So, the clutch slave cylinder on the 16-year-old's 78 spider died. Luckily, I had a rebuild kit and replaced the seals, no problem. But the system won't bleed.
Even with the bleeder in the upper position, air is entering at the nipple. The nipple hole is so worn in the cylinder that, unless it is tightened down completely, it wobbles terribly.
Now, this is the transportation for a teenager and the blackness of her mood is directly proportional to the unavailability of a way to get around. I can (and will) order a new slave cylinder from IAP tomorrow. However, with the impending US holiday, the chances are not good that I can get it this week.
Has anyone ever drilled and re-tapped the slave cylinder for a new bleeder screw? Is it worth doing?
Try a few wraps of teflon pipe tape around the bleed screw's threads. Speed bleeders use some sort of thread sealer. Just avoid getting it beyond the threads. The actual seal - when you tighten down the bleed screw - is where the conical end of the bleed screw fits into the bottom of the recess. If the bleed screw hole's threads are stripped you can get repair kits to install a new bleed screw. But a new cylinder is likely a better repair.
Also, I have always had difficulty bleeding clutch hydraulics unless I start with a totally new system. You are trying to push air down hill... Try reverse bleeding. Get a large syringe and short length of plastic tube, fill the syringe with brake fluid, attach to the bleed screw with the hose, open the bleed screw and push fluid up to the master cylinder (make sure you don't over fill the reservoir and make a paint-removing mess). That way you are pushing air 'up' - the way it wants to go.
The bleeder seals fine, when fully seated. It's only when the screw is opened for bleeding that it wobbles. Maybe tape will help.
The MC is new, as is the flex-hose to the slave cylinder. The hard line is undamaged, but it is not fastened by the clips to the car, leading me to conclude the PO did some "work" to the circuit before.