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Discussion Starter #1
Team,

I've searched the BB and bent the ear of a couple of buddies and turn now to the BB community. I have a 61 Giulietta Normale 1300 Spider with a Solex 35 with 57,000 miles-she came out of a living estate sale and is in running condition. I want to start a few refresh projects over the winter including a total refresh of fuel, ignition and brakes.

As some may recall, there are 4 nuts clamping the carb to the manifold and there is a factory plastic spacer about 4 mm thick. The length of the studs from the manifold dictate you loosen the nuts till they top out under the bottom of the carb body and then you lift up the carb body another couple MM until you gain enough clearance to remove the nuts and then the carb.

OK-fine-except there is one nut with very very little clearance. I can't get the 11mm open end wrench into the crevice deep enough to be able to loosen the nut. A boxed end wrench seems impossible. My crows foot set has no 11 MM so I'm open to ideas.

What sort of tool modifications did you use to remove that nut? Is it required that I locate a thin stubby wrench and heat with a torch and bend? Grind away part of the head of the wrench? etc etc If so, please post a photo of what worked for you.

Thanks in advance
SW
 

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SW,
My experience is with the C35APAIG Solex on a Giulietta TI, which may be somewhat different from yours.
I use a 7/16" (same as 11mm) open end distributor wrench to remove these Solex mounting nuts. These wrenches are about 3" long, but even so, can only be turned about 1/2 flat at a time.
If your carb has the little hydraulic damper attached to the auxiliary throttle in the secondary choke, you may have to remove that to get at the nut under it. And you probably will need to remove the rod assembly on the acceleration pump to get at the nut under that.
As you note, the nuts are too tall to remove without lifting the carb as you go.
And if you think removal is a b*****, think about re-installation, when you have to get those nuts started while lifting the carb just enough for the nuts to clear the body housing. Then you have to re-attach the damper and the acceleration pump rod/spring.
It's enough to make you want to exchange for a Weber DCD!
Hope this helps,
Don
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Don-you sir, are correct. It's not fun to wrench on. Yeppers-removing the accelerator pump first is essential. Worth knowing is the pump should be filled with ISO32 hydraulic fluid. I'm of the opinion I should just pull the engine and deal with all the little stuff when its on a stand-its tight quarters when you are not a 20 year old who is 5"6' and weighs 135 named Aldo

Mine had been sitting for years so I've boiled out the varnish with Distilled Water and Pine Sol (the original not the citrus-the citrus variants are not aluminum safe)

I'll use some Mother's Aluminum Polish to brighten but not over restore the appearance. Fun times-I took about 100 photos during the take apart
 
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