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Balocco SE project - photos and request for suggestions/advice

11K views 102 replies 16 participants last post by  Balocco Project 
#1 ·
Just took a lunch break to whack at a dent -- trying to re-create the crease along the front fender. Taking pictures reminded me to get this thread going with photos of the project.

I'm a complete novice at working metal, but I wasn't happy with the stud welder/slide hammer -- too many low spots between the welds. So I took out the grille and I'm working both sides of the fender with a light ball-peen hammer. I'd like to get it shaped as close as possible but don't know how perfect it needs to be before bondo goes on. Any suggestions are welcome.

A used engine arrives next week. The only other major component I need to find is a windshield.

Here is my current status:

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And here are the "before" pictures:

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#35 ·
I switched over the water pump and installed new gaskets including the upper/lower gaskets for the thermostat housing.

Could use help on sealing up the tensioner. I found the old engine to have:
  • an o-ring on the oil feed, in a hole in the plate behind the tensioner
  • an o-ring on the FRONT of the erratic bearing component
  • a snap ring the BACK of the bearing component

Whereas the donor engine has:
  • a lot of red RTV on both sides of the plate. It still has the o-ring where the oil feed goes in.
  • an o-ring on the BACK of the bearing
  • nothing but the washer on the FRONT of the bearing (no o-ring)

Anyone know the proper location/order of o-rings?

After the tensioner and timing belt go on, it's on to the valve cover/spark gaskets and the rear seal. Then the upper and lower sump gaskets.

I also have new engine mounts coming and the giubos and center bearing to replace

And hopefully I can get the cracked bell housing welded. I have a friend looking at it. If not, it's JB weld and a prayer.

At some point, the donor engine goes in the car!

Also, my uncle (the one who gave me the car) is working on milling a new driver door handle pull:

Water Building House Naval architecture Rectangle


He has a motorcycle components business--mostly making stuff for vintage BSA/Triumph speed triples--but I told him there might be a market for fabbed Alfa doodads!
 
#42 ·
I think it's very likely both magnesium and aluminum versions have been used. Probably in later years a switch to aluminum was made, for cost reasons.

Usually magnesium castings CAN be repaired by welding, but probably not for beginners or your typical auto shop.
 
#47 ·
I think it's very likely both magnesium and aluminum versions have been used. Probably in later years a switch to aluminum was made, for cost reasons.
I got the cracked bellhousing back. I tried the vinegar test on it. I can confirm that it reacted, so it was definitely magnesium.

The used replacement that I got from the recycler in Virginia came from a 1987 Milano. So at some point they updated the part for magnesium to aluminum.
 
#45 ·
Nice!
 
#49 ·
BTW: is the weight difference noticeable?
You had to ask. It took me 20 minutes to get the press-fit starter bolt out just to do an apples-to-apples weight comparison (both of these had the motor mount in, and the magnesium one has a little bit of grinding where it was cracked).

The weight is definitely noticeable. 1.5kg difference!

Automotive tire Motor vehicle Amber Automotive lighting Rim
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Helmet Bumper Automotive lighting
 
#53 ·
Only the early GTV6 came with the Mag alloy parts in my observation. I seem to recall an early GTV6 brochure that touted quite a lot of Mag parts.

For a street car, you will prefer the aluminum alloy versions...I converted a couple of 3.0 GTV6 to aluminum alloy versions.

For cracked/separated Mag alloy parts, there are certain adhesives/structural epoxy that can be used if you stop crack propagation.
 
#56 ·
Engine in. Doing the drive shaft center mount and bearing.

Need help on the center mount (the manual has no instructions for this). I'm pressing the assembly together but the 32mm lock nut is really thin. I've rounded a couple of surfaces because the press-fit is taking so much force and the socket gets so little meat to work with. Any suggestions? Put some washers behind the nut, "raising" it deeper into the socket for the pressing step? Get a bigger nut to wail on for the press and then replace it with the locknuts? (Not sure where I'd find a 24mmx1mm thread though.)
Hand Gesture Wood Gas Wrist
 
#59 ·
Anyone know where I can get this rubber grease cap that fits over the center bushing? Centerline was super helpful and spent some time on the phone with me. It suggested OKP or Classic Italia, but no dice. I also tried AW Alfa and Mr. Fiat.

They also suggested that it maybe isn't strictly necessary (and the old broken one is probably useable). But if I can find a replacement while I have it out, it'd be nice to address.

Wheel Tire Bicycle wheel rim Automotive tire Bicycles--Equipment and supplies
 
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