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the best combination of cost, performance, simplicity and reliability was for a stock engine.
Ford EDIS with a megajolt or megasquirt controller.
Dirt cheap.
No moving parts.
Very simple.
Factory reliability.
Limp home mode.
High output.
Multi spark.
Fully programmable.

I've done a 2L and a V6 and apart from figuring a way to install the toothed wheel the rest was very easy.
 

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Gee, I don't think I have ever heard that. You yourself posted some advance curves in this thread on 12/16 - none of those show maximum total advance as low as 33 degrees, and some of the distributors you have plotted go as high as 40 degrees. While it might be possible that some Alfas during the "smog era" left the factory with maximum advances of only 33 degrees, that is not to say that 33 was all they "needed".

All that I have read suggests a static advance around 10 degrees, and a total advance in the high 30's at max rpm. Most of the differences between distributors & curves are simply how they get from one end of this range to the other.
I took the 33 degree max as advice from George Willet in this old post:
Here is my two cents worth on distributor curves.

One: the curve needed is determined by the combustion pressure of the cylinder. That has to do with the static compression ratio, the cam timing, the type of induction, the type and efficiency of the exhaust system, and the torque rpm range.

Two: the two liter engins seem to give the best torque with a total advance of 33 degrees, the 1750 at 36 degrees, and the 1600 at 40 to 46 degrees. For the same reasons that some engines need more total advance, they also can run more initial.
So an advance curve of 26 degrees at the crank works out well for each of the above engines.

Three: Distributor curves were designed for the engines running on the available fuel at the time. Leaded gas requires more advance than unleaded to have the same flame front timing. But the unleaded fuel on an aluminum head needs a little more advance than a cast head, so it equals out in todays Alfas.

The best starting place for timing is setting the total at the M mark on the crank pulley, then going 2 degree increments till the car runs slower at full throttle, and then backing off two degrees. Bet it's at the M mark!

I worked with Centerline on the distributor modifications, and the advance curve for the distributors they sell, and I use them in the engines I build, along with the stock Bosch coil with the external resister. (And 8mm spiral wound plug wires) That combination shows the best torque on the track and the dyno.]

I emphesize torque, because "torque wins races, horsepower sells cars"

Hope this helps. George Willet
 
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