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Hi there

Well - I've extended the garage and now have SWMBO's blessing to buy a weekend drive - had a few alfas in the past but with 3 kids I've sadly been driving Volvo's for the past few years!

Im looking for a 1750 or 2000 GTV in good condition. Does anyone have advice on the average price? or even the price range? Seems to me from carpoint.com that the av. price for a non restored (original engined) 1750 is about 14k and for a 2000 is about 15-16k? is that about right?

any advice greatly appreciated - thanks LE
 

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Yes those prices you have listed are about correct for a reasonable car, however for something really good you will need to spend $25k plus and $35k plus for a close to perfect car which has also been mechanically rebuilt too. There is a big difference in a shiny nice looking 105 GTV compared to a fully restored immaculate vehicle which has had big $$ spent on it, (remember australian wages are high so restoration labour costs are also high as are cost of genuine alfa parts)
 

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Dunno about those prices Laurie. I reckon they are a little high - remember that there is reason those cars have been on carpoint.com for a while - perhaps they are priced too high? I’ve purchased and sold a few 105’s over the past and I reckon they are more like $10k for an average alfa 1750 or 2000 with the original motor and paint. I know a bloke locally who just got a gtv 2000 in pretty good condition out of the local paper for $9.5k. Agree with 105 bandit that for a fully restored you are looking at 25k minimum. You need to shop around I guess.
 

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Hi mate, as a series 1 '69 1750 GTV owner for the past 13 years plus, I know just how good they can be. I agree in part with both the comments on prices. For in a sense they both are correct.

For instance there is a '68 1750 GTV in silver for sale right now for around the $10-12K mark (I think). It seems pretty reasonable and at that price should be ok as a good weekend car but perhaps needing a little work over time to bring it up a level.

I have been watching both here in Aus and overseas the prices of GTVs for many years now. My take from what I have observed in fact is that there are about 4-5 ranges for prices. Restoration cars ranging from approx $1.5-5K. Poor condition but drivable from $6-9K, tidy ones from about $10-14K, really good ones from $15-25, and anything beyond there unto around $40-50K to be in excellent to perfect condition.

In terms of collectibility, the general consensus is that early stepnose cars (1600s) are worth the most, then 1750s, then 2L, stepnose 1300s and lastly flush nose 1300-1600 juniors.

In terms of prices between 1750s and 2L, to my mind it is not really the model that largely dictates their price, but in fact condition.

Rust, tired mechanicals, and worn, damaged or missing trim will lower the value. Believe me 105s can rust and then some. You really need to give them a thorough going over looking for rust, before probably anything else.

The good news is that while parts can be a little pricy, in truth they are not really any more expensive than most classic euro cars. I know as I have had classic Fiats and Alfas all my life. I am currently restoring a '69 Giulia Super.

The other good thing is that parts availability, including panels, mechanicals, etc etc are all readily available both here in Aus from people like Milano Spares in Melb, 105 Factory, Pace, Turin Imports etc, and as well Classic Alfa, Alfaholics, Highwood Motor co, EB Spares in the UK and a number of places in the US who advertise on the Alfabb.

Check out the various websites (especially the UK ones) to get the idea of prices and what is available.

Good luck in the hunt for a GTV.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
thanks so much for that 105 Bandit, Claude and super16 - all very helpful comments :D

the more I look the more I tend to agree with pricing definitions (i.e $1.5-5K = poor $6-9K = tidy, $10-14K = really good, then from $15 - $40k excellent to perfect), but it would appear across all 105's the condition really dictates price over the model. For example there is a great looking red 67 GTV stepnose for $12k which I got a little excitied about - but it seems a bit of a Frankenstein - has a 2L fitted in it plus a series 1(?) 1750 interior (ie flying buttress seats etc..). oh and the fine print says it has a bit of rust "in the usual places". not so excited now.

anyway I’m kind of edging toward a 1750 but if I see a nice 2000 could be convinced also. If anyone knows anyone selling let me know!
 

