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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Since most people never in their lives have seen an almost completly disassambled GTV rear brake caliper, here it is for the educated audience's viewing pleasure. Or at least half of it is here, but it's the more interesting part, with the handbrake operating assembly.
Behold; all that stuff is in the rear brake of an Alfetta or Milano. (First pic shows all the stuff, other two are closer looks. The 7mm screw for the inner brake pad alignment is still in the caliper. I'm not sure if removing it is a goal that mortal mankind was meant to achieve.)
Of course, most of this stuff NEVER goes and CANNOT go wrong, is very hard to remove and almost impossible to put together again, so this information falls far short from being actually useful; that's why it was brought to you by the "IC again has too much free time, why didn't we give him some USEFUL work to do?" Foundation.
 

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IC, you're a braver guy than me. However, since you've gone this far do make sure you replace the seal (I'd guess flat O-ring) for the inner pad adjusters. This is the real weak spot of the system - as most likely you are well aware. And which not everyone is aware is the seal that gets blown out by continuously pulling on the emergency brake too hard and too often.

I would also like to see the rest of the parts. Perhaps using a bit sharper camera or with more light?

While I'm sure this is not your intention but virtually everyone who uses their 116 (to the best of my knowledge - All use the same rear brakes) very aggressively know that the rear inboard brakes get too hot and then start fading. I wish I could find it, but someone (somones?) have made spacers to go between the two halves so they can then use vented discs. Apparently it is a very effective fix and if someone is a racer it is highly unlikely a tech inspector will notice the thicker discs. I believe the emergency brake can also be made to still work - but whatever, if any, connection between the two halves would have to be extended - or are both halves self contained?

No cheating now, but I also want to see the calipers once they're back together. ATE sure used every type of snap ring available.

Rube Goldberg would be proud of both ATE for coming up with this rear caliper 'system' and for you taking one apart.

Biba
 

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IC,

Thank you very much.

You have validated my decision of three weeks ago to not attempt to re-build the rear callipers myself (Sticking hand brake was one of the issues).

After I paid the bill I was thinking I should’ve done it myself, but now I’ve seen the guts of the device spread out I’m glad I got someone who knows the beastie very well to do it.

Now if I could just bleed the damned brakes I could get the car back on the road again.

Thanks again IC.
 

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Cool pictures. I wish you had gone down to the 7mm adjuster as the only reason I have had to replace the back calipers was because they leaked from there.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Well, I'm not planning on ever re-assembling this caliper, I took it apart for two reasons:
1. to see what's inside (it's curiosity that killed the cat)
2. to get a rubber seal for my Alfa Sei rear caliper. A Sei's rear brake is very similar to the GTV's, but it can be taken apart much easier. (Which shall not be confused with "being actually EASY".) I found the Sei's handbrake operating lever's seal was worn badly (it wasn't installed correctly to begin with) and therefore I put my mind to acquiring a spare seal from an unused GTV caliper. They are identical. (See pic. Distortion is very evident.)
Oh, and the Sei lacks the 7mm adjuster! Instead it sports a two-piece adjusting mechanism, consisting of an inner "adjuster" and an outer "fastener" screw. Something like the GTV's outer caliper adjuster. I'll post some pics of it, and I'll take better pics of the GTV brake too.
Meanwhile I added comments to the first pic. It's actually not as fearsome as it looks. I followed steps 1-4 to disassemble the caliper. However I DO NOT encourage anybody to do this and take no responsibility if someone breaks something, especially him- or herself (after ruining something or putting the caliper back together not-so-perfectly and failing to stop the car).
I'll try to take out the 7mm screw, but it's fixed by an almost-impossible-to-remove ring and corroded in place. However, I don't think it's that important. If the 7mm is leaking fluid, than the problem shouldn't be with its seal, but the rubber seal on the piston shaft (visible between the threaded part and the gear). This is supposed to seal the fluid chamber, and the outer seals (at the 7mm and at the handbrake lever) are just there to keep the gears greased and are NOT designed to withstand brake pressure. Grease and brake fluid aren't supposed to mix anyway; if the fluid reaches the 7mm adjuster, your piston shaft seal is blown to hell. (The other half of the caliper has a seal just like that on the shaft, and nothing else between the fluid chamber and the outside of the caliper.) Well, what do you think?
Biba: yeah, almost every transaxle car has the same rear brake system, but I heard that the Sprint and Roadster Zagatos had ventilated rear discs. Even there the calipers were the same, but with spacers just like you said.
Al_cam: well, my only advice concerning the bleeding is: try NOT to run out of fluid from the front reservoir, because this stupid mistake can really prolong the story. I had to begin anew about six or seven times when it bled dry... and again... and again... and then my girlfriend asked: "Hey, what if you kept an eye on that blasted fluid level? I'm getting a wee bit tired of pumping this pedal."
 

