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Discussion Starter #1
So, it's not going to be as uber as cchan's restoration project. Mine will be more step-by-step extended over time. First my aim now is to fix the body, and paint her. I'm also rebuilding the engine at the moment. Secondly I'm gonna take care of suspension, interior & trim. About, the car; I bought her 1,5 year ago it's a 1985 Zender, all round koni yellows. The car was originally burgundy metallic, previous owners repaited the car twice, first red, then "british racing green wannabe metallic"
Hope this thread may be iseful to some bb'ers :)
That's how the car looked few months ago:


I started with pulling the engine out:
I want ITB's:D


Stripping her was much more difficult many nuts/screws/bolts were rusty and many of them broke. My buddy (he's a SAAB freak) helped me with it. :)


And though it's an alfiat, 146's have nice freighting capabilities:D


After that, I took her to the bodywork mechanic; she's now bassically a shell on four wheels.


Happily no rust under those nasty Zender sideskirts


Ok as I'm missing some of the photos of early stage of body restoration, so that's what was wrong with her:
-Rotten "A" struts - where they meet fenders - usual spot
-Bad Rust in engine bay wall where it meets left fender
-Everything below windscreen was pretty badly eaten by rust.
-huge corrosion below on driver's seat floor compartment, this had to be cut out abot 40cm x 50cm piece
- few smaller rusty spots on the floor.
- rust on both sideskirts on inner sides
- spare wheel area badly eaten by rust
- only very minor rustspots located in few other places
Welding is flat and continous.

As the rust in engine compartment was pretty bad and the left "A" strut was in bad shape left fender had to be cut out. Here welded in:


Pic from the engine bay


New floor recreated and welded back in. Mechanic did a good job.


Right "A" strut base recreated and welded


Left "A" just as it looked before repair. Already fixed.


And both sideskirts fixed:



And bad rust in the trunk


Hopefully I'll take her to the spray shop next week.

PS. STILL LOOKING FOR THE MIRRORS, anyone?:D
 

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Looks like a good project, keep the pictures coming!!!
 

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PS. STILL LOOKING FOR THE MIRRORS, anyone?
A friend has a set of power mirrors of his GTV6 (now a race car). Let me know if you are interested and I'll put the two of you in touch.

Cool project!

Jes
 

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Good Project

Hi PietereQ,

I like your GTV6 with the Zender Kit. Looks like a good project and have fun. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I found that the fuel tank had light some rust spots on the lower section, I stripped the paint and rust to bare, healthy metal, and resprayed, the tank with black gloss anti-corrosion paint. Manufacturer caims this should do it for 8 years ;) we'll see
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Ok so here's some progress on the project... undercoat, and waiting for the "rosso farina"



Baffingly, I'm missing the stock plastic hood cover, i thougt it was under, the Zender cover, but not. Maybe a nice transparent plexiglass cover? :D


Glass-blasted plenum & powder coated valve covers, AKA "carpet preview"

rebuilt engine
 

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It looks like you are off to a great start, can't wait for the finished product. BTW, how hard is it to take the glass out?
 

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Nice work! Keep it up...

Sorry, maybe I missed it - while out - did you do any rebuild to the motor...?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
5yearplan, in my particular case the windshield gasket had to be cut. This was a precaution due to a very very small chip, and in vast majority of cases, chips grow into huge cracks while taking the glass out. But what I know if you're very patient and precise, there's no problem to take the windsheld out with intact gasket, it's just a bit tricky.

junglejustice, my engine had really bad compression, but fortunately after thorough inspection the valves were the fault, rest was ok, so by the rule: if something is ok don't take it to pieces. Moreover it came out that one cam was slipped by one tooth, so I'm wondering how this engine with all bad compression, misalligned timing, 160K Km mileage, produced 150 crank hp at the dyno...that was before I started the resto project. Looking forward for some hp gain :D
I still don't know which way should I go, turn it into track day car, or into something more civilized...
BTW did you know that zender thingie sticking on the hood weighs nearly 7 kilos! This is evil! And it's not going to be back on my car :)
 

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Zender Thingy

Hi Pietere,

With that body kit and wheels combo, I would say that car looked like a Chapparral GTV-6! The unterior would have been uprated as well though.
They also got 200+ ponies out of the engine as well.

If your worried about 14lbs, don't date fat girls, keep the Zender hood scoop dude & have something that looks a little different (and good). Also, since you are already having extensive body work done, I'd pass on the stock rearview mirrors (might lose 14lbs right there!) and get a pair that look like these:
frntchap.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #12
ToonR, I have made my mind with zender buldge already, I prefer the stock sleek look, I was thinking of selling the bluldge and rear spoiler as well, but on the other hand these cars came out like this from factory, so maybe better to store it in case i would like to come back to the original.
Fat girls? Naaaaw that's not going to happen :D
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Latest news on the project:






The color is Rosso Farina wchich is very very red, you can't see it actually, cause these are low quality photos I made with cellphone.
...Actually this red is p0rn:D
 

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Looks like you are making good progress. The color looks orange on account of the cell phone, you will have to take some good photos once it's all done.
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
Brought car home 2 days ago, yesterday me and my friend finished installing engine harness, cooling system...






And temporal "alfetta wannabe" bodykit




...yet there's still problem with starting the engine, I very strongly believe that, i have connected everything, the engine catches,
and dies after few revs of the crankshaft. Tried with other good condition ECU and the same... any ideas?
 

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My guess is that you're loosing signal to the fuel-pump (once you release the key...)

An UGLY (but simple) test - keep cranking the key even after the engine lights up - DON'T rev it high - just see if it keeps running IF you keep the key cranked!? In that case, the first "phase" of the fuel-pump relay signal (from the key) works, but the 2nd "phase" signal (from the AFM) that is supposed to take over when it starts and you release the key - fails...!

DON'T DO IT LONG - DON'T SMOKE THE STARTER - Just see BRIEFLY if it still dies if you keep the key cranked!

There are "cleaner" ways of testing this with an ohm meter, but I am unsure of the pins between the AFM and the double relay. Basically the movement of the AFM flapper generates a signal that takes over from the key-cranking signal (once the car starts and you release the key!)

Personally, I'd rip all of that stuff out all of the way to the double relay (including the restrictive AFM) and install a programmable stand-alone fuel and ignition system. (Especially if you are seriously considering turning it in to a street/track car!)

There is a bunch of power to be had right there for you, you get a nice new custom plug and play harness (including all of the injector harness cracked connectors and such replaced) and you can now map (compensate) for present or future modifications to the mechanical unit (such as a porting and a higher compression rebuild, more cam, headers, bigger intakes, a 24 valve upgrade or a supercharger!)

700 bucks USD - you tune the car and manage issues like this!

Any way - very nice project - post some better pictures of the paint please! We'd love to see it.

Keep at it!
 

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You can always manually push the flap in the AFM with the key on and you should hear the fuel pump run and the sound of fuel going through the fuel pressure regulator. At the same time you will also hear the double relay on the firewall click. Use a test light to verify that you are not losing 12 volts when you let go of the key after staring. This would point you to the ignition switch.
Good lock,
Paul
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Jungle, you were correct I did as you suggested, the engine would idle with key cranked and would even rev higher. So I guess the Double relay is the fault. I forgot to mention that all electrical harness on my gtv6 was soaked. It happened when a guy in the spray shop pulled her outside, and of course there was she with naked harness in the shower:mad:
Proper color pics soon :)
 

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The car looks great!
My double relay/AFM combo didn't like me. Every now and then I'd have to disconnect the battery then unplug and plug them back in or the car wouldn't start. Silly Italians.
 
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