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Discussion Starter #1
hi guys,

i've heard that people get a sockets walls ground down so it fits onto wheel bearing nut.., does anyone have any specs, measurements for this?

cheers,

rob
 

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I just used a bench grinder until the socket fit.

Paul
 

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Sears Craftsmen 36 mm 12 point socket fits without grinding outer wall.
 

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Yeah, no need to grind, just get the socket from Sears like Steve said. It works the best. You're going to need a LONG cheater bar to get this off if it's never been off. I don't even think air tools would work on this unless they are really powerful.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
EDIT 21/09/07: Sources updated.

Thanks for the tips guys. Just to let you know, I couldn't find an Australian distributor for Sears tools but I was able to get a 1/2" drive, 36mm Elora branded socket from Ian at http://www.tw-performance.com.au , which is approx 49mm outer diameter.

Then Stephen at Bawden & Cremond Precision Engineering in Glen Huntly (SE Melb) was able to take off 2mm with his lathe, giving 47mm OD. You can get Stephen on 03 9571 2623.

Now I was gonna buy a new torque wrench but for one that goes upto 350nm (what Alfisto Steve has prev quoted me), but wow - not cheap!!

Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Well, the saga continues...

After replacing the front right wheel bearing a few weeks ago, I pulled the wheel off again today and sure enough, the bearing nut had loosened some due to me not torquing it hard enough (as I didn't have the the right socket!).

Now, armed with the right socket, I retorqued the bearing nut again which fixed play in wheel, but now when driving, I get a squeeky whistle from the bearing under low accelleration or no accelleration (coasting). I do not get any noise when braking or medium/hard accell.

Do you think that after the nut becoming loose and being tightened again, it may take some time for the bearing to "re-seat" itself, so to speak, or am I being stupid and the nut coming loose has ruined a new bearing already?

Quad
1992 12v 164Q
Melbourne, Australia
 

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The bearing does rely on the axle nut being tightened to the proper torque being a typical "split" bearing. If the nut was loose it will cause the roller bearings to wear prematurely, not running at the proper angle with the races. So it could be bad again, but I would look for other reasons for the noise first before doing the work again. Also, the bearing could have slightly come apart at the split, allowing dirt in and grease out. All IMHO ;).
Charles
 

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Did you restake the nut to keep it from coming loose again?
 

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It's really important that you get the proper torque spec for this. Also, you need to pound a notch in the cut-out when you're at the proper torque spec.
 

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I don't even think air tools would work on this unless they are really powerful.

You need to try more powerful impacts. The IR Titanium 1/2 impact has 1000 ft/lbs of breakaway torque. The 3/4 version has even more continuous power. In addition to staking the nut, I have also used red loctite with a torque wrench. This is not a nut that I want to come loose. Better safe than sorry.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
yep def staked the nut, better than last time... i'll wait a few days driving and check up on it again.. mmmm thanks guys
 

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While 300 ft lbs may sound like a lot, it's not that big of a deal to obtain without huge impact wrenches (I don't even own any). I use a 2 ft Craftsman breaker bar and stand on the VERY end. 150 lbs (me) X 2 ft = 300 ft lbs. Bounce up and down a bit to loosen, just stand on the end to tighten. Stop when it stops turning (imagine or make your own click noise) ;). It has worked for me on the Alfa and on the 928's rear axle many times without issue. Just make sure your breaker bar is stout.
Charles
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Yep that what I tried the second time... but is it not 150 lbs / 2 ft away = 75ft lbs?
 

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but is it not 150 lbs / 2 ft away = 75ft lbs?
Yes...... only in Australia:p In Oz it's lefty tighty righty loosey, right?

Sorry I couldn't resist.

No....The two foot pipe gives more leverage giving more torque.

Paul
 

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Discussion Starter #18
oops oh yes right you are... eeek ;)
 

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Or you could use a 150 ft breaker bar and apply 2 lbs of torque to the very end, your choice. ;) Yeah, the units are ft lbs (or lb ft) NOT feet per pound. :)
Charles
 

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I generally get an assistant to stand on the brake pedal as hard as they can - otherwise there is too much 'flex' as you wind up the drivetrain.

On the breaker bar (I have broken several), I use a tent pole approx. 2m long (7ft) - strangely the pole is thin-walled but does not bend too much. Then I throw my 150-lb (70kg) on the end. Generally speaking, I do the nut up with the same force that was required to undo it.

Personally I don't feel that staking makes much difference. Why? Because even with the nut staked in place, enough torque and you can undo it - the staking is in 'soft' metal and opens itself. Yes, it will prevent the nut from spinning off once it is loose, but why is it working loose - the pre-loading of the bearing must be insufficient?

So I believe the main problem is having the right amount of torque in the first place. I gave up on impact guns a while ago, though I only bought two cheapies. One was sufficient to undo my 164's crank pulley nut, and the other has proved useless for anything! Nothing beats the 7-ft pole...

In NZ, we leave off the -lbs in ft-lbs, in other words, we say it is done up "f-t". ;)

Cheers,
-Alex
 
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