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Discussion Starter #7
IHMO that's the seal that cause leakage at the 7mm screw. It's easily accessible after removing the "green parts". (Getting the ring off that holds the "green parts" in place, now, that takes some patience.) However, the rear caliper rebuild kit I bought did not include that seal.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I believe the emergency brake can also be made to still work - but whatever, if any, connection between the two halves would have to be extended - or are both halves self contained?
I think the handbrake operates the inner pads only. Regardless of modifications, the distance between the left and right-side inner calipers remains the same (as they are bolted on the gearbox) and therefore the handbrake should work without a problem.
 

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Mine leaked when I bought the car and a kit from a Saab included all the parts with the exception of the dust covers on the plungers that push the pads and the tiny "O" rings. I managed to source the "O" rings from a parts store IIRC. It's not that difficult and with a bit of patience you can reassemble it and get it working again. A whole lot cheaper than the rebuilt calipers that are sold.

After standing for 3 years my handbrake kept jamming. After lots of WD40 and a bit of patience it has freed up and have had no problems for a few months now.
 

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What you've done is great. Showing the rest of us a dismantled caliper is terrific, and i'm not kidding.
I have a Haynes manual for my '76 Alfetta and I'm still at a loss on how to adjust the disc (rotor)-to-pad gap for the outboard pads with the allen screw facing each rear tire . The small nut facing the rear bumper on each rear caliper worked fine in gap-adjustment for the inboard pads. What is the function of the Allen screw ? The 17mm locknut is just that, a locknut. Which way does one turn the Allen screw to increase the gap, clockwise or counterclockwise ?
I got no movement whatsoever at the pad-to-disc contact area.
 

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hi, this post is excellent, almost making me brave enough to continue with my sticking rear calliper. the pisture with the parts sorted to colours and sections is great. well done for your work and keep it coming.

peter
 

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In response to bluealfa76's question clockwise on the outer Allen key will retract the outer pad, anticlockwise will move the pad closer to the disk. Often you need to move the locknut at the same time as the Allen key to prevent it binding up. Sometimes it takes a lot of turning to get any noticeable movement of the pad as the internal thread may be stickier than the friction unit inside the piston. Thanks also to innercircle for the good info.
 

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Ha! I've been doing the exact same thing!

















There are c-clips around the ends of the handbrake lever shafts. A slight tap with a hammer and drift freed them.



The handbrake lever shaft seals were different between my two rear calipers.



 

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There is only one thing to do with these calipers, and that is to put them in the bin. Horrible poorly designed things.

Suggest you go and buy a 2003 Mazda 3 rear caliper. Does the same thing and properly designed. Plus there are many others that are so much better.

I'm a big fan for originality but not where these calipers are concerned ... only place is the bin.
Pete
 

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I'm having trouble in removing the handbrake arms. Any suggestion, please?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
If you already took out the parts marked green in a previous post, just keep hitting the handbrake arm until the C-ring gives way and the arm comes loose.
 

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There is only one thing to do with these calipers, and that is to put them in the bin. Horrible poorly designed things.

Suggest you go and buy a 2003 Mazda 3 rear caliper. Does the same thing and properly designed. Plus there are many others that are so much better.

I'm a big fan for originality but not where these calipers are concerned ... only place is the bin.
Pete
Hello PSk,

Are the Mazda 3 rear caliper a direct swap? :smile2:
Meaning that are easy to install on the Alfetta GT..?
 

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Hello PSk,

Are the Mazda 3 rear caliper a direct swap? :smile2:
Meaning that are easy to install on the Alfetta GT..?
I doubt it. Never done the conversion but installing almost any caliper can be done with only a little bit of work and thinking.

I have though installed FIAT calipers running with Isuzu Pizza brake discs on to a Ford Escort rear axle. Can't remember what handle brake lever I used, but do remember sourcing a hand brake cable was hard work as I had to get it made.
Pete
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I think the worst aspect of the calipers is the trouble of getting at them. This won't be solved by using another make.
 
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