enough for road use.
Pete
 
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