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Am I missing a bolt here??
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lost my orientation...
Are those pictures just about exactly upside-down? The thing at the "bottom" appears to be the water pump pulley, so the missing bolt would appear to be on the water pump. I am not familiar with the 24V layout, but what I see at the "top" of the pictures appears to be the lower timing belt cover. If your missing bolt is on the water pump, as it appears, then it might be something stripped on a previous assembly and omitted in hopes it would be OK.
If the orientation is more like it would appear at first glance, then the picture may be of the top edge of the front cover of the block. I see the teeth of what may be the crank pickup gear, so paragraph #1 may be entirely off the mark with its water pump comments. If it is the front cover, then without clear signs of oil seepage, you probably don't have any. And oil seepage there wouldn't get anywhere it could burn, as far as I could tell.
If you can't simply replace the 6mmx1mmx(20-25)mm bolt, then you may have to Helicoil it. I'd use a toothpick or other probe to get an idea of the depth of the hole and use a bolt a couple of mm shorter than the hole depth to water pump flange. I had to buy a helicoil kit for this bolt size recently, fortunately for a block which was out of the car, and the cost was about $28 for a dozen inserts and a tap. I had to supply my own drill. Worked great, but with everything dismounted, I didn't have a cluttered working area.
MIchael
Are those pictures just about exactly upside-down? The thing at the "bottom" appears to be the water pump pulley, so the missing bolt would appear to be on the water pump. I am not familiar with the 24V layout, but what I see at the "top" of the pictures appears to be the lower timing belt cover. If your missing bolt is on the water pump, as it appears, then it might be something stripped on a previous assembly and omitted in hopes it would be OK.
If the orientation is more like it would appear at first glance, then the picture may be of the top edge of the front cover of the block. I see the teeth of what may be the crank pickup gear, so paragraph #1 may be entirely off the mark with its water pump comments. If it is the front cover, then without clear signs of oil seepage, you probably don't have any. And oil seepage there wouldn't get anywhere it could burn, as far as I could tell.
If you can't simply replace the 6mmx1mmx(20-25)mm bolt, then you may have to Helicoil it. I'd use a toothpick or other probe to get an idea of the depth of the hole and use a bolt a couple of mm shorter than the hole depth to water pump flange. I had to buy a helicoil kit for this bolt size recently, fortunately for a block which was out of the car, and the cost was about $28 for a dozen inserts and a tap. I had to supply my own drill. Worked great, but with everything dismounted, I didn't have a cluttered working area.
MIchael
MR. T yes you are seeing 24v engine pix so not quite the same as 12v. You are seeing crank pulley and serpentine belt tensioner pulley which on back of 24v engine. there is no
lower or front timing belt cover like 12v.
As for burnt oil smell check exhaust pipes under pan for evidence rear cigarette seals or pan gasket weeping and check pan bolts for looseness.
lower or front timing belt cover like 12v.
As for burnt oil smell check exhaust pipes under pan for evidence rear cigarette seals or pan gasket weeping and check pan bolts for looseness.
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Haha, I see somebody had made a big inspection hole to check the clearance of the timing belt tensioner!
I found my pictures of the same area and it appears that I also do not have a bolt there. It looks like we are looking at the metal crank shaft cover behind the crank pulley.
I have enlarged that tensioner clearance inspection hole later on to make it closer to the edge so I can actually stick a 1/16" pin through the small tensioner retaining pin hole. The other pics show the upper cam pulley inspection holes. Of course, the actual timing depends on how good the added marks are whether the cams have slipped. But it is a quick way to verify whether the belt has jumped teeth.
I found my pictures of the same area and it appears that I also do not have a bolt there. It looks like we are looking at the metal crank shaft cover behind the crank pulley.
I have enlarged that tensioner clearance inspection hole later on to make it closer to the edge so I can actually stick a 1/16" pin through the small tensioner retaining pin hole. The other pics show the upper cam pulley inspection holes. Of course, the actual timing depends on how good the added marks are whether the cams have slipped. But it is a quick way to verify whether the belt has jumped teeth.
