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R-mm,

Can you alter the rollbar mounts to move the roll bar back (down, up, forward ... I'm not sure what is required but assume back), and then grind away the rollbar mount rubber to suit this new position? The location of the rollbar is actually not important, could be + or - 25mm's in any direction and will still work fine. You could even install a backwards facing one like I believe the GTAs sometimes used :). I think they made mounts off the steering stop brackets ...

Re my-brakes. No heat cycles have not solved the issue, as I believe the issue is the pads I have need to be heated up before they bite. So unless I change to softer pads this will be a continue issue. But if you already have soft pads then this should not be the issue, but I recommend that you properly bed in the pads before doing anything else. This involves multiple hardish braking until the pads fade out, and then let them cool and the glues, oils, etc. will have melted out of the pads and they are ready for action. This is an absolute must if you are ever going to use the brakes hard, and if not done will result in a big fright ... yep, been there and had the off (luckily at a race track)
Pete
 

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Discussion Starter #42
Hi Pete

I'd thought about all these options. made some inquiries about a rear mount front anti sway bar I saw some postings on but didn't get much further than that. considered moving the mount point but I'm so close - the driver side is bolting down okay and the pass. side is just a few mm from working. I think I can do it, its just un-fun.

Re brakes - I was asking if your fade goes away when the brakes are hot, not post heat cycle. Wouldn't it be a test of the issue residing with pads or other component to get them hot but not boiling, on the highway say, and then test the feel? I looked back and found this thread on my pads. I'm sure they are not race pads but have come to regret just about all the lousy brands that IAP sold and I bought when I didn't know any better. I could source some quality (ATE, etc) pads I suppose. What do you all use for a street car? CA sells Ferodo BR021 SET OF FRONT BRAKE PADS - ALL ATE 1750/2000 CARS & MONTREAL

 

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r-mm said:
Re brakes - I was asking if your fade goes away when the brakes are hot, not post heat cycle.
Oh, the answer is I believe so, meaning that I believe there is no perceptible delay when I press the brake pedal and I feel the car slow. I therefore believe my car has relatively hard pads and needs a little bit of heat for them to work.

And yes a good test would be to get them nice and warm and see what the pedal feels like. Note if you have not bedded them in, you should anyway IMO.
Pete
 

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Discussion Starter #45
Tonight I ran a half liter of DOT4 thru the system, motive bleeding all four corners. I didn't see much in the way of bubbles but let it run thru. Did the clutch for good measure.

Then I went out for some 'bedding in' runs. On all my ~60-70mph - ~20mph stops the brakes felt good, always plenty of power. Did this 5 or 6 times and was smelling brakes.

Yet I still occasional get inconsistent pedal feel. I'll try to describe it...

To start with the pedal has some travel or low resistance travel before the brakes bite. This doesn't feel 'wrong.' It is no different than how fresh brakes in my E30 compare to fresh brakes in my 964. Worlds apart in pedal feel, travel, etc but both feel 'right' unto themselves if that makes any sense. However sometimes I feel like I'm driving a different car. There is initial resistance, but it almost feels as though I can 'power thru' that initial resistance to the meat of the braking force. For some reason I think of the booster causing this since I know how different a pedal can feel with/without the booster.

That said, the car passes the standard booster test very well. Pump brake with motor off = firm pedal. Start car = pedal sinks a bit. Pump brake at idle = no effect on idle.

So not entirely sure on this one yet.
 

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Thanks Andrew!

I believe I've reached the limit of my ability to tune by feel/sound/smell/spark plug tea leaves and would like to get some hard numbers on the AFR. I've long considered a wideband but haven't purchased. Since I'll one day (let's say, 10 years from now?) have my 912 on the road Its an item that will come in handy. Jon Slocum sent me a link to this - I like that no gauge is required and the company tells me its compatible with more involved data logging if so desired (probably not). Does anyone have wideband SPICA tuning experience to share?

I've had the PLX wideband installed on a 1972 GTV TS since 2018. Very useful. First I had it just sniffing the exhaust at the tailpipe. It was instrumental in helping me solve a hesitation under load issue. I still have the bracket, do you want it? Image below.

I installed a bung at the appropriate place on the downpipe (using a 60mm diameter exhaust system with custom headers) so now I have a wideband all the time.

1629931
 

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Discussion Starter #47 (Edited)
I’m happy to hear the sensor was useful for your tuning. I also plan to install a bung on my exhaust I am not yet sure if I will leave the sensor in permanently or pull it once I am satisfied with my tuning.

Tonight I went for an easy win and cleaned up the heat lever prior to fabricating some simulation of the junior style bracket. The sandblast to powder coat workflow is so fast it really is addictive. For a little parts like this the fake chrome powder does a pretty great job I doubt one would ever notice the difference in service.

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Discussion Starter #48
I have literally forgotten which way is up on this piece. Before I install the plastic handles can somebody remind me what orientation the brackets it’s in and where the blue and red dot should be?

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Discussion Starter #49
Anyone found a generic hose/bellows that fits the heater outlet to dashtop vents? Ive struck out a few times on mcmaster. Or anyone got a used one? Ugly is fine but this one is so ripped it doesnt stay put.
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Discussion Starter #51
Thanks Scalino.

Now this is looking a lot more like what I ordered...

So far impressed with cabling, quality, instructions. Also they have a rebate going.
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Discussion Starter #52
The gauge pod is coming along...


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One thing I could use an eye on is the lower hvac lever. Mine seems twisted so that the ‘hot’ side is low and rubs the bottom of the frame. Before I whack it flat can someone look at theirs for me? Hard to photograph.

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Discussion Starter #53
The gauge pod is done & powdercoated. Hvac control bracket must be oriented with its spring loaded pin facing down on account of the cable clamp facing the drivers side. Only remaining step is refurbing and reconnecting the cables.

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Nice. Ditching the 2000 interior look I guess :)

Pete
 

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Discussion Starter #55
This is the final step - I’ve gone full Jr on the dash already and loving it.
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Fair enough. I also prefer that dash type :)

Pete
 

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Discussion Starter #59
Thanks for the tip. How is the fit? I have something that looks kinda like that but with very stiff wire reinforcement that makes it basically impossible to fit over the not-round rigid plastic ducting.
 
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