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Nice! I'd be curious to see what the NOS badges look like, I just repainted mine with Testors model enamel and I'd like to know if I got close on the colors B)


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that looks good! I’ll take pictures of the new ones for comparison
 
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Nice! I'd be curious to see what the NOS badges look like, I just repainted mine with Testors model enamel and I'd like to know if I got close on the colors B)


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Can you paint mine?
 

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Watching! I have a black 79 MM that I will get to eventually after the spider and gtv6 are done. I’m lucky to have the rear spoiler, an upper spoiler (?) from a Velocissima, and a full set of NOS MM badging never used. ( thanks Jim Tyson! ) Also has the original style Ronal wheels but in 15 x 7 View attachment 1706841
Sorry, but
I'm not a fan of that rear spoiler - Edited by Admin to be less confrontational
 

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Well I’m glad that ended. It’s a cool thread to compare these cars. IMO the first models are always the purest representation of what the designer had in mind. Then you get special models, updates etc. And in the US we got saddled with “safety” add on’s. Side markers and the bumpers we all love. Still interesting to compare now that so few originals exist.
 

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Well I’m glad that ended. It’s a cool thread to compare these cars. IMO the first models are always the purest representation of what the designer had in mind. Then you get special models, updates etc. And in the US we got saddled with “safety” add on’s. Side markers and the bumpers we all love. Still interesting to compare now that so few originals exist.
Great colour car in the thumbnail
 

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Discussion Starter · #74 ·
15 X 7 Ronals are much nicer looking than the 14X6. Better dish. I like the badges, but I am not sorry that this car is missing the flying buttress spoiler. Cool in it's weirdness, but a bit over the top.

Long weekend, but not much car work.
The three port fuel pump is together and works. Hopefully won't leak. :)
Pulled the fuel tank and the inside is aweful! Dawn, hot water and a couple of chains took out some, but will need to go a little more severe before it can go back in. One buddy recommended Muratic acid (and caution) to remove the rust. It is cheap, but I will try a couple of sample parts before pouring it into the tank. There is no shortage of rusty parts around here! Probably need to admit that it needs to be coated. Speedway Motors has a kit and is local. About $50.

This week has two focusses: Pre-test and studying, then my midterm. Monte Carlo Simulation - complex but not hard. I'll be ready for some garage time come Sunday afternoon!
 
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Discussion Starter · #76 ·
Well - Muratic acid will definitely remove rust. My gravel drive now has a big orange spot! (neutralized the solution with baking soda before dumping it out). Good thing the leaves are falling to cover it up. Won't be an issue after I grade in the spring.

Reinstalled the fuel system on Sunday and ran fuel through it, with a little Stabil. first circulated with a hose bypassing the Spica pump for about 5 minutes, then hooked up the Spica and ran the electric pump for another 5. Figure this will do two things:
  1. Filter anything out of the system that is left over before I start to try and run it
  2. Put fresh fuel in the Spica pump and flush out any "yuck"
There are several leaks in the system, so I had to pump out the fuel before shutting down the shop. easy enough to do now that the electric pump is working. There are SO MANY connections in this system - ridiculous! The worst leaks are around the three lines at the pump and the tee into the return line (it may be rusted enough to be leaking though the tee itself). But getting fuel to flow is still a win.

Additional wins: Fuel pressure sender and light work, fuel gage and reserve light work (if you had seen the condition of the sender, you would have been amazed too)

Maybe I will have the chance to try and fire it off this weekend. I get 2 hour slots of time to work on it and want to make sure that once I start to attempt the restart, I can complete the effort. I am getting to the point where it is becoming harder not to spend money. Thinking about clutch and brake components. But I need to confirm that it will run before heading to those systems.
 
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Discussion Starter · #77 ·
Oh - and passed the Test and Pre-test with flying colors!!
 
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Discussion Starter · #78 ·
Things always seem to move more slowly than you would expect.

On the good side:
  • I was able to get spark. It took quite a while. Had to clean the points, rotor and cap. Then went through coil and condenser diagnosis. All good - still nothing. Finally had to build a new set of spark plug wires (had components left over from the GTV6 project). Now we have ignition!
  • Not counting time or transport costs, I have yet to put any serious money into this car. I think maybe $100 for filters and clutch hydraulics from Centerline. (I realize this will not hold, but I want to hear this thing run, even for a moment, before fully committing)
  • The A/C still is holding a charge! I was pulling some other parts off (see below) and thought about pulling the big, awkward compressor. So I stuck a screwdriver into the Schrader valve and it hissed! Now I will leave it installed. Wouldn't it be ironic if this was the only vehicle in the fleet with working A/C?
On the bad side:
  • When you can vacuum a hole in the body with a shop vac, you know you have rust to deal with. Vacuumed a hole in the RH frame rail right above the steering rack. This thing sat under a leaking roof and the RH cowl is gone, RH inner fender (and outer) is gone, and RH frame rail is questionable. I don't mind cutting and splicing metal, but this is getting pretty deep.
  • It will not crank with enough speed to start. This is with it jumped off the diesel truck (2 batteries, running, at 13.7V). I have moved to jumping at the starter, since the positive cable that runs to the back of the car is not in good shape. I suspect that my crappy jumper cables are not helping, but pulled the starter to clean terminals. Will also start cleaning grounds.
  • Pulled the starter off to clean up the connections. One of those jobs where you can see the bolts. They're right there! but getting a wrench on means wedging your hands where they don't really fit. Plus you only get 1/12 of a turn. Flip the wrench and repeat. Fortunately the hardware was only mildly rusty. Only enough that you have to use tools for the whole distance. :mad: Will wire brush them to the point where I can run them on with my hands before install.
  • Pulled the alternator (may as well clean that up too). It is frozen up like a solid chunk due to mouse urine. Since it sits under the A/C compressor and this car has headers, I did not know if it could be removed w/o a lot of hassle. Had to remove the vent cover from the back, but then it would barely squeak out.
This coming week will be cleaning and checking the starter and alternator. Probably will buy a GOOD set of jumper cables. And maybe a fan belt to run the water pump and alternator when I get that back in. :) I know winter is coming, and I want to get it to run before the barn becomes too cold to work in. At least Thanksgiving will provide a long weekend.
 

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Nice! I'd be curious to see what the NOS badges look like, I just repainted mine with Testors model enamel and I'd like to know if I got close on the colors B)


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I'm in need of the same repaint on my badges. Can you tell me what Testors colors you used?

My wife is the artist in our family. I've already tasked her with restoring the badges while I restore the oily bits!

Bob in Nashville
 
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