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Discussion Starter #1
OK,

EMS has cross-drilled my block, and tapped my crank plugs. :cool:

i just received the all grooved Federal Mogul bearings from IAP. :)

so . . . how do the new oil holes in the block feed the #2 & #4 bearings? it looks like i need to add a hole in the center of two of the bearing shells to feed the grooves ? :confused:
 

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It seems like there are two approaches:

1. Drill and chamfer carefully a set of plain bearing shells, or
2. Purchase an extra set of shells which are drilled and have the groove in them.

Can you post photos describing where and how the extra oil holes were drilled? I'm pretty sure there's only one way of doing this ... but would be nice to see.

Alex.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
or purchase an extra set of shells and discard the undrilled ones
the drilled bearings ( #1,#3,#5 ) are wider than normally undrilled ones ( #2 & #4 ) and will not fit those crank journals. :(

describing where and how the extra oil holes were drilled?.
#2 & 4 were drilled straight up through the center of the block main bearing races JUST like the #1 & 3 are stock. the block is also now cross drilled to connect these holes to the main oil feed galley.

the #1, 3, & 5 shells are grooved AND drilled for direct oiling. i just see no way for the oil to get through the bearing to the crank from the new direct feed holes.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Plenty of information on drilling blocks is contained in this thread. Gives details on where to find the right shells.

Some pics of this process are in post # 22 & 23 here.
thanks, i have been aware of these threads since '04. ;)

i got the right bearings.

just re-read for the upteenth time and found this from Wil Painter :
"The upper bearing shell at 2 & 4 will have to be drilled and chamfered"
looks like i should have reread those first :eek:

thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #6
OK, no turning back now . . .

2 bearing shells are now drilled, chamfered, and de-burred.
 

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Glad to hear you got this figured out, Dion. I have been slow in catching up on the BB. My personal opinion is that drilling for direct oil to #2 and #4 is nice insurance on an engine that is run very hard. On the stock set up, the oil has to work against centrifugal force to make it's way from the rod journal back to the #2/#4 mains. That's not easy to do at 7000+ rpm!

Erik
 

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Dion: Thanks for the credit.
FWIW, I give EMS the bearings at the same time they cross drill the block, and they do the work :)
Wil
 

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I am going to chime in here as I have a question that is related to drilling the block. Before I get started, the block work is beautiful.
I was looking at the pictures where it shows the block and how it was drilled for the oil passages. The drilling was done from the filter side of the block. I have drilled out the factory plugs on the "intake" side of the block for a through cleaning of all passages. Then I tap with a 1/8" pipe and install pipe plugs to reseal the block. Seems to me it would be alot easier to go in on the side the factory uses to make the new oil passages. Just an observation.
What is the cost of having this work done on the block?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
there are actually correctly located, blank bosses on both sides of the block. they alternate sides for each main bearing.

EMS drilled all of them out, not just the two new holes for the new direct oiling. this was to facilitate better cleanout of the factory oil holes.

EMS, in Los Angeles, near LAX airport (i got buzzed by a landing 747 jumbo while picking up the parts), charges $225USD for the block and $150 for drilling & tapping the crank to replace the aluminum staked plugs with threaded plugs.
 

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there are actually correctly located, blank bosses on both sides of the block. they alternate sides for each main bearing.

EMS drilled all of them out, not just the two new holes for the new direct oiling. this was to facilitate better cleanout of the factory oil holes.

EMS, in Los Angeles, near LAX airport (i got buzzed by a landing 747 jumbo while picking up the parts), charges $225USD for the block and $150 for drilling & tapping the crank to replace the aluminum staked plugs with threaded plugs.
Thank you for the explanation of why the holes are drilled where they are. I wouldn't have guessed they would have to be drilled from the exhaust side.
The cost isn't bad at all. With bearings you are probably looking at $300 to have this extra added benefit. Then you have to add a high pressure oil pump (Jim Beck oil pump?) to keep up with the new oiling.
Years ago, right off of Manchester at Bellanca used to be the old Ward and Deane shop. Some of us that have been around a while made a few trips to that location.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
The cost isn't bad at all
thats what i thought when i received a phone quote.

Then you have to add a high pressure oil pump (Jim Beck oil pump?) to keep up with the new oiling.
i AM installing a spruell high pressure unit for other reasons, but i am not sure if this is really necessary with just the modifed main bearing oiling. perhaps someone else could chime in on this.

just so we're clear, they didn't cross drill ALL the way through the block for the main bearings. there are cast-in bosses on the block, perfect for threading and plugging of the new holes, one for each bearing cradle. #2 & 4 bosses are on the exhaust side, and # 1, 3, & 5 are on the intake side.

EMS drilled #1,3,& 5 to allow better clean out of the oil galleys. the machine shop (recommended by AR Ricambi back when they were in Glendale) that did all the other machine work before, wouldn't even remove the aluminum crank plugs for cleaning, and even advised that i didn't need to lap the valves after cutting the seats :eek:
 

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EMS has done several blocks for me, and they have always recommended a stock oil pump as adequate, even for racing use.
Wil Painter
 

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How to narrow a #1-3-5 shell

the drilled bearings ( #1,#3,#5 ) are wider than normally undrilled ones ( #2 & #4 ) and will not fit those crank journals. :(


the #1, 3, & 5 shells are grooved AND drilled for direct oiling. i just see no way for the oil to get through the bearing to the crank from the new direct feed holes.

Smokey's approach:

Chuck a piece of nylon, delrin, whatever in a collet. Turn a step in it to a diameter equal to crank main diam. plus bearing clearance plus maybe .001".

Put two bearing shell halves over it and clamp on with appropriate size hose clamp/clamps (stainless, worm drive type).

Shorten one side of bearing shells, reverse, and shorten other side.

Just like the factory, only use a grooved shell in the UPPER half.

Also, best if you figure out a way to cut a groove in the upper (block, not cap) half of the bearing seat, and make sure there are two or three holes through the bottom of the upper, grooved half of the bearing shell which will communicate with the groove in the bearing seat in the block.

Final step, if you REALLY want to get carried away--have the main journals of the crank cross drilled (two holes and ninety degrees, clear though). This last worked quite well for Ford at LeMans---

Greg
 
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