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Discussion Starter · #101 ·
I don't think there was a "stock" stereo for these. Most all were dealer installed. Others my know better as they were buying them new in the day! :)
 

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I don't think there was a "stock" stereo for these. Most all were dealer installed. Others my know better as they were buying them new in the day! :)
Right, another thing about mine, is that there is a Radio Frequency Label/Warning on door pillar, which is what me think of it as 'stock'.
 

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Mark , whats new on this ? I think I am going to need to pull my fuel tank and boil it out as well, I keep getting the FP light flickering and some lack of power when it does -- changed both filters so I think maybe its suspended rust and junk interfering with the pick up tube in the tank......
 

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What I found to clean my petrol tank really well was to enter a race meeting. Sure she had fuel supply issues that meeting but when I pulled my fuel tank out all I had to do was empty it because the racing had sloshed the fuel around and cleaned it up internally really good :D

Never had another issue with that fuel tank
Pete
 

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That wont work for me at all. Car wont pass a safety inspection, and there are no race meets around here that are painless - total work involved to get into a race is far greater than to pull the tank and boil it out. Thanks anyway.
 
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What I found to clean my petrol tank really well was to enter a race meeting. Sure she had fuel supply issues that meeting but when I pulled my fuel tank out all I had to do was empty it because the racing had sloshed the fuel around and cleaned it up internally really good :D

Never had another issue with that fuel tank
Pete
Heck, that's old school Pete. Just do it right in the neighborhood:

 

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Discussion Starter · #107 ·
I never did find a radiator shop to do the job. Supposedly there is one in Omaha, but all my small town friends have closed up shop. Missed the one in Beatrice (where I work) by about a month from closing - retirement.

Radiator shop is really the best method. However, with that option gone, I went a second path:
  • Drain the tank as much as you can
  • Remove from the car
  • Hot water and Dawn - slosh it. Drain. Repeat several times
  • Muratic Acid - diluted. Used for etching concrete, so be wise about where you dump the remains. You can get it at the hardware store.
  • Did the acid twice and dumped the flow in the gravel drive - still stained brown, but fading.
  • I used 2 chains to help loosen the rust and crud - unfortunately only one came back out. There are lots of baffles in this tank
  • Tank was noticeably cleaner afterwards.
  • You could do a sealer kit after this (Speedway Motors has one that was recommended), but I chose not to
Fuel system seems to be working well, but I have yet to put the engine under load

Regarding the status of the rest of the project: I have been travelling a lot for work, I have an accelerated 8-week class until March (insane) and it has been repeatedly down in the single digits. :( So not much progress since the battery box and doors. It was 65° on Sunday, but I travelled back from the Farm Machinery Show in Louisville that morning. I only got the shocks, sway bar and Watts links loose and dropped the springs out before I had to call it from exhaustion.

Next steps are shift linkage, rear driveshaft and the wires and hoses before dropping the rear assembly. I'll grab some pictures once it is down. Still chasing the clutch hard line.
 

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It's tough to find a radiator shop! I found one about an hour from my house. It had been in business since 1948. They were able to clean and reseal my radiator without recoring. I say this because the go-to these days seems to be a re-core, mostly because it's a simper and less fussy process than cleaning, looking for leaks, pressure testing, repeat. The other side of my story is what I paid. It was a lot more than I expected, and had paid in the past for the process. But beggars can't be choosers. - Matt
 

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I guess I'm lucky. Radiator shop just a few miles from my house. The recored and repainted the radiator on my GT (pretty good price too). I think the two guys running the shop have approximately 100 years of experience between them...
 

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Discussion Starter · #110 ·
Yesterday was in the 70s. I have been working non-stop for three weeks. It was time to take a vacation day. (OK, I still had homework and two meetings to attend in the morning, but you get the idea)

Finished removing the transaxle and De Dion assembly. Worst part (as always) was the rear trans mounting bolt. It was seized into the steel spacer, which broke free and rotated in the rubber bushing. I had to run in to work and borrow a sawzall. The damage on this car is interesting. Anything that was protected from exposure (threads or components that were clamped) is near new. Anything that was exposed to the environment (damp floor) or mouse urine is well corroded. The end result is that it looks awful, but comes apart relatively easily.

