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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all,
Not sure if this is the right forum.
I am looking to reskin the steel frame on my GTV hood in aluminum.
I live in Los Angeles, so hoping to find someone local to southern California.
Even if I wanted to pay $3800 los shipping for the Alfaholics all aluminum version, they have stopped making them.
Hoping someone out there can point me in the right direction, I have talked to the custom metal workers I know and can reach out to and all have politely declined.
Thanks!
1689745
1689746
 

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Premium Member
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Hi all,
Not sure if this is the right forum.
I am looking to reskin the steel frame on my GTV hood in aluminum.
I live in Los Angeles, so hoping to find someone local to southern California.
Even if I wanted to pay $3800 los shipping for the Alfaholics all aluminum version, they have stopped making them.
Hoping someone out there can point me in the right direction, I have talked to the custom metal workers I know and can reach out to and all have politely declined.
Thanks!
For way less than $3800, you might consider buying this and a piece of Aluminum and making your own hood skin Eastwood Benchtop English Wheel. Even if not perfect, it might match the appearance theme of your car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Me + aluminum sheet + English wheel + YouTube videos = 100 years + 1 lumpy mess.
hoping to find someone to hire for this job.
 

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Richard Jemison
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Tony at: [email protected] is a fellow in the northwest who has molds for the later GTVs (non-step nose) (not the step nose version, but he`s planning on making one). I was refered to him by "Justcallmefred".
The underside bracing and hinge & hood latch is done copying the factory design. Ready to bolt on! (after paint of course) Impressive. Cost is only $400.00 and the deck lid $375. He also has a version with modified bracing to allow room for the taller Twin Spark heads.

The step nose hood weighed 23 lbs. The steel bracing I removed from my step nose after removal weighed 7 or so lbs. The steel hood after brace removal weighed 16 lbs. Still HEAVY!
His finished hood weighs (from memory) under 10 lbs.
Certainly a weight saver!

I`ve decided to make a mold for the step nose and lay up my own. I enjoy doing things like this myself.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hi Richard, are we talking about a fiberglass hood or an aluminum hood? That sounds about right for fiberglass and extremely cheap for aluminum especially with all of the frame done.
 

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This would be an expensive part to make. It would require an English Wheel, as well as tipping dies on a bead roller. Once you had the curved panel made you would have to use the tipping dies to flange the panel to be able to attach it to the steel frame.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thank you for your reply, that is helpful information.
It does sound expensive, which is what everyone I talk to about it says.
I haven't been able to get anyone to estimate for me how many hours it might take, though.
If you have any idea how many hours we are talking about, that would be so helpful.
I could estimate price and see if it makes sense for me or not.
I would appreciate your input about it.
Thanks again.
 

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I haven't done one yet, but you could spend 10 hours just installing a factory skin. It all comes down to what it takes to create an aluminum skin. I wouldn't be surprised if it went over 40 hours total.
 

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Touch base with member 1750GTV105.44 he has skinned a hood.

k
 

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Other than “it’s just so cool“, why would you spend all that time or money on aluminum? Fiberglass or even CF is lighter and cheaper and can also be made to a very high standard.

With that said, I have spent way too much money on plenty of things in my life that made no sense, just because “I wanted to!”
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Other than “it’s just so cool“, why would you spend all that time or money on aluminum? Fiberglass or even CF is lighter and cheaper and can also be made to a very high standard.

With that said, I have spent way too much money on plenty of things in my life that made no sense, just because “I wanted to!”
Literally not one other reason
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I haven't done one yet, but you could spend 10 hours just installing a factory skin. It all comes down to what it takes to create an aluminum skin. I wouldn't be surprised if it went over 40 hours total.
Yikes, that is a lot of time.
Maybe I'll just sand the steel and clear coat it.
I tried Gibbs oil but it rusted again almost immediately.
 

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There are a number of metal shapers/coach builders in the US. I would think that you could ship them the hood and they could re-skin and ship back ready for paint (or polish). Look up proshaper.com (Wray Schelin, MA), covell.biz (Ron Covell, NorCal), tinmantech.com (Kent White, NorCal), etc.
 

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The curve is very minor. I'd peal the steel skin off, lay on a piece of thin aluminum, cut to shape, fold over just enough to locate each corner, check the curve (if necessary put some thing rubber packers on the frame to get the curve you desire), finish rest of the edges. Done.

If you do need to put a curve in it, get a mate (to help hold the panel) and clamp a dolly in a vice with lots of room around it and hammer and dolly the panel in the middle and slow work backwards and forwards. Since you are stretching the metal you will introduce a curve. This was how it was done before the English wheel, but does require patience. I did this successfully on my repair section for my door skin
Pete
 

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Richard Jemison
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Greg Seferian posted this on my GTAM clone thread. Now you know what aluminum to use!
#50 · 13 d ago

I remember seeing a GTV at a vintage event that looked like it was all steel paneled but the owner had cut off the hoods edges and replaced the entire panel with .040" 3003 alloy aluminum. The undersides reinforcement had had a large number of holes rota-broached in it to lighten it. The aluminum panel was in a very soft temper and conformed to the shape without much if any forming.

Just don't ever have any one sit on it.... I'd like to try this someday on my Berlina.
 
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