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I paid 12,000

I paid $12,000 for a 1974 GTV in Perth about 2 years ago. The condition was above average but far from perfect obviously. To get a sense of the standard of car that I purchased for this price you can see some pictures here

http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/gt-1965-1974/152970-basic-tools-beginner-metric-imperial.html

The person that I purcahsed the car from in Perth purchased it from Queensland for $10,000

I feel I may have paid a tad too much, however given how rarely such cars come onto the market it seemed silly to haggle over a small amount

Cileberti Motors in Perth sell tidy/neat 105 GTV 2000 models for around $15,000 - $16,000 on a reasonably regular basis - 2 or 3a year. They a have a web site http://www.cilebertimotors.com.au/

One last point. I do think that the only or perhaps safest way to protect yourself from loss when spending on a car is to try and keep it as original as possible. Money on cars is almost always money wasted in an economic sense but maintaining originality mitigates against some of this loss. Moral = buy as original as you can find
 

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Discussion Starter #7
hey thanks for that. I agree with your comments ' buy as original as you can find'. seems to be no end to modifications out there - the most comment being colour change. I've come across quite a few ochre-nappy-contents-brown change to alfa red for example. I wonder though if colour change will have a significant long term impact on value - even if its from ochre to red!
 

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Oi,there is nothing wrong with giallo ocre, I originally went out to buy a 1750 GTV, asked about the cars condition etc, but had forgotten to ask about the color, while driving up to Adelaide, I started to contemplate about colors...... a grey one or white or red , just anything except for the yellow...of course it turned out to be a yellow ocre one. As it was a really good original car, plenty of dings in it but it ran and stopped really strong, I bought it.
The color has grown onto me, nowadays I really like it and though silver is great for them as well, no regrets about owning an ocre. As for colors, none of my Alfa's is red, got blue, green, white and yellow.
Got it out of the local newspaper, the advertiser and paid less than 6K for it in 2007.
 

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I too tend to agree, buying the most original one you can is ideal, though not always possible. Colour changes are regrettably a little too common, and I too have been guilty of this. But often such matters are dictated by personal likes and dislikes.

Resale Red being the most obvious and common colour change from other colours. I actually really like the Giallo Ochre colour, as it is one which really suits the shape of the 105 GTV.

My GTV is white and I am not a fan of white. So given that I have had this car now for 13 years plus, it is tired on both the exterior and interior, I am afraid that when I get around to restoring mine, I am planning on changing its colour but to what I don't know, but definitely not red. But you never know, perhaps not !!

My Giulia Super has had an external colour change (from a dull burgundy colour to blue) as it was totally rusty and needed new doors, cills etc, but it is not a car I intend selling and I am building it up to suit me. However I kept the interior the same colour, except for changing it from vinyl to leather.

If I were on the market for either a 1750 or 2L these days, as I mentioned previously the first thing I would look at is whether or not there was rust and/or signs of any crash damage, if only minor, then I would consider the state of the hard to find/expensive trims (ie stainless steel parts etc) and lastly the mechanicals. The mechanicals on 105s are robust, but obviously do wear with time. They can be a little expensive, so look out for problems with the gearbox. The common problems being loss of synchro on second gear, (although other gears can loose theirs), also reverse gear lock out failure. That is reverse not holding when you need to use it.

In terms of the engine, the obvious signs such as excessive smoke when starting, accelerating or when de-accelerating (are symptomatic of either rings and bearings or valve stem seals/guides or/burnt valves).

Problems such as missing, running on 3 cylinders can be due to things such as poor timing, poor tuning of the carbies, or possibly head gasket failure. So obviously check the oil and water for any signs of problems. Noisy/clattering sounds in the engine may mean wear of the double timing chains, or worse ie. piston slap. Ouch that means opening up the engine.

The other thing to look for is the state of the suspension both front and rear. If tired you will get all sorts of knocks, squeaks, or even wonky steering/handling. This usually means going right through the suspension, new shocks, bushes, tierods, bearings etc. Again this all adds up in terms of $$$.

Hence the consistent advice of trying to get the best example for your hard earned $.

Test drive any/all you can is often the best option to finding one which suits.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
58_spyder - apologies :eek: I stand corrected about ocre on a 105 - that looks gorgeous!

And super1600 thank you so much once again for the advice - very helpful indeed.

Hopefully in the next few weeks I can start posting pics of my new affair on the
'photos of 105 GT's only' section of alfabb!!!
 
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