Next step is removal of the driveshaft - then I can finally get to the hydraulic lines. Everything rear of the front De Dion mount and the tunnel will be cleaned up before parts go back in. Worst rust so far is the rear De Dion crossmember, but I still need to poke around a bit more. :)

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Discussion Starter · #111 ·
This past weekend concluded my spring term class - turned in the project and took my last test! Yay! Also had to change oil in two of the cars in the fleet - a bit more on that later.

I did get some time to clean up the barn floor on Sunday afternoon. Separated the transaxle from the De Dion and pulled both parts out of the middle of the floor. It felt good that I only had to cut two of the trans mount bolts with the cut off wheel. The others, and the ones holding the axle shaft to the trans, all broke free. I received my nickel-coper lines on Saturday. I need to pull the driveshaft and then I am excited to start fabricating! So far, next weekend is completely open - maybe some good progress will be made.

Changed the oil on Milo and there were two chunks of valve guide seal stuck to the magnet on the drain plug. How the heck can they get there? Each chunk was about 1/3 of the seal circumference. You also would think that losing a seal like this would affect the oil consumption / tailpipe smoke. Haven't noticed a change. It could be that this was from the previous owner who had rebuilt the heads. But that was 100k miles ago, and why would you lose a seal into the engine? Supposedly he did valve guides, wouldn't the heads be off?

Regardless, Milo still runs good - no visible blue smoke. Still has the rhythmic wobble in the oil pressure that it has had for the last 20K or so. Suspect a lost crank plug. I probably need to give the valvetrain and lower end a good once over when I do the 300K service this summer. Pull the bottom of the oil pan, check the bearings and oil pump like I did at 250K.
 

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Milo is a survivor. At 300k! Like my old dog, if it works don’t touch it. I had a 164s with what sounded like a rod knock for the entire 70k I drove that car.
I don't think you had a rod knock sound. I've been there are done that twice and the noise is really F'ing loud

Pete
 

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Discussion Starter · #114 ·
Broke down the two transaxles last weekend. One from the car and a spare that Witty dropped by. The one from Rocky was very clean inside - should be able to make one good one. No surprise LSD or lightened gears. Also cross drilled the old trans mounts (yes Alfettas are very different than GTV6 or Milano) and lubed the throw out bearing. Hope to walk through the trans this weekend and have it ready to accept brakes when I get there.

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Discussion Starter · #115 ·
Haven't updated in a while. Been reworking units for work like crazy over the last month. Nearing the end - close of the second quarter - and glad to be there.

Got the transaxle back together. I was able to swap syncro rings from the spare in for a couple, but the spare was in really tough shape compared to the one from Rocky. I do have some decent dogs and sliders left over if anyone is desperate!

The trans still looks ugly, but I know it is good inside - that is what counts!. If it gets warm before I get around to the install, I will scrub it with some scotchbrite to make me feel a little better.

I also have fabricated all new brake lines for the car. The nickel-copper is awesome. I could pass the long rear line down between the engine and firewall and route it down the driveshaft tunnel by hand as my wife fed it in from above. Then form all the bends by hand with it installed under the car. Master cylinder looks decent (but will probably fail once the rest of the system is assembled).

I spent the weekend rebuilding calipers. Removing the stuck pistons from the ATE fronts took heat, 90 psi and taps with the ball peen - simultaneously. The pistons were "good enough" to reuse (probably will leak). By the way - Brembo pistons are nearly identical - same diameter and depth, but there is an offset at the bottom that the ATE have and Brembos do not. ATE would work in Brembo, but not the other way round - bummer. Looks like you might be able to narrow up the Brembos to fit the Alfetta rotors, but I did not break them down further.

I went through about 7 rear calipers to get four good pistons. I've done enough of these to know what tools to grab and how to extract the adjusters to replace the o-rings. They should be good to go.

If I get the front rotors from Performatek this week, I stand a chance to get most of this back into the car this weekend. There will still be fluids, leaks and flanges to weld to the exhaust system before I can run it again, but getting closer. I'll get pictures as the new parts go in.
 
