I know I have seen threads on these, but can't find them. Does anyone have a picture of one installed, or can anyone give me a couple of pointers? Picked it up at Harborfreight( $5.99), part looks good, but instructions are [email protected]
On racecars, the switch is mounted in various locations, but alway within reach of safety personnel in the event of an accident. On my car, the switch was mounted on the right front fender. I've seen people wire it in between the negative battery terminal and ground, and I've seen it between the positive terminal and the starter which is where mine was. Here's the best picture I could find of it:
Thanks guys. I saw a thread where there appeared to be a bracket for attaching the switch to the battery terminal( pos) If anyones knows the thread let me know. Searched battery, battery cutoff, cutoff ,battery cut-off, cut-off ,battery switch. No luck.
I put one as required (SCCA) in my Datsun 510 race car when I built it years back. I bought it from pegasus and as I recall it had good instructions. If you have a car with an alternator you need a special one with a resistor as seen below. I just had to replace the resistor as it was crumbling but never failed (some type of stone or ceramic??) and they sold it seperately. I have never had a related failure. Without the resistor they say you can fry parts. See paste below, Pegasus has a great tech dept you can call & talk to as well. Good luck
Email Special-#4430 Battery Cutoff Switch w/ Alt Protection
Regularly $54.99 - Now only $44.99 - You save $10.00! (for a limited time only)
We carry the highest quality master battery switches available. (See note below on how to spot a lower quality clone.)
Part No. 4430 has three sets of contacts for cars with alternators. The main contacts disconnect the battery while the auxiliary contacts disconnect the ignition coil and short the alternator output to ground through a 3 ohm resistor that is furnished with the switch.
A removable actuating key with splash guard, weather-proof cap, resistor and installation instructions are included. (Resistor lead configuration may vary.)
Question: How do I know if I'm looking at the genuine article and not a lower quality clone?
Answer: The terminals of the genuine highest-quality switches are plated with a tin-alloy and are therefore silver colored. Lower quality clones have unplated brass terminals. In addition, genuine switches are shipped with half-height nuts while clones are usually furnished with full height nuts.
Over the years we've heard about dozens of DNF's caused by unreliable master battery switches that were purchased elsewhere. Is saving a few dollars worth risking a DNF?
Click Here to view the wiring diagram.
Part No. EML284
Price Stock Status $43.99 In Stock
Unfortunately, most of the items at HF are also crap... The switch might look OK, it'll probabaly work OK (for a while) but I'd be afraid it'd fail just when you need it most.
Why are you wanting a battery disconnect switch? There is another type that attaches directly to a battery post. Racing organizations require an external disconnect so that all electrical power can be cut by a safety worker in the event of an 'incident'. The disconnect that attaches to the battery does not meet that requirement but it is useful when you are working on your car and want to be able to quickly & easily connect/disconnect the battery.