Actually, I was just researching that. Looking in the manual, it talks about how to remove sealant. But I don't see a spec on what sealant to use. There is a gray residue left on the engine block. I was going to get some gasket sealant cleaner to wipe that off. Any recommendation for what sealant to use?
Liner height is good:0.02mm.
I’m concerned after reading another thread from you, and the manual as well that said the cam #1 lobes should be facing away from each other wehn the timing marks line up, and the front pulley marks line up. Mine are facing inwards. It seemed the only way to get the master key accessible. Do i have a problem for reassembly? As long as i dont move the engine and put the cams back in he same orientation., should be ok, right? Please say yes!
The cams have two marks - 180* apart. When the #1 cylinder's lobes are facing away from each other the #1 piston is at TDC on the compression stroke. When the lobes are facing toward each other it is at TDC after the exhaust stroke (#4 at TDC on its compression stroke).
Right. So my engine and cams are currently in the latter state: lobes inward, #1 at TDC after exhaust stroke. But will this be an issue for reassembly? As long as i have the cams back in the same orientation?
In my case, i overlooked the ‘lobes pointing out’ part and removed the head with the lobes inwards. All marks lined up and the master key was up top. So I’ll proceed with re assembly in the same status and see what happens.
Amazing what you find doing a job like this: while cleaning around the engine i saw the lower coolant hose from the thermostat to the water pump was a bit swollen. Looking inside it, it seems to be the valve of an old thermostat! Like a snake having just ate a rat!
That cant be good for circulation!
Finally getting back to reassembly. Thanks to this BB, I think I’ve saved a lot of time by doing it right (mostly): masterlink on the timing chain in the right direction, sealant only on the the back drain area, manifold snug but not reefed on too tight, head bolts wet torqued in stages, new Mobil 1 oil filter in place, valve clearance confirmed.
Even found the thread from Jim G and spiderseries4 with the link to find the elusive injector adaptor ring from a 2005 Ford Mustang fits the Alfa.
Now to put the rad back in, hook up the plenum and injectors, etc. hoping the goof up with the lobes pointing inward doesn’t cause an issue.
Anyone know if the 22mm drain nut on the engine block is supposed to have a gasket?
Once i got that fuel injector seat seal from DiFatta Bros, i was able to get a wrench on!
And it fired up first crank.
Beautiful day for a ride with the top down as a test drive. Don’t see any leaks.
Thanks to all the Alfisti on this BB for the tips.
She runs at a cool 185F now!
Does anybody have a suggestion on how to best transport a road bike with a S3 ('86) spider graduate? There does not seem to be much on this topic, but I'm guessing there must be cyclists among Alfa Spider enthusiasts. Anybody know of a bike rack that works (reasonably) well w/o requiring major...
Having dealt with a sticky passenger side up button I decided to disassemble the switch and clean it up. All went well until I reconnected it to the harness and found that driver's side up and passenger side down do not respond at all. I was careful to reassemble but no luck. Is there a "trick"...
I've been working for weeks to get all the electrical on my 84 spider back to normal. The direction I've gotten from everyone here has been incredible. My last challenge is the seatbelt warning light/buzzer. I've studied the wiring diagram and I've tested the circuits. Here's what I know...