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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I’m considering replacing the balljoints on my 75 Spider, but have been unable to source Lemforder, or other decent parts. I have no desire to use the cheapo junk that is generally available, despite the low cost. There is a quite a bit of labour involved ( and cost if not DIY) and I cannot wrap my head around the idea of replacing ball joints with virtually each annual oil change!

Any suggestions?
 

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I have these if they work for you ?
New, never used, still in the box from Classic Alfa since 2016.
$70 for the pair (excluding lock nuts which I may have used, if not I will throw those in the package for free).
All plus shipping from CA 94025.

Regards, RJ
 

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Apologies, these are track rod ends, probably not what you need.
Maybe worth a call to Classic Alfa to see if they have what you are looking for.
Regards, RJ
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Somewhat depressing, n’est-ce pas? No sources of quality ball joints? I can get Lemforder tie rod ends, and will do so while still available. But I hope that Alfa Romeo Spiders, with relatively low values, don’t become garage queens as quality replacement parts become increasingly unavailable and owners are fearful of putting on more mileage. Am I missing something? These are, IMHO, meant to be driver’s cars. But its hard to drive a car more than a very few miles a year if even basic, quality replacement parts are no longer available.
 

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I haven't tried them yet but have heard that the ETS ball joints sold by Alfissimo are of good quality.
I have had these in my Spider for a number pf years and they have been fine. I believe that they are a good product.
Top joints are part of the control arm and they do not wear as fast as lower joints. FRAP may be the only choice there but even they seem to do OK in this application.
 
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Lemforder stuff is getting hard to find. I have fitted literally thousands of Frap parts to alfas and never had any issues with quality, fitment, failure or premature wear on a wide range of uses.
Used ETS lower 105 ball joints without any problem. Just my experience/opinion(y)
 

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I had FRAP lower joints that failed after a short time.
 

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They were loose. Tested with a pry bar and confirmed in hand after removal.
 

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If anyone is interested this is the correct way to check 105 front suspension. With regard to the top and lower ball joints you need to kind of get under the wheel, hold it at 6 and 12 and try to lift it up and down.
 

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Pry bar with the suspension loaded?
When removed I could grab the two parts and feel significant movement in the ball joints. No need for semantics on how to test them on the car.
 
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