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Discussion Starter #1
where is the hood release on the 92 spider, I popped the release in the cab, but can't figure out where to outside release is....

this is in worse shape than I thought, the guages don't work, windows don't open. cluch is really low to the floor, I hope that is just a ajustment...problem with Ebay. if you don't ask the right questions, you don't get the right answers.
 

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There are no dumb questions. No outside release, its hinged at the front, open from rear. See if you can find an owners manual and shop manual on ebay for help also.
 

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1969 Alfa Spider 1750 veloce.
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check the fuses and grounds. These are the most common faults with electrical. As for the clutch, check fluid, i think you can adjust the pedal a tad.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
yes, I definatly need a shop manual...that is good advice...

car looks good from outside...filthy inside. I will spend a few hours tomorrow cleaning...and trying to get the hood open...when I pop the inside release, the hood seems to move slightly, but I can't get my fingers under anyplace. it is also not aligned right, needs ajustment I guess. perhaps that is why I can't get it open...anyway thanks for the advice, I will check the cluck fluid. and look for a manual.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I am in Staten island NY...thanks for the links, I will check them out
 

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what part?
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we need photos!!!:):) esp with pretty girls next to the car:):) a pretty girl next to an alfa , will make any alfa look good :):)
 

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when I pop the inside release, the hood seems to move slightly, but I can't get my fingers under anyplace. it is also not aligned right, needs ajustment I guess. perhaps that is why I can't get it open.
Hmm. The Alfa hood just has a single stage latch. Since the hood is hinged at the front, there is no need for a "safety catch" like on cars with the hood hinged at the rear. My point being that the latch either releases or it doesn't - there's nothing to try to reach with your fingers around the latch mechanism.

Maybe pulling the cable farther will get the latch to cooperate. Look at where the cable connects to the lever under the dash. Does it seem to be adjusted OK? That is, when you pull the lever, does the cable pull out much? If not, using pliers to pull it out more may actuate the latch. Or having a helper try to push the hood left or right (eg, correcting its mis-alignment) while you pull the cable may free it.

It is pretty hard to get at the hood latch mechanism with the hood closed. Once you get it opened, try to fix the problem before letting it close again.

Adding a second cable to create an outside hood release is a good idea. This has been covered here on the BB.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
after a load of messing, I got it open. I think the hood is not lined up properly, so that will be a priority...but I am finding that many things electrical are not working. I checked all the fuses, and they are all OK, but I do notice a lot of corosion, I am hoping there has not been like water damage..I can fix simple things electrical in my house, but cars are a bear to fix....I hope I am not in over my head...anyway, thanks for the responce on the hood. have to mess around with that.
 

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71 Berlina 74 GTV 17 Giulia Q4
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fuse contacts and tips of fuses should be cleaned if you have the old VW type fuses, good luck on your journey!
 

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1966-2013
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The plastic w/two legs are blade fuses and are the better type to have.
The sorta problematic bullet fuses dissapeared sometime in '86 so wouldn't be found in your '92.

Suggestion regarding the hood:
Now that its open, mark and remove the mechanism on the firewall while fiddling with the alignment.
This will allow you to open and close lotsa times w/o having to reach into the cabin at every attempt and will totally avoid it potentially getting stuck shut during the process if there is actually an issue with the latch mechanism or cable.

When the hood is where you want it, put in an emergency release system right now, not when you decide you'll fiddle with it, not when you get around to it, not next week when you've got more time to run to the store, not before you drop the hood on the latch for the first time after tweaking, right now, while the hood is open and you're working on that stuff anyway. (info and pix can be found in the FAQ)
I absolutely gaurentee you'll fully appreciate its presence should the release lever system ever fail.

Then, reinstall the catch to the marks and work on the cable. (don't mess with the sleeve anchor other than to make sure the sleeve actually is anchored, you wanna work the actual cable loop on the pivot arm of the mechanism)
Adjust it so that pulling the release lever turns the 'arrowhead' as much as possible consistantly (up to 90 degrees IIRC, but working the arm on the mechanism manually will show you how much it can go for sure), yet has just a smidge of slack at the lever when its in the rest position.
Conversely, you could just go for the 'adjust til there is a tiny bit of slack at the lever' alone, but it always pays to at least look at the range of motion of the mechanism just to be sure.
This will help ensure that the latch can actually move enough to release the catch in the hood, thus the hood should consistantly open for you.

You will likely need to subtly fiddle the mechanism and or catch plate positioning to get a good clean latch and no forced misalignment of the hood when it closes on it.
Prolly even messing with the bump stops along the edges of the engine bay will be in order too.
They should just touch the inside of the hood and apply no pressure against it other than the minimum needed to keep the lid at the proper height in relation to the fender edges as they are there for vibration damping and a bit of support, not as compression bumpers.

When all said and done, you should be able to close the hood by setting it down gently and pressing it shut with thumb and 2~3 fingers pressing on it above the latch area, and it should pop right up when the release is pulled.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
sounds like good advice, I will remove the latch, I have been afraid to close the hood
 

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1966-2013
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For future use, once you get the hood all nice, where you want it, and snugged down at the hinges, drill a 1/8" hole through each hinge into the hood.
That way should you ever need to remove the hood, all you need do to get it realigned is put the shank of a 1/8" drill bit or even a nail into the holes to line everything right back up for tightening.
 

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Bob,

When I ressurected my Spider from an 8-year slumber, I replaced all of the fuses. No testing, no fooling around, it's not worth the time. The blade-type fuses are plentiful and cheap - just get new ones. I cleaned the fuse box contacts with a thin emery board (a popsicle stick wrapped with fine sandpaper will also work). Just stick the end of the board between the contacts and shine 'em up. Blow out the residue and install all new fuses. When I did this, many electrical components started working better - some that hadn't been working started functioning just fine. Also, clean all of the ground contacts that you can find. You will probably get similar results.
 
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