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I think the worst aspect of the calipers is the trouble of getting at them. This won't be solved by using another make.
Valid comment, but with modern self adjusting calipers you only need to get to them to change pads. With the [email protected] Alfetta/Sud calipers you need to adjust them or your hand brake does not work ... F that!

Considering rear brakes don't do much, you will only need to access modern self adjusting brakes in frequently (pad changes).
Pete
 

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I have just finished rebuilding the rear calipers on my 6. I can honestly say that it is a fiddly but absolutely doable task for anyone with 2 hands and a fair tool set, oh and a rebuild kit. It took me 2 days, but i only worked a couple of hours at night. Big results. Car now stops the way it should. Top tip for anyone planning on doing this, ensure that you have a good quality c clip plier tool, and plenty engine/brake part cleaner and raggs.
 

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psk. . . so why 03'mazda3. Is it just price and availability?
When I made that post I had just changed rear pads on my sons Mazda 3 :), but there are many modern alternatives.
Pete
 

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ok . . so what you are saying is most newer calipers are more user friendly? I was hoping for a newly discovered gem that we all could use as an alternative. :smile2: would have been a nice fluke
 

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After reading this thread, I am considering tackling the rebuild of one of my rear disc calipers for my 1979 Alfetta GT/Sprint Veloce.

Can anyone chime in on what may keep an in-board caliper piston from retracting? The adjustment screw will extend/compress the piston for the outermost 1/8 of travel, but I cannot get it to retract enough for new pad installation. The out-board piston works as intended.
 

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Well, I'm not planning on ever re-assembling this caliper, I took it apart for two reasons:
1. to see what's inside (it's curiosity that killed the cat)
2. to get a rubber seal for my Alfa Sei rear caliper. A Sei's rear brake is very similar to the GTV's, but it can be taken apart much easier. (Which shall not be confused with "being actually EASY".) I found the Sei's handbrake operating lever's seal was worn badly (it wasn't installed correctly to begin with) and therefore I put my mind to acquiring a spare seal from an unused GTV caliper. They are identical. (See pic. Distortion is very evident.)
Oh, and the Sei lacks the 7mm adjuster! Instead it sports a two-piece adjusting mechanism, consisting of an inner "adjuster" and an outer "fastener" screw. Something like the GTV's outer caliper adjuster. I'll post some pics of it, and I'll take better pics of the GTV brake too.
Meanwhile I added comments to the first pic. It's actually not as fearsome as it looks. I followed steps 1-4 to disassemble the caliper. However I DO NOT encourage anybody to do this and take no responsibility if someone breaks something, especially him- or herself (after ruining something or putting the caliper back together not-so-perfectly and failing to stop the car).
I'll try to take out the 7mm screw, but it's fixed by an almost-impossible-to-remove ring and corroded in place. However, I don't think it's that important. If the 7mm is leaking fluid, than the problem shouldn't be with its seal, but the rubber seal on the piston shaft (visible between the threaded part and the gear). This is supposed to seal the fluid chamber, and the outer seals (at the 7mm and at the handbrake lever) are just there to keep the gears greased and are NOT designed to withstand brake pressure. Grease and brake fluid aren't supposed to mix anyway; if the fluid reaches the 7mm adjuster, your piston shaft seal is blown to hell. (The other half of the caliper has a seal just like that on the shaft, and nothing else between the fluid chamber and the outside of the caliper.) Well, what do you think?
Biba: yeah, almost every transaxle car has the same rear brake system, but I heard that the Sprint and Roadster Zagatos had ventilated rear discs. Even there the calipers were the same, but with spacers just like you said.
Al_cam: well, my only advice concerning the bleeding is: try NOT to run out of fluid from the front reservoir, because this stupid mistake can really prolong the story. I had to begin anew about six or seven times when it bled dry... and again... and again... and then my girlfriend asked: "Hey, what if you kept an eye on that blasted fluid level? I'm getting a wee bit tired of pumping this pedal."
any idea where i can get the seal that goes to the lever?
 

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