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Anyone use / have experiecne with this Weber conversion kit?

3K views 14 replies 6 participants last post by  Alfajay 
#1 ·
Not quite 1/2 price from the Centerline one at $1,295. To my newbie eyes it appears to mainly be missing the intake.

Alfa Romeo Genuine Weber Redline Dual 40DCOE Carburetor Kit for Spica Fi | eBay

Any comments or thoughts? BTW - Centerline people are good folks and I've ordered a fair number of things with them, but need to keep very close costs (unfortunately) as I do all my planning for the '66 Sprint.

Thanks in advance.
 
#2 · (Edited)
It is similar to the kit that was originally offered by Shankle and was copied by others including IAP. The conversion is covered in detail in Pat Braden's book "Weber Carburetors".
If you read through threads on the ABB you will find that opinion on this conversion is divided. I have bought two cars that had the conversion and I converted both of them to the Centerline style kit which is the original configuration that was used by Alfa on non-USA cars. I sourced my parts from England and from a Euro parts car and they were not expensive. I think that this kit has one big advantage and that is the throttle cable and big return spring. It is IMO a better arrangement than the mechanical linkage. Again this is my opinion, I don't like the O-ring seals on the adapters. Mine leaked but other people have no problems with them. They also have longer intake lengths which does not leave room for a real air box and you end up using aftermarket filters that are loud and suck in warm air from around the engine.

You may be better with this - http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/alfa-romeo-parts-sale-wanted/374761-fs-weber-conversion-kit.html
 
#5 ·
I also had issues with the O rings. I think you'll be happy with the decision to go with the euro manifold. The only possible problem may be the throttle linkage. I take it this is a spica conversion? You need to have the new horizontal rod come off below the existing horizontal rod (the one on the firewall) instead of above it. I made a collar to weld onto the end of the firewall rod and positioned the new rod you will get with the arm pointing down (after cutting it down so it extends far enough to line up with the bellcrank below the webs) into the female end of the collar. That way you keep the arm the spica used which gives you a throttle stop. I hope that helps.
 
#6 ·
That does help-quite a bit actually. Really appreciate everyone's input and coaching here, this is such a fantastic forum.
 
#8 ·
Thanks guys - in my case I M actually putting a S2 originally SPICA engine into the '66 Spint shell. Does that change of these considerations?
 
#10 · (Edited)
No, it's pretty easy to install the earlier, Weber manifold on a Spica era head. Three "gotchas" I can think of:

- You need shorter studs between the manifold and head. Removing the long studs and sourcing studs of the correct length is the "right" way to do it. But doing it that way risks snapping off an old stud. Hacksawing the studs shorter (without removing them) and running a die to extend the threads works just fine.

- You will need a block-off plate for the place where the Spica pump mounts on the front cover. Alfa parts suppliers sell them.


- You need a European bypass hose between the Weber manifold and the water pump - it is shaped differently from the hose that works with the Spica manifold. Centerline carries these under P/N RH480.
 
#9 ·
The linkage should already be in place. It's actually easier with the webs and euro manifold since everything is already there on the 66.
 
#14 ·
I had a Shankle conversion on my car when I bought it. I was never satisfied because the carbs could not be braced with this setup (new brace is available from Centerline). If you get a true European manifold (used) and get rid of the Spica manifold, in my opinion, it is a better setup - the carb operation will be more consistent because the carbs don't move around like they will with the Shankle setup.

This setup will require a new throttle linkage and a Euro GTV linkage can be hard to find. I am using a Euro Spider linkage which works well if you make about a 1" extension for the accelerator pedal. It is not easy to change the linkage with the engine in the car but it is possible. If you go this route, be sure to install new linkage bushings on the firewall.

Sid
74 GTV
 
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