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No seal goes unpunished...

Has anyone else had trouble getting the hood shut with the seal installed? My hood shuts and opens beautifully with no seal but no dice with the seal. My first thought was that the seal might need some trimming it seems funny to me that the flange it sits on is so short at the outer ends by the screws in the cowl. But when I look at photos of other cars it seems like the seal does run the entire length of the flange. Any ideas?
Rus, You have the correct seal and it does span the entire length of the cowling. It will just need some time to conform when compressed with the hood closed. Patience has its virtues. Otherwise, you can go with the non sealing rubber U trim piece that is often used as a substitute. Ken
 

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Discussion Starter #122
I am getting oil vapor in the cabin when I lift off the throttle at medium to high rpm I would like this seal to be installed correctly. I cannot get the hood to latch when it is installed. Looking at the latch I am wondering if it is damaged I do not have another car to compare to but it appears that the strike plate is bent and the metal around his dimple. Is the latch adjusted with the bolt on the firewall slackened?

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Yes, the latch is adjusted for vertical play and the striker plate is adjusted for fore-aft play. Washers are used under the two latch cowling screws as needed for the desired height, then locked down by all three screws. The striker plate is a matter of adjusting it fore or aft and securing with the four bolts. Since your hood looks like it’s taken a beating around the striker plate, you’ll probably need to add more latch washers than originally installed To increase the height accordingly.
A3CC6FD5-26E7-4F18-BA6E-7F903BC376E4.jpeg 0BCDAF40-A874-44A8-A7E3-38553855B73B.jpeg
 

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I am getting oil vapor in the cabin when I lift off the throttle at medium to high rpm I would like this seal to be installed correctly. I cannot get the hood to latch when it is installed. Looking at the latch I am wondering if it is damaged I do not have another car to compare to but it appears that the strike plate is bent and the metal around his dimple. Is the latch adjusted with the bolt on the firewall slackened?

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I've seen problem on several alfas from the 60s and 70s.

The plinth on which the latch catch is mounted on the hood has been depressed into the hood. The damage to your hood is a little worse than the average. I fixed the problem on the daily drivers by installing spacers or stand-offs on the latch to raise it from up to a height that makes it so that it meets the catch at approximately where Alfa intended them to meet. It looks like you'll need install somewhere between .5 to .75" tall standoffs.

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Discussion Starter #126
Just checking I understand you correctly you are saying that part A in my picture often becomes embossed so as to move away from part B and the solution you have used is to raise part B as shown in your photo. I understand this means adding standoffs under the two screws. did you also need to elongate the slot in the lower bolt?
Adjustments.jpg
 

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Just checking I understand you correctly you are saying that part A in my picture often becomes embossed so as to move away from part B and the solution you have used is to raise part B as shown in your photo. I understand this means adding standoffs under the two screws. did you also need to elongate the slot in the lower bolt?
Depends on how high you need to raise the latch to engage and catch the striker plate.
 

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Discussion Starter #128
Thanks for tips on the seal guys - I managed to get the hood to close with the seal in place by moving a single washer under the latch assembly. Right now the hood is still a bit harder to close than I like but I'll see if the seal relaxes a bit with time.
 

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Discussion Starter #130
Shout-out to Eric from PMB who continues to be incredibly helpful. It must have been five or more years ago he beautifully rebuilt my ATE calipers and he still answers emails instantly. I was getting consistent low-speed squeal and he suggested another bedding-in run. I took advantage of low-volume on I-95 and sure enough the brakes are now dead quiet.

Meanwhile I've posted my leak-down quandaries on a new thread - Interpreting Leakdown Results
 

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Discussion Starter #131
It will take a few months... mine did.
I suppose I haven't waited a full month but I was uncomfortable with the violence of closing the hood so I added one more washer under the 'plinth' and it now closes with nearly no force but the seal keeps the hood from sitting flush at the rear. It sits flush without the seal. Want to check again that this is correct: at the outer ends the flange is considerably shorter than the recess in the seal, which just feels funny. Second pic is me moving the seal to the middle of the flange where its deeper and looks 'right'.
 

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No rocket science here. The seal spans the full length of the flange and fits on top. It will compress, both the hollow sealing and the lower U channel portions. It took mine months to finally yield. 9BD7A81A-376B-43C6-9D65-72A8E58860A1.jpeg 451C79B2-ECC9-4CEE-88DC-4629CEDFCC68.jpeg
 

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Discussion Starter #133
I think my problem was with the latch more than the seal. I removed the spring cleaned the striker adjusted everything as best I could and I am getting a nice close now.
 

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You should find a mobile paintless dent remover guy and have that hood straightened. The whole area where the striker plate sits should be pulled out
 
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