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Discussion Starter #1
I am replacing the rear axle limiter straps on my quad and having a difficult time getting loosening the screws holding the bump stop to the frame. Does anyone have any info on an easy way to remove the screws? I have no problem to undo the 10mm 4 bolts/nuts on the metal clamp that holds the ends of the straps together but the 2 screws holding the bump stop are a real pain.
 

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The area above the bump is hollow and you can spray PB blaster up there and get to the other end of the threads. Sometimes it is filled with mud.
I use an impact screwdriver bit fitted in a socket and use a rachett.
I apply lots of up pressure with one hand and then pop the rachett arm with the other. So far it has always worked on several cars.
Shade tree method.
 

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Good luck! The steel screws passing through the aluminum bump stop seem to become welded together. What I did (after trying the inpact wrench & PB-Blaster) was to cut/burn/pick out the bit of old strap between the bump stop and the body then cut the bolts off above the bump stop. Even drilling off the heads of the screws would not allow the bump stop to come off.

The remnants of the screws then easily came out of the body. But I had to drill out the section of the screws that were still inside the bump stop.

When replacing them, be kind to some future owner (or maybe yourself!) and use lots of anti-sieze. After I had installed the new straps in our Spider I read someone's good idea: slip a piece of heat shrink tube over the portion of the screw that passes through the bump stop! That seems like a good way to prevent the electrolytic reaction between the steel and aluminum that causes so much grief.
 

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I have parted out 2 spiders and 2 GTV's and I was always able to get the screws out with an impact screwdriver or with the bit on a ratchet as suggested. Two of the cars were rusty hulks from 1970 and 1973. Let the penetrating oil soak in for a few hours then go to work with the 'driver.
Ed Prytherch
74 GTV
79 Spider
88 Verde
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Saluti tutti!! thanks for your quick responses and tips. I've been soaking the area with penetrating fluid and also hitting the parts with heavy hammer to vibrate the fluid into the joints, threads, etc. Will try the impact bit and ratchet. If no luck then I like the idea of clearing the old strap out of the joint and cutting the screws (think I'll try sawzall through the strap from the end rather than burning).
 

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Impact Driver

Got my impact driver from Harbor Frieght $7.99, did the trick no damage to screw heads. Good luck
 

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I just did this job on my 1973 Spider. Had absolutely no luck removing the old screws. Had to use the other method and cut them above the aluminum blocks. Then, I drilled out the old screws through the retainer plugs and re-tapped them.

Pain in the arse, but I really had no luck with the impact method.

Those damned aluminum blocks cost me about $80 each. I should have just had the old bolts drilled out.

The other metal piece in there that runs along the top of the straps, between the aluminum block and the chassis, and then curves down is no longer available and I had to make them out of steel from the hardware store.

I hope to never have to replace these straps again!
 

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less corosion

I just did this job on my 1973 Spider. Had absolutely no luck removing the old screws. Had to use the other method and cut them above the aluminum blocks. Then, I drilled out the old screws through the retainer plugs and re-tapped them.

Pain in the arse, but I really had no luck with the impact method.

!
Yep I probably lucked out having a California car. If yours is up in Chicago, probably the corrosion was a lot worse.
 
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