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On the bad side:
  • When you can vacuum a hole in the body with a shop vac, you know you have rust to deal with. Vacuumed a hole in the RH frame rail right above the steering rack. This thing sat under a leaking roof and the RH cowl is gone, RH inner fender (and outer) is gone, and RH frame rail is questionable. I don't mind cutting and splicing metal, but this is getting pretty deep.
Do you potentially have a parts car that could be used to make another one awesome?
Pete
 

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I'm in need of the same repaint on my badges. Can you tell me what Testors colors you used?
Sure thing, I used: 1169TT Flat Yellow, 1164TT Flat Green, 1150TT Flat Red, 1149TT Flat Black, then I clear coated it with Testors High Gloss Spray Enamel 1814T. Use light coats with the spray clear, I think it softens the enamel underneath slightly so if you use too much you'll end up with a really lumpy finish.

Compared to the photos of the NOS badges, its not really the same color shades as used originally. I guess that's artistic license, looks good to me anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter · #83 ·
Hi Pete,

There is always that potential. However, I kinda like this little car. It is very different from the GVT6.

Goals currently are:
  • Get the engine to run (closer, but not there yet)
  • Get the clutch hydraulics working
  • Get the brakes to work (likely $$$)
If I hit a roadblock on the first one that costs serious money, then I'll have to reconsider. (i.e. Spica pump is bad). I do like to fabricate and weld, but need to make sure the car is viable before diving into that. :)
 

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You can get the Bosch fuel injection off of a Spider (the whole engine/L-jet harness even, of course not oil pan). You can get Spica fixed at another time. I believe fab and weld may be needed for intake.

Not sure if this is actually cheaper tho.
 

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Discussion Starter · #85 ·
I Runs!!

Woo Hoo!!

Got a set of better jumper cables and cleaned all the positive and negative connection points. It cranked over much more quickly. After a few minutes fired and ran. It idles pretty good. Put a little temperature into it, but did not want to run too long - no water pump belt. Kicked it off a couple more times over the weekend, just because it is so exciting. Each time, just a little cranking with an increasing throttle and it pops right off. :)

Pulled the seized alternator and squirted a little PB blaster in and worked it around until it turned freely. Took it to the local alternator / starter rebuild shop and it tested fine (bearings a bit noisy). It will be good enough for now.

Air filters, belts on order from Centerline. I am hopeful to run it up to temperature soon.

Witty dropped by to pick up some parts from the load and dropped off a brand new clutch slave (Thank you). I have a new clutch master and hose, so that will be the next system to try and get operational. Maybe brakes for Christmas?? Probably too hopeful.
 

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Discussion Starter · #86 ·
A bit of a sidetrack. Since I got this to run, it makes sense to service the filters and get it ready to be driven. Went to change the SPICA oil filter - not a problem. Easy to get to. I even was aware of the "stripped stud" risk and was being gentle. But one question:

WHO THE $%**@ DESIGNED THAT COVER AND RETENTION!

It didn't take any effort to strip off a stud, and then of course the housing would not seal up. Who designs the studs to be softer than the nuts??? I ended up replacing the studs with hardened allen head bolt shanks. Now at least I can tighten normally.

This of course meant removing the pump - which meant removing the radiator to gain access. Not difficult, but I did not have that in the near term plans. Oh well, guess it gives good timing to replace all the coolant hoses - needed done anyway.

Here is the lower housing with the offending stud removed and the "before and after" of the allen screw:

Motor vehicle Gas Automotive exterior Auto part Nut



Had to drill out the old stud, since grabbing with a vice grip just resulted in shearing off the remainder. The studs are made from garbage. Cut the other two off and drilled them out as well - it was only a matter of time and they would strip too. Here are the tools used:

I used the stepped center drill to locate the center of the stud (installed the cover on the remaining two studs and used the hole to locate over the cut off stud). Then tap drilled and tapped using the set that I picked up at Ace. Finally, cut the allen screw down to make the stud and loctited it into the housing. You can see my depth guides on the tap drill and tap.

Font Electric blue Tool Slip joint pliers Fashion accessory


So my plans for change the oil and work on the clutch this weekend were a failure. Oh - also found that the thermostatic actuator is bad when I pulled the pump. Not surprising. Plus the fuel flow was plumbed backwards (orifice before the pump) by the PO. I'm going to have to keep my eyes open. It will be better when it goes back together!
 
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Discussion Starter · #87 ·
And if you think the cowl rust on this one is bad, take a look at the RH frame rail. About 18" of the bottom is missing! :oops: It will be easy enough to fix, but wow! Sorry for the lousy photo.

Wheel Tire Hood Automotive tire Vehicle


Before I start repairs (after this runs and drives) I need to photo document all the rusty spots. I'm actually looking forward to the patching (what is wrong with me??)
 

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Welcome, again, to the sometimes nightmare that is servicing our wonderful Alfas. I believe Italians think a car is a better/faster/sexier car if it is hard to work on, so designing something that is logical and easy to work on goes against their masculinity ...
Pete
 
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