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Can anyone suggest the specs for an aggressive (driving style) alignment? (I did a search, but not what I want)
I have a slight pull to the left, and the steering wheel tilts to the left also. My tires are 205/60-14s.
I got a quote of $100, is that good?

Thanks!
 

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I guess it depends on what kind of aggressive driving. In general, the Alfa specs are pretty good for real-world use. But for serious track use, you'll want negative camber, which requires adjustable upper arms to achieve; stock arms do not allow camber change. Less toe-in allows for better turn-in, but detracts from straight-line stability. Further, less caster allows lighter steering, and presumably better turn-in, though again detracts from the tendency to self-straighten, and detracts from straight-line stability. Toe-out can lead to serious dartiness, which can be dangerous on the street.

Someone will probably chime in with actual specs. I personally go with stock and drive hard anyway.

If you're pulling one way, you need sorting back to normal to begin with. There's a lot to be said for making sure all your tie rod ends and suspension bushings are in good condition. $100 is slightly high for a two-wheel alignment, but not outrageous. Depends on the local labor rates.

Andrew
 

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1966-2013
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'Agressive' A somewhat vauge term :)

Are you regularly driving beyond the limits of the current suspension setup? (you may be a candidate for some dialing)

Are you driving within the limits, but want more assertiveness? (get stock/standard alignment, and fiddle your tire pressures instead)


The difference between the two?

If you're regularly going beyond what the car is capable of then some tweaking may be in order, (that or driving lessons in smoothness :D ), but if you're not reaching the limit, an agressive alignment isn't going to get you any deeper into the range you arent using to begin with.


'Round here, alignnments run around $60-$70, so what you quote doesn't really seem too far out on a limb.
 

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Trained (ex)Professional, , 1953-2018 RIP,
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Just got an alignment on the (running) GTV this morning and while they set it up using my specs, I'd call the specs more lightly spirited than aggressive. After all, this car will see much more street driving than track days.

Camber = -0.5 deg
Caster = +1.0 deg
Toe = zero

A vehicle will pull (or drift) to the side that has A) more negative caster and/or B) more positive camber (assuming that the pull is not brake or tire related). The steering wheel will get straightened when the toe is adjusted.
 

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I have found that these cars need slightly different alignment specs when running 195 and 205 width tires than if they are running 185s or narrower.

Here's what we recommend at Centerline for wide tires:

Toe-In: 1/8"
Camber: -1/2 degree
Castor: 2 to 3 degrees

The increased castor really decreases the tendency of wide tire to follow grooves in the road, but doesn't seem to hurt turn-in or grip.

Joe
 
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