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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi everyone

This is Rus on the CT Shoreline. I've been on this forum since January 2010 when I bought a basketcase-with-lipstick 1973 GTV. I had always tuned and worked on my own cars, motorcycles but had never touched a welder, opened a motor past valve adjustments or done much wiring or other work. My car was enough of a heap that I could really do no worse and set out to make it better. Well it is a little more than ten years later and I am just starting to consider the car "a car".

A littler history first... I'm almost 40 now in the intervening years I got married, became a licensed architect, traveled to china about 90 times, quit my job, started a firm with a childhood friend, daily'd, rebuilt and sold an '87 911 3.2, bought a roller 1965 912 (and couldn't help myself start restoring it), bought a home, daily'd, rebuilt and sold an '89 BMW 325i, daily'd and rebuilt (will never sell i swear!) a 964 C4. So I have excuses.

I documented my work on a few very long threads (below) but have since gotten lazy, posting odd questions as they came to mind etc. I had the GTV in a storage unit while the 964 had its motor rebuilt and just Saturday drove round to the storage center with a battery jump pack, bracing for the worst. Expect bad smells, maybe rust, no start: in other words the beginning symptoms of what make people park cars and forget them for a decade. Instead I was greeted with a quick turn over and steady if lumpy idle. I spent the rest of this glorious weekend driving up and down the coast, reminding myself where I left off. So here I am, ready to finish this project, bring it as close to 100% as any restoration can ever be. More to come...

Phase II
Phase III
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
When I parked the GTV for the season I had just got into tuning the motor. The pump was rebuilt by wes and set up meticulously per instructions published here and in Wes' book. After seeing very irregular advance with the timing light I upgraded my Pertonix equipped Marelli diz to a very nice switched unit from 123. I was not able to have the car run well under all conditions with the primary issue being a very weak lopey idle that I would have to tune around by monkeying with the advance or mixture. I rebuilt a set of throttle bodies John J donated to me after selling his car to see if that was the culprit but didn't see much change. A major breakthru came from an oft ignored or maligned part - the idle speed adjusting o-ring. I got a nice fat soft hi temp o-ring from McMaster and found that tightening it down some cured what must have been a very lean condition at idle. The car now starts and idles very nicely and I'm back to being able to tune for power. I had the 123 on the A curve to be conservative and because its advance started at 1k, letting me try to take advance out of the idle equation. Now that she idles I moved on to the 1 curve and set max advance a hair over the "M" mark. I have a lousy timing light and a better one on order - crucially one that has digital RPM readout. I have no clue if my unrestored Veglia tach is accurate and my multimeter, triggered by the coil, is all over the place. Which is just to say: if I were doing this again I would certainly go for the bluetooth 123. Not only is changing the curve on the switched unit annoying (removing, re-setting distributor) but having accurate RPM is a HUGE benifit. Anti theft and custom curves only sweeten the deal.

I'm lucky to live by some most excellent proving grounds and these are pretty quiet days on the roads so I've been doing some enjoyable shakedown runs.

I wonder what redline you all use for more or less stock but fully rebuilt motors? My internals are all stock besides motronic pistons, hastings rings, 10548 intake and few lbs off the flywheel.
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks Andrew!

I believe I've reached the limit of my ability to tune by feel/sound/smell/spark plug tea leaves and would like to get some hard numbers on the AFR. I've long considered a wideband but haven't purchased. Since I'll one day (let's say, 10 years from now?) have my 912 on the road Its an item that will come in handy. Jon Slocum sent me a link to this - I like that no gauge is required and the company tells me its compatible with more involved data logging if so desired (probably not). Does anyone have wideband SPICA tuning experience to share?

 

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Looks great! I've been following your build over the years, cant wait until mine reaches your level! Mine is finally painted and ready to reassemble...I'm actually going through a lot of your old posts to see details about the re-assembly!
 

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I really like the version of Bluette that you painted your GTV. Would you be willing to share the paint brand and formula? The only formula I've found is a little too green.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I really like the version of Bluette that you painted your GTV. Would you be willing to share the paint brand and formula? The only formula I've found is a little too green.
I used the formula on Glasurit's website and had the factory match it to a two stage color. It is a really fantastic subtle hue.
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Looks great! I've been following your build over the years, cant wait until mine reaches your level! Mine is finally painted and ready to reassemble...I'm actually going through a lot of your old posts to see details about the re-assembly!
Glad to hear that! If I can help you with anything please ask. Very high likelyhood I have forgotten answers however... time flies.
 

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Hi everyone

This is Rus on the CT Shoreline. I've been on this forum since January 2010 when I bought a basketcase-with-lipstick 1973 GTV. View attachment 1626375
Nice work, great color.

Also an architect, have a friend with a slightly questionable SWB 912(-6), never been to China, and my son and I are rebuilding his '86 E30 project car!

I have always enjoyed this Peter Egan piece I love sharing.....
"Stage Five: The bead blaster years"
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Nice work, great color.

Also an architect, have a friend with a slightly questionable SWB 912(-6), never been to China, and my son and I are rebuilding his '86 E30 project car!

I have always enjoyed this Peter Egan piece I love sharing.....
"Stage Five: The bead blaster years"
I like it!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
If my shiny new inductivly triggered timing light is to believed... the old Veglia Tach is pretty **** spot on!

What do you all use for redline? I've been using the beginning of the red area, approx 5600 to be conservative.
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Redline is strangely absent from all the factory lit I'm browsing. Is 5,800 a good number ?
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I was not alive when these cars were sold new. "back in the day" was redline more of a red-zone? ie, limit your use of this area but no hard limit?

Yet another reason I wish I had the 123 dizzy with the bluetooth: would be great to have a soft rev limiter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I’ve been having a great time dialing the car in. I have been trying different curves on the switched 123 distributor and so far found the car is liking curve D a lot. This is the so-called tuning curve and has only 21° of advance which means you set it with approximately 10° of static. On the other curves the idle was always a bit a week and sometimes shuttered. The added static advance seems to be giving better results - smoother approx 750 rpm idle and the car still pulls beautifully to redline. I have no way to tell if I am leaving some power on the table by only going to about 31° total advance but based on what I have read about pinging and the difficulty of hearing it when it first starts I think I would rather not push for every last pony.

I ordered a new gas tank sender seal from classic alfa and installed it with a little bit of Curil T as well as some thread sealant on the screws. Nonetheless I find some gas pooling here where I am pointing if I fill the car up and drive it. Is this a known quirk that can be avoided by filling the tank less? It seems like something is wrong.
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I don’t know about ‘quirk’, but my new seal leaked until I hit it and the screws with fuel-resistant, non-hardening sealant. Perhaps you just have to move from ‘a bit’ to ‘a bit more’. I went with ‘plenty’ and mine is good as gold now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
What did you use? Curil T is fuel resistant but i usually use a very fine film. Since the paint around the leak has now peeled the sealing surface is also a bit compromised...
 
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