[Giulia67]

Hi,

I have seen a special tool that Alfa Romeo has used for all "nord" engines to remove the cylinder head.

Does any one have a picture of that tool? I need to make my own.
The tool great advantage is that it tips the head in front or rear first, then you use a spacer and move the tool the other side of the head, it will prevent the cyl sleeves to follow up with the head.

Thanks in advance

Fredrik

 

[Richard2]

There's one on eBay right now

 

[Bill S]

Heres a thread where Bill2000 describes a homemade one:

http://alfabb.com/bb/forums/showthread.php?t=31209&highlight=head+puller

Bill S

 

[bshorey]

Hi,

I have seen a special tool that Alfa Romeo has used for all "nord" engines to remove the cylinder head.

Does any one have a picture of that tool? I need to make my own.
The tool great advantage is that it tips the head in front or rear first, then you use a spacer and move the tool the other side of the head, it will prevent the cyl sleeves to follow up with the head.

Thanks in advance

Fredrik

While you can use the tool to break the front and the rear of the head gasket seal separately, I don't think it's commonly used that way. I always use it right in the center, and break everything free at once.

Also, you need to pull the head straight up and off. If you lift the front, or the rear, the head will bind on the studs.

Finally, the head removal tool does nothing to hold down the cylinder liners. Leave the car in neutral while you're pulling the head, then there are other hold down tools to hold down the cylinder liners.

HTH,

bs

 

[Richard2]

I managed to get a plate just the right size to cover all 4 cylinders, so made it to pull #1 and #4. It worked well.

 

[CTALFA]

The head removal tool that Bill2000 was kind enough to share is pretty slick.

I just built one.

I used 3/4" iron pipe and had the guy at home depot cut all of the parts right there for free. Using the 3/4" pipe I was able to skip pretty much any need for grinding the ID away to fit down to the top of the "flats" on the spark plugs that I MIG welded to them.
The only other thing was that I used 3/4" threaded rod for "bridging" the two upright pieces of pipe. It fits inside of the 3/4" pipe very nicely.

Love it when a tool can serve two purposes: break the head free of the block, and serve as a "handle" to lift and remove.

 

[bshorey]

The head removal tool that Bill2000 was kind enough to share is pretty slick.

I just built one.

I used 3/4" iron pipe and had the guy at home depot cut all of the parts right there for free. Using the 3/4" pipe I was able to skip pretty much any need for grinding the ID away to fit down to the top of the "flats" on the spark plugs that I MIG welded to them.
The only other thing was that I used 3/4" threaded rod for "bridging" the two upright pieces of pipe. It fits inside of the 3/4" pipe very nicely.

Love it when a tool can serve two purposes: break the head free of the block, and serve as a "handle" to lift and remove.

Sounds pretty slick, but I'm missing the image of how they fit together. If you could, please post a picture.

Thx,

bs

 

[Gabor K.]

Its quite simple, you just cut a rectangular plate that is right to rest on four of the head bolts. In the middle of the plate you drill a hole for a bolt. This bolt must have the special threads of the ignition plug. You then put the bolt through the plate resting on the head bolts and screw it into the plug hole. If you then have a nut on the overside of the plate you can start to turn and thereby pulling up the head. If there is a difficulty to make a bolt with the special threads of the spark plug, I have heard that you can just use a spark plug, put a wire through it and pull the wire through the hole in the plate by some bending mechanism.

Hope you can visualise what I discribed!

 

[Bill S]

Here's a picture of the one Bill2000 built from the thread I mentioned earlier. Sounds like CTAlfa made some improvements. It's a little bit different from the factory puller or the one that Gabor K. describes but you don't have to cut out a big thick metal plate - it's all stuff you can grab at any hardware store.

Bill S

 

[bshorey]

Here's a picture of the one Bill2000 built from the thread I mentioned earlier. Sounds like CTAlfa made some improvements. It's a little bit different from the factory puller or the one that Gabor K. describes but you don't have to cut out a big thick metal plate - it's all stuff you can grab at any hardware store.

Bill S

Ah, this is what I was looking for, I've got the factory puller so I know how that one works.

Thanks,

bs

 

[bshorey]

Its quite simple, you just cut a rectangular plate that is right to rest on four of the head bolts. In the middle of the plate you drill a hole for a bolt. This bolt must have the special threads of the ignition plug. You then put the bolt through the plate resting on the head bolts and screw it into the plug hole. If you then have a nut on the overside of the plate you can start to turn and thereby pulling up the head. If there is a difficulty to make a bolt with the special threads of the spark plug, I have heard that you can just use a spark plug, put a wire through it and pull the wire through the hole in the plate by some bending mechanism.

Hope you can visualise what I discribed!

Hiya,

I've got the factory puller, I know how that works. He's describing something different.

bs