Huge props to Yvesmontreal and Ranz for solving my very frustrating inconsistent brake feel! Went out for a nice windy road drive after cleaning out the check valve and its a whole new braking system. Steadily getting there!
I have a nose heavy 6cyl classic coupe, and I put on an rear anti roll bar to tighten up (shorten) the transition response. I find it makes it more easy to drive a precise line on the narrow twisty back road tours we do here in New England. It makes the old coupe feel more nimble. I will never drive it more than 7/10ths on public roads (it is irresponsible) , and therefore do not mind the slight loss of max rear grip.
But, on my race car (also a bit nose heavy, and prone to a little understeer), I don’t use a rear bar because the car has more ultimate grip without.
So, I think there’s no right or wrong, just different preferences and driving situations.
Spica pump is ready to come off... except for the belt. The belt has only a few thousand miles on it so I'd like to re use it rather than cutting. I have a little wd40 on the pulley and have pried as much as feels right with plastic tools. Its moving but not off. Is this the idea? Any better way?
Sorry but I can’t help. I did the 4 nuts to the block. As everyone says the front upper is tough followed by the rear upper nut.
I used both a long skinny (MAC) and a stubby 13mm combination wrench to get those two loose. Once loosened they spun off with fingers.
Thought id share a new finishing experiment from the garage. My friend Rob over on renn list inspired me to try nickel plating. This really is quite easy following directions posted online. I took the occasion to buy an adjustable power supply and some beakers which are nice things to have anyway and not very expensive. Besides that the only specialty item is the nickel anodes themselves. You start by making the nickel acetate in vinegar with a little bit of salt for conductivity. After that you swap out one anode for the part to be plated and a few minutes later it’s all done. I left the line between the original brass and the nickel plating intentionally asymmetrical to better show the results. I gave one surface a quick polish on the buffing wheel but am sure there are nickel specific procedures if a mirror shine is desired.
Well I got the SPICA pump back on and now need to get the belt on... last time I did so the motor was on a stand. Yikes its not easy to get it squarely seated on the crank pulley nor pump pulley. I've read the suggestion to get it started then roll the car or bump the starter but even getting it started is a chore!
The first rule of Wife is purchase dedicated stuff for garage. You're talking to the man with a $50 powdercoating oven aka marriage saver.
That is a very nice cutting matt from McMaster. Like just about everything they sell its aesthetically pleasing and made in the USA.
I got the SPICA belt back on and started her up. Ran the motor and checked the microswitch with a test light but saw nothing. Dispirited I went out for a short drive to make sure I had everything back together right. I checked again back in the garage and found the test light showna working switch! I presume this may be because the thermostatic actuator keeps the throttle slightly open when the motor is entirely cold so the microswitch may not get the signal it needs? Either way I am happy to have things back together and to know the switch is functional.
Has anyone else had trouble getting the hood shut with the seal installed? My hood shuts and opens beautifully with no seal but no dice with the seal. My first thought was that the seal might need some trimming it seems funny to me that the flange it sits on is so short at the outer ends by the screws in the cowl. But when I look at photos of other cars it seems like the seal does run the entire length of the flange. Any ideas?
I switched that seal with a rubber edge trim that covers the edge but does not contact the hood. On another GTV I had the original seal worked fine, but when I put a new one on I had the problem that you are having. I would look for a seal that is smaller.
I’m assuming the seal was introduced (1600s didn’t have them) to reduce hot-air or engine fumes ingress into the ventilation system, not there to ‘carry’ the weight of bonnet. The catch spring and adjustable rubber bump stops do that.
Having said that, I did buy and install one on my 1600 In case it does Indeed achieve those things. I MAY have had to shim the catch up a little to have it ‘catch’, I don’t remember. There’s certainly enough wriggle room In the mount holes to do that. I can’t remember if the catch post is itself adjustable for height.
The bigger question will be....if you do get it to catch, is the bonnet then still flush with the cowl. Mine was OK.
Smithy’s suggestion of a smaller seal would obviously work too.