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Discussion Starter · #116 ·
Picture of a rebuilt rear caliper. You can tell it's rebuilt because of the cheap coat of silver paint!
:)
Note how the De Dion assembly on a panel rack makes a perfect paint hanger!

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Discussion Starter · #117 ·
Turned some rear rotors on the lathe at work and mounted up the rotors / calipers / lines and brake shoes on the TA. Adjusters on the calipers work as they should. Painted the De Dion and it is about ready to be married and put back in the car - very excited!

Talked to Andy at Performatek. The website was out of date and the prices on the rotors were no longer realistic. Thankfully he was still able to get some from Tarox. The pictures look beautiful and I know they have a good reputation for quality parts. About double the cost, so these will be the second most expensive parts on the car (only the Thermostatic Actuator cost more). Probably a week + out for delivery but that will give me time to get the rear of the car buttoned up and then I can move to the front.

Looking forward to a good weekend
 

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Discussion Starter · #118 ·
Weekend update. Rocky now has clutch action. I was able to move it forward and back under its own power. Woo Hoo!! Brakes and Exhaust and then road tests start.

Here are some photos of the one-man transmission / De Dion install. The little Amish wagon is a great tool for positioning. Then just jack the wagon axles up to the correct height. Only miss-step was attaching the drive axles before inserting the springs (axles won't let the De Dion fall enough to insert springs).

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Haven't updated in a while. Been reworking units for work like crazy over the last month. Nearing the end - close of the second quarter - and glad to be there.

Got the transaxle back together. I was able to swap syncro rings from the spare in for a couple, but the spare was in really tough shape compared to the one from Rocky. I do have some decent dogs and sliders left over if anyone is desperate!

The trans still looks ugly, but I know it is good inside - that is what counts!. If it gets warm before I get around to the install, I will scrub it with some scotchbrite to make me feel a little better.

I also have fabricated all new brake lines for the car. The nickel-copper is awesome. I could pass the long rear line down between the engine and firewall and route it down the driveshaft tunnel by hand as my wife fed it in from above. Then form all the bends by hand with it installed under the car. Master cylinder looks decent (but will probably fail once the rest of the system is assembled).

I spent the weekend rebuilding calipers. Removing the stuck pistons from the ATE fronts took heat, 90 psi and taps with the ball peen - simultaneously. The pistons were "good enough" to reuse (probably will leak). By the way - Brembo pistons are nearly identical - same diameter and depth, but there is an offset at the bottom that the ATE have and Brembos do not. ATE would work in Brembo, but not the other way round - bummer. Looks like you might be able to narrow up the Brembos to fit the Alfetta rotors, but I did not break them down further.

I went through about 7 rear calipers to get four good pistons. I've done enough of these to know what tools to grab and how to extract the adjusters to replace the o-rings. They should be good to go.

If I get the front rotors from Performatek this week, I stand a chance to get most of this back into the car this weekend. There will still be fluids, leaks and flanges to weld to the exhaust system before I can run it again, but getting closer. I'll get pictures as the new parts go in.
what did the brake rotors cost
Turned some rear rotors on the lathe at work and mounted up the rotors / calipers / lines and brake shoes on the TA. Adjusters on the calipers work as they should. Painted the De Dion and it is about ready to be married and put back in the car - very excited!

Talked to Andy at Performatek. The website was out of date and the prices on the rotors were no longer realistic. Thankfully he was still able to get some from Tarox. The pictures look beautiful and I know they have a good reputation for quality parts. About double the cost, so these will be the second most expensive parts on the car (only the Thermostatic Actuator cost more). Probably a week + out for delivery but that will give me time to get the rear of the car buttoned up and then I can move to the front.

Looking forward to a good weekend
What did the front brake rotors cost? I got my new ones from OKP.de in Germany. $US 80 each. I have bought from Performatek but OKP always seems to have Alfetta parts in stock.
 

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Discussion Starter · #120 ·
I'll have to add OKP to my normal list of vendors. Especially now that Highwood is NLA. The Tarox cost ~$340 shipped to my door. I am anticipating the high quality that they are known for. Andy was easy to work with. I'm at the point in the project where you tend to throw $100 at it to get it to "done" :)
 
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