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Discussion Starter #81
Well this isn't what I'd hope to see....

The innovate gauge threw an error code pointing to a bad sensor. I pulled it and saw a fine black dusting all over it. If I am to believe the numbers on the gauge, she was running a touch rich but not wildly grossly rich. I gave the sensor a light clean and ran the calibration but still got an error. I will either get it replaced or buy a new one but have to say I am a bit surprised at how 'fragile' the sensor it. I have it located aft of the first muffler where I thought it would be somewhat less in harms way. I do understand that overcooling is as much a problem as overheating but still... anyone seen this? Its a Bosch LSU 4.9
 

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Discussion Starter #82
Separately...

I believe I have coolant exiting the system under pressure while I drive. I see signs of it on the underside of the hood and adjacent surfaces. I just tightened all of the hose connections but it would seem to me the most likely culprit is the pressure release cap. If I understand correctly this Should only vent coolant in an emergency because it would first expand to the plastic bottle. The bottle is filled exactly halfway between the minimum and maximum marks and when cold the radiator is filled quite close to the top.

Does all of that sound correct and does anybody see anything untoward in my set up? The radiator is a replacement I do not recall which model it is from if not GTV I think I got it from Keith at Alfas unlimited and had it pressure tested before installing.

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Discussion Starter #83
Tightening all my hoses and reseating the rad cap seems to have dried things up. I zip tied a paper towel over the rad cap, that ought to be a good tell if any pressure is being vented.

Meanwhile I swapped all four corners to Ferodo street pads. Funny to remove nearly new pads but as mentioned they were no names that needed some metal removed to fit and the Ferodos were inexpensive so I tacked them onto my latest CA order.
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This is a great thread for me.

My 74 GTV is stripped down and ready for the body shop to do a bare metal repaint. I WILL pit the front sway bar back on before it goes to the shop!

In parallel, I’ll be doing a budget rebuild of my motor but (like you) will be keeping the stock Spica system. the Pump passes the checks listed on this forum butnit does need a new TA and microswitch.

Like you I want a little more engine performance, but I can’t afford to spend $6k on go-fast parts. At most I’m told I can go with Motronic pistons and slightly more aggressive cams and maintain compatibility w the Spica pump. Car already has a set of nice tubular headers. No fancy distributor like your 123.

When you have your engine setup dialed in I would be interested to meet up (I’m west of Boston). It would be nice to see how much better your car goes with the limited modifications.

John
 

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Discussion Starter #85
I'd be happy to John. The only other modification is that I did just splurge on a set of RJ's cams. I don't profess to know much of anything about cams / SPICA so I told him I have a stock spec pump, motronic pistons and he took it from there. I will let you know how the feel when properly adjusted. Incidentally I just revived a microswitch thread on the Fuel Injection forum - I'll be buying one from DigiKey soon and will post on its install.
 

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I ordered a replacement switch from Digikey on Monday. I don’t get loud backfires but do get little bubbly/poppy sounds. If it only costs me $14 to fix the FCS operation, why not just do it. Btw, I think pulling the pump is equally easy via the 4 nuts to the block or 6 base nuts. The hard part, I imagine is getting the injection lines off and out of the way.

John
 

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Discussion Starter #87

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To remove the injector lines from the pump, cut a slot in a box end wrench and it will give you a tool that will clear the tight space around the injectors line fasteners. When removed pull them aside and secure them with a bungie cord.
 

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Smithy
Great advice.

I just couldn’t bring myself to cut a slot in my 40 year old Mac box-end wrenches (my first set). I’ll go buy a couple cheapo wrenches at Lowe’s to play around with.
 

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Discussion Starter #91
This kinda thing is one of many reasons I want a mini mill.

Tonights news: I got the front roll bar on! Used some prussian blue on The radiator crossmember to help me identify where the conflicts were and took those parts of the bar down a little with an angle grinder. Not elegant but then no solution was going to be. As you might guess the bar makes a massive difference in handling.

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The other thing you could do is bend the anti-roll bar so it clears ... but might have to be done by a professional as pretty strong steel
Pete
 

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Discussion Starter #93
Surely you do not suggest I am anything but a professional? Jk jk.

Now onto the rear bar... after pressing the drop arms on backwards (as they were previously installed for some reason) i pulled them off and will try to discern their correct orientation before pressing back on.
 

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Discussion Starter #94
The completed hvac ‘pod’.

Making it was easier than dealing with the cables. The originals are 1.5mm piano wire. I found this gauge to be right at the threshold of whats easily formed. Since I was using slightly smaller id bicycle brake housing to route it I tried one gauge down - .049” and found this to be much more formable. I made the loopty loop and s curve ends with nothing but Knipex wire bending pliers.

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R-mm, No I meant that a huge amount of force and maybe even heat would be required to bend the roll bar, which I don't think we could do at home :D
Pete
 

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Re: Brakes
Interesting info in regards to seals needing braking-in, didn't know that. In regards to pads, they will bite much better after a correct heat cycling or two. I'm using Motive pressure bleeder to bleed the system in both directions (From MC to calipers or backward).
Re: AFR sensor
I burnt two of them because of a tiny pinhole nearby. Once that was fixed, the sensor hasn't had any issues since. An easy way to find a leak is to attach shop vac to the exhaust pipe with duct tape wrapped, vac should be blowing not sucking of course. Than spray soapy water and keep searching all the way to the headers or even to the intake butterflies (engine valves need to be opened for each cylinder)
Good luck, these "small" things can be worse than the major ones to chase around and fix, bu
t eventually they all get resolve with patience and help from alfabb
 

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Discussion Starter #97 (Edited)
I've got both roll bars on! Why was that such a monumental undertaking... my impressions are that both bars improve the handling of the car. Its intersting to have spent so much time driving the car with NO roll bars, something I would endeavour to think (hope) no one has done. Suspension changes can be hard to detect and are often coupled with replacing worn old components so I am always a bit wary of people telling me what X did to the handling of the car, but in this case I can say both bars contribute to the flatness, responsiveness and feedback of both axles. Mind you my car is VERY very stock. I'm sure various vices and biases come to light when you do anything whatsoever to the suspension, but for a stock car I struggle to see why you wouldn't want both bars.
 

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Well done, have fun ripping up corner exits now!
I believe once the front springs and sway bar are stiffened up/upgraded with added grip from the modern tires, rear bar just looses the functionality on a street car (understeer's safer than oversteer). Just my $.02
 

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Discussion Starter #99
That makes sense. Im sure my sumitomos
Have more grip than 70s tires but I went to lengths to keep them skinny. So far I’m quite pleased with the more or less stock ride. My plan all along was to experience the car as the factory intended it, then make the changes I’d like to see.

Random pic from a perfect Sunday...
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