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Discussion Starter #1
Would somebody tell me I'm not crazy? My monopod has been acting like crap for the last few weeks; sometimes on, sometimes off. Battery gauge sometimes on, sometimes off. Indication lamps usually working, etc. etc. Tachometer sometimes on, sometimes off. Warbling seatbelt buzzer sometimes working, sometimes not.

Futzing with fuse box, no improvement. Cleaned a bunch (not all) contacts, removed/reseated a bunch (not all) contacts, and so forth.

Factory WSM says fuse #7 (I have blade fuses) should be 7.5 amps. The existing 7.5 amp fuse was not blown, and in fact relatively new. I got pissed and put a 10amp in there. Flipping monopod seems to work rock solid now.

What gives?
 

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1984 GTV6, 1973 Berlina, 1987 Milano
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Your 7.5 amp fuse was probably cracked. I would put a 7.5 amp fuse back in but use a new one.

Sent from my GM1917 using Tapatalk
 

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Would somebody tell me I'm not crazy?
Flipping monopod seems to work rock solid now.
That old fuse could be decades old. You got your monies worth out of it. Try a new 7.5 amp fuse - if the instruments continue to work properly then we can discuss the first question. :p
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Turns out, both fuses 7 and 8 are somewhat in the same condition. Wiggling them around kicks on/off their respective circuits. Removal of fuse box and clean/Stabliant of the block connector and pins for that section of fuses didn't solve them problem, nor did cleaning up the fuse receptacles for 7/8. Next step, I'm afraid will be disassembly of the fuse box itself. I assume it can be split open ? Are there any threads on opening these boxes on an S3 ?
 

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I've never tried (or heard of anyone trying) to split open the fuse box. Removing/reinserting the connectors in the back is often enough to scrape off any corrosion and restore function (unless we're talking about a flood damaged car).

The fuse box can be unhooked & lowered down then turned around for better access to the back side.
 

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Get a small screwdriver and bend them to tighten them up.

Grab a can of Deoxit and spray them. this will fix the corrosion issue if there is one. Deoxit is expensinve, like it's made from Unicorn tears, but it works and is worth every penny.

 

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I can't even imagine it is splittable.

As Eric says, drop it down and turn it around, then get at terminals for those fuses and give them a good clean with that deoxit spray and a firm toothbrush.
If you remove connectors from the back take a photo so you know in which slot they go back...1 or 2 you can remember, when you remove 10 you suddenly lose it:)

here is a front and rear view
fusebox ft and re.jpg
 

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I'm told that using these to add pressure to the contacts helps.
Going to use them when I get the car on the road.

 

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Discussion Starter #9
Yeah, I've had the box out of the car already and cleaned it up -- but I suspect its something internal with the clips on fuse 7 and 8. I'll use a dental pick and wedge out the fingers a little bit to see if that helps. (The issue is definitely at the point of fuse insertion, not the connection blocks on the back. Still, I've used a bunch of Stabilant-22a -- like Deoxit -- which certainly won't hurt things)

Updates to follow. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Update #1: found and bought a spare fusebox off eBay. I'm not sure whether I'll cannibalize it to make the current one work properly, or if it will arrive in plug-n-play condition.

Update #2: Wiggling fuse #7 and #8 is 100% the issue. I was unable to grab the fusebox's fingers enough to safely pull them outward. However, using a thin strip of electrical tape as a shim, I wrapped fuse #7 and fuse #8 (around the plastic section of the fuse) with just two wraps of tape. When inserted back into the box, they are now snug without any lateral movement., Guess what? Monopod works properly and tach + speedo are very stable and smooth in the their movement. Water/PSI/Battery all very stable in their movement. Fuel guage moves a little, but I expect that is the sender in the tank, not the monopod.

When the new fuse box arrives, we'll see how it goes.

Today I'm taking my son out to practice his driving. It's entirely possible my next post will be asking about a replacement transmission or clutch! :). Hey, we all learned to drive somehow, right?
 

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Great news, with all the electrical connections in our aging spiders its a miracle they work as good as they do.

Good luck with your boy behind the wheel
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Good luck with your boy behind the wheel
Had a blast! I bought it for him last winter, and it'll be his car when he turns 16 (about eighteen months away). The idea is that if he busts his knuckles sorting it out, he'll learn a crap-ton about real cars, and respect it enough to not abuse the privilege of driving like most new teenage drivers. With such modest horsepower and no significant creature comforts, I hope/pray it helps him to be an attentive, responsible driver.

He has already tackled a variety of projects, some easy and some tough: oil change, coolant flush, brake pads + flush, clutch slave cylinder, dreaded pivot pin replacement, and now some of this fusebox stuff. Suspension is next and we're going to do front tie rods and rear trailing arms. Hopefully that alone tightens it up.

Anyway, once we got out into the countryside, I handed him the keys and nervously sat in the passenger seat. He told me not to post the full video, so I guess I'll respect his wishes. Here is a single screen-shot:


1624674
 
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