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local guy had 3 cases of the original Kendall 10-40, 20-50. I bought em all for 60 bucks. Green oil -- working great in my 1750 and 2L .
 

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According to the data sheet VR1 is 1400PPM.
same company says 1300 (1400 for the not street legal VR1) and that the particular Zinc/Phosphorus is OK for cats.
you can't believe anything anyone says online (the fact they call it Racing, when it's about as racing as olive oil!)....its just a decent modern mineral oil with some protection.

Anyway, I have used VR1 for 10 years in my car and the cat exhaust emmissions tests (mandatory in Germany) haven't changed hardly at all in that time.
 

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same company says 1300 (1400 for the not street legal VR1) and that the particular Zinc/Phosphorus is OK for cats.
you can't believe anything anyone says online (the fact they call it Racing, when it's about as racing as olive oil!)....its just a decent modern mineral oil with some protection.

Anyway, I have used VR1 for 10 years in my car and the cat exhaust emissions tests (mandatory in Germany) haven't changed hardly at all in that time.
As I said for non-emissions cars the 10 50 hotrod oils are outstanding My cams look like a mirror..
 

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"Not recommended for extended use in vehicles with catalytic converters."

I have no dog in this fight - simply reading the label.
Well that is something those running a car with a cat needs to be aware of. That would surely be a an awkward decision owners of late Spiders need to consider, the engine is old technology, so needs zinc in the oil, but as the car has a cat, if you do use an oil with zinc you could damage the cat. I guess there may well be a lower % of zinc, say just under 1000PPM that would provide the protection but not wreck the cat. Any suggestions?
 

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same company says 1300 (1400 for the not street legal VR1) and that the particular Zinc/Phosphorus is OK for cats.
you can't believe anything anyone says online (the fact they call it Racing, when it's about as racing as olive oil!)....its just a decent modern mineral oil with some protection.

Anyway, I have used VR1 for 10 years in my car and the cat exhaust emmissions tests (mandatory in Germany) haven't changed hardly at all in that time.
Indeed and that attachment covers it, no more than 1300ppm is recommended and there is enough choice of oils around to tick that box.
 

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Holy crapola.... what oil then is the best for a state that has the toughest emission laws in the union? I guess I need to do more research!
 

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It will take a long time for the zinc to kill the cat. Remember zinc was in oil until they started phasing it out in the mid to late 90's. Fully out of oil in the 2000's. The reason car manufacturers wanted it is the EPA increased the milage for free replacement on cat's. At that point no car manufacturers were using flat tappet cams. So they no longer needed it. High amounts of zinc above 1200 to 1400 are not need in a road engine. Amounts above that and on into the 2000 range are for pure race engines that are torn down after each race.

Zinc very slowly stops up a cat. So its not something that happens right away. Or people would have been replacing cat's at a very high rate all through the 70's and into the late 90's.
 

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Rich from Continental motors did a engine swap for my after I broke the piston rings on number 3 piston. The engine he put in had 110,000 miles on it and he had been maintaining this engine for 10 years before the spider was total in a wreck. This engine runs very smooth and I have been on a lot of runs with it. Bottom line is Rich told me to only run Kendall 20w-50 in it and so I do. You can buy a cheaper oil but why? The cost of oil is a small price to pay for good protection for your engine!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

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I have used diesel oil in my no cat Alfa Spiders and it works great. Higher zinc content - yes! Just make sure it's okay for gas engines. Some diesel oils are not compatible.

On my 1980 Spider, I use 15W50 Mobil One from Walmart. A 5 gallon jug is twenty to thirty bucks and it's 100% synthetic.

My mechanic told me he thinks I should use Mobil One 15W50 on my older Spiders. He really likes Mobil One and since I do drive the car hard at times, he feels it's going to give better protection with minimum thermal breakdown.

Note that I'm in Los Angeles and I drive my Spider on days when it's over 100 deg F. The temp gauge gets close to 210 on the pre-cat cars and higher on the 1980. All that smog stuff and burning a bit lean makes the motor run hot.
 

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If you want to read about motor, try this page:
 

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I did a search for oil weights, and I found a few references to 20 w 50 and 10w40 oil for 29 spider engines. I went to several autoparts, as well as searching online, and when it comes to synthic oils, there is only high mileage in 10-40, and nothing like 20-50. my engine is rebuild, and has a little more than 1000 miles, so high mileage does not make sense. I really prefer castrol oil, been using it for years, but it seems they do not sell this weight. so, my question is, what are you guys doing? I feel that syn oil is the way to go, but I would have to use like 5-30 or something similar. or am I crazy...thanks guys.
After many years of studying tribology and comparison of micro additives and having a '69 1750 spider with low mileage, my solution to this frequently asked question is to use Fully synthetic Mobil 1 15W50 and fully warm up the engine before driving. It has elevated, but not too high, levels of Zn and P. I'll attach the company's list for you. I've also run this by several pro alfa racers and rebuilders. Too much Zn and P will accelerate wear and cause metallic deposition on the cam lobes and flattish tappets that we have and can cause GALLING. DO NOT ADD MORE THAN 4-6 OZ OF ANY ZDDP TYPE ADDITIVE.
I did a search for oil weights, and I found a few references to 20 w 50 and 10w40 oil for 29 spider engines. I went to several autoparts, as well as searching online, and when it comes to synthic oils, there is only high mileage in 10-40, and nothing like 20-50. my engine is rebuild, and has a little more than 1000 miles, so high mileage does not make sense. I really prefer castrol oil, been using it for years, but it seems they do not sell this weight. so, my question is, what are you guys doing? I feel that syn oil is the way to go, but I would have to use like 5-30 or something similar. or am I crazy...thanks guys.
After much research and discussions with professional alfa motor rebuilders and racers as well as investigating the composition of modern oils for flattish tappets with STLE (THE SOCIETY OF TRIBOLOGY AND LUBRICATION EXPERTS) as well as MOBIL ONE DIVISION, The best oil for an alfa that has been broken is one high in P and Zn. Too high levels can accelerate wear by metal deposition on the cam lobes and tappets and cause falling. MOBIL 1 FULLY SYNTHETIC has augmented levels of P , Zn, with Boron and is by far the most researched. It can be had in 5 quart containers at Walmart for under $27. I'll attach the Mobil 1 oil spec sheets. It is safe to add 4-6oz of a ZDDP COMPOUND WITHOUT EXCEEDING RECOMMENDED LEVELS..
 

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By far after much Research with alfa rebuilders, Mobil 1, STLE (the SOCIETY of tribology and lubrication EXPERTS), and personal experience in lubrication science, FULLY SYNTHETIC MOBIL 1, (15W50) is the best oil for alfa motors after break-in as it contains augmented levels of Zn, P, and Boron as well as other proprietary additives. You can safely add 6 oz of a ZDDP additive without exceeding levels that would cause galling. See attached. Rob at inventdoc
Screenshot_20191128-200951_Word.jpg
 

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I did a search for oil weights, and I found a few references to 20 w 50 and 10w40 oil for 29 spider engines. I went to several autoparts, as well as searching online, and when it comes to synthic oils, there is only high mileage in 10-40, and nothing like 20-50. my engine is rebuild, and has a little more than 1000 miles, so high mileage does not make sense. I really prefer castrol oil, been using it for years, but it seems they do not sell this weight. so, my question is, what are you guys doing? I feel that syn oil is the way to go, but I would have to use like 5-30 or something similar. or am I crazy...thanks guys.
 

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Below is a definitive article as to comparison, if you accept cookies it will allow a search by using f3 key a dialog box pops up and you can search a specific oil. There is about 286 pages ...

 
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