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Discussion Starter #81
Rack

I did not remove the rack. It is fairly easy to remove the spring/damper without removing the rack. When I got it off, the internals were just flopping around inside the tube. Since I wanted to be rid of this, I did not diagnose the failure mode. (If you need parts, I can pull the box out of the attic and see what I have that is still good.)

To convert to the non-damped setup without removing the rack, I had to cut off the top part of the outboard mounting ear with a hacksaw (not fun), and fabricate a special boot.
 

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Thanks for the info. I'll have to take a look one of these days to see if that is the problem with mine. The steering is not twitchy or loose, but lighter than it used to be by a bit. Ball joints are new, and the tie rods are still ok.
 

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Discussion Starter #83
LF Corner

Got this corner back together. Will put new brake pads on the other side, do a front end toe adjustment, and do some driving for a while, before I tear into the RF.
 

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Discussion Starter #85
Rust

I have not found any rust thru in the front and mid sections of the unibody; just some minor surface rust spots. I have never had the rear wheels up or off since I bought the car. I did have the drivers side skirt off, and the body panels were perfect under it. ALL of the black powder coated, bolt on parts had bad surface rust and the ABS mounting bracket had some rust thru.
 

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Discussion Starter #87
RF Corner

During January I repeated the process from the LF corner on the RF corner.
Everything was the same.
Now I will drive around for a while, then tackle the rear suspension and brakes.
 

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Discussion Starter #88
Trips; Rear Suspension and Brakes Next

I drove the 164 to FL and back 3 times since Xmas. Put in about 1600 miles on the last trip that I just returned from.

IF you get the cruise control working properly (speedo and inhibit switches on the brake and clutch pedals have to work properly, and the actuator cable tension has to be adjusted), and you get the AC working properly, and you get the wipers sorted so that they are not banging on the rear edge of the hood, and you put an electric cutoff valve in the heater hose, and you add a decent cup holder or two, and you get the low fuel warning light sorted so that it is not blinking at you for half a tank, you have a really nice highway cruiser. Frankly, I would rather be driving this than about any 2018 4 door sedan.

And if you don’t live in FL and you get the seat heaters working (I had to bypass 3 of the 4 thermostats on mine), you will get so spoiled by having heated seats, that you will never want to have a car without heated seats.

I plan on putting the car back in the garage shortly, and restoring the rear suspension and brakes. I am figuring on a month or 2 for that.
 

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my r/r corner of the trunk was worse than your s(which does not look too bad). I think the culprit is the gravel shield under the right side of the underbody-trunk as the sunroof water splashes onto this and it may not really dry out down there. At least, that's where it seemed to have started and all of the mounting points had issues.
 

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Discussion Starter #93
Rear Wheel Bearings

I mentioned in another thread that I was going to need at least one rear hub, as one of my rear wheel bearings had been groaning for a while. To play with the rear hubs, I first had to remove the rear calipers, as I discovered that 3 of the 4 slider pins on the rear calipers were totally frozen. Since the caliper wasn't sliding correctly, the inner pads were showing much more wear than the outers. I was servicing (and painting) the rear calipers anyway, so no problem there.

Once I got the calipers out of the way, I could spin and shake the rear wheels by hand. I determined that the RR had just a hair of play, but was noisy when spun. The LR was smooth and quiet when spun, but had way too much play in the bearing. So I decided to replace both rear hubs. I ordered one from a liquidator on eBay, verified that it was OK when received, then ordered the second.

I made a tool from a pipe flange to simulate the factory slide hammer attachment, and put it on a small slide hammer that I had. You don't need a big slide hammer, as the outer race is a very light press fit in the hub.

Pictured is the RR hub after separation. The grease looks horrible; it has all turned to clay. The bearing looks so bad that I can't believe that it can go down the road without burning up. The LR looks almost as bad.
 

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That is ugly. What bearing number? I may do mine as I have to bleed the brakes anyway and a refurb may be in order.
 

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Discussion Starter #95
More Rust

The rear suspension bits were significantly more rusty than the fronts. Springs and upper strut mounts were a lot worse than the fronts.

A fair amount of surface rust around the trailing arm mounts. Both sides were about the same. Obviously this should be addressed before it becomes rust thru, or this will be a big problem. Picture shows situation after scraping off the flaking paint and undercoating.

So I think people should keep an eye on these areas, and take appropriate action.
 

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Yep my rear drivers strut literally rotted out and collapsed.
 

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Yowie, that's rust. Don't see that here. When I rebuilt the S struts several years ago, everything was clean, even the long lower bolts.
 

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Discussion Starter #98
Rear Back Together

Car is back on the road. Painted springs, sway bar, spindles, etc. Painted calipers red. New rear hubs went on fine. Car is a lot quieter without the rear wheel bearings groaning. I did not remove the rear crossmember or the 4 lateral links. The crossmember needs painting and some straightening, and all 4 lateral links are bent. Before I got the car, somebody jacked the car up in the middle of the lateral links on both sides.

In the fall I will work on the crossmember and lateral links; will only have to re-remove one bolt per side.

Rear bumper is still off the car; will work on that this summer.
 

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Discussion Starter #100
Rear Skirt

I mentioned that I left the rear bumper off while I am driving around this summer. Since I will paint all of the gray lower trim, I decided to first fix the waves in the rear S skirt. Finished with the fiberglass filler. Just need a final application of glaze and primer.
 

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