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Then it seems I dont need to worry abt tht hole... well here is what my PO said at that time...(you can see the same on his ad though)
" There is a small oil leak coming from the oil pump drive gear cover. I suspect this cover needs to be tightened down. The engine need to be tilted forward to do this
The hose from the oil recovery tank to the oil pump drive gear cover need to be replaced. The hose split at the clamp. it was long enough to cut the bad section off and reuse. The engine need to be tilted forward to do this."
so for the first part, where should I check ??
-Pavan
" There is a small oil leak coming from the oil pump drive gear cover. I suspect this cover needs to be tightened down. The engine need to be tilted forward to do this
The hose from the oil recovery tank to the oil pump drive gear cover need to be replaced. The hose split at the clamp. it was long enough to cut the bad section off and reuse. The engine need to be tilted forward to do this."
so for the first part, where should I check ??
-Pavan
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I believe the PO is referring to the oil separator (oil recovery tank). Below is a picture, you don't have to tilt the engine to tighten the screws/bolts and to replace the small oil drain hose. It is hard to get a direct visual (use a mirror and flash light if you want to look) but it is possible to reach back there. There should be an o-ring inside the cover to help seal the oil gear cover but you can try just tighten down the 2 small bolts (don't over do it though!). I recall the 12V engine only has one bolt for the cove!
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Please don't tell me you took those pictures with only the two jacks holding up the car 
! Always use something that are less likely to collapse (jack stands, concrete or wood blocks etc) before you go under there !
The pictures confirmed the burnt oil smell is from oil dripping on the front exhaust pipes. As Steve already said, most likely from cigarette seal or oil pan bolts. It could also be the rear main (crankshaft) seal or from the differential drive shaft seal. There's some oil leak from the oil separator area most likely from the hoses and perhaps some from the rear valve cover gasket.
! Always use something that are less likely to collapse (jack stands, concrete or wood blocks etc) before you go under there !The pictures confirmed the burnt oil smell is from oil dripping on the front exhaust pipes. As Steve already said, most likely from cigarette seal or oil pan bolts. It could also be the rear main (crankshaft) seal or from the differential drive shaft seal. There's some oil leak from the oil separator area most likely from the hoses and perhaps some from the rear valve cover gasket.
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Yeh... I didnt have any jack stand underneath it, but it took me only 2min to take all those pics... I always use jack stands when workin underneath, but today I got lazy to have them udnerneathPlease don't tell me you took those pictures with only the two jacks holding up the car
The pictures confirmed the burnt oil smell is from oil dripping on the front exhaust pipes. As Steve already said, most likely from cigarette seal or oil pan bolts. It could also be the rear main (crankshaft) seal or from the differential drive shaft seal. There's some oil leak from the oil separator area most likely from the hoses and perhaps some from the rear valve cover gasket.
... not gud yehhhh...But I dont see any oil leak at front exhaust pipes... Pic9 is front exhaust pipes... while Pic5 is rear exhaust headers and I see some oil there... also where does the oil drops come from in pic6, pic7, Pic8... what should I have to do atleast to reduce the oil burnt smell....
-Pavan
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I was naughty and went over my 4GB data limit for October 15th-November 15th. That means my ISP has slowed my Broadband down from 2.5Mb/s to 64Kb/s. It would take me about 15 minutes to download all your giant pics!Yeh... I didnt have any jack stand underneath it, but it took me only 2min to take all those pics... I always use jack stands when workin underneath, but today I got lazy to have them udnerneath
But I dont see any oil leak at front exhaust pipes... Pic9 is front exhaust pipes... while Pic5 is rear exhaust headers and I see some oil there... also where does the oil drops come from in pic6, pic7, Pic8... what should I have to do atleast to reduce the oil burnt smell....
-Pavan
I had that burning-oil smell the other day as well (I had started up my 164 for the first time in a month or two) and turned it around on the driveway). At least it was a relief to find that the smell (and smoke) were coming from the front (and not from the exhaust). What I did was that I grabbed an aerosol can of engine degreaser (the type that washes off with water), I sprayed the exhaust pipe that runs under the engine, and hosed it off well. That at least got rid of the smoke and burning-oil smell - has been fine for several days now.
When I read about the possible cause - these sump bolts and cigarette seals (what a lovely name), I begin to think that this is something I won't be fixing until the rest of the engine 'blows up'! I might just check that the sump bolts are tight of course.
-Alex
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