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There appears to be a lot of room above that shelf, you altered to move the engine back, as thankfully the engine is very low in this car and it has a tall bonnet; so could the heater not be in the engine bay above that shelf?

Pete
 

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Discussion Starter #462
yes and no....im still working on the details, but intend to retain my power windshield idea, obviously you wouldnt put it down on at anything over say 35mph, but imagine cruising in town or at shows etc with the windshield down, and when i say down i mean down exactly like a side window, so...that space is reserved for the glass

ive located multiple places that can make full windshield laminated safty glass with full mountings, what ive not located yet is what seals would be ideal for this tho im leaning tward the rear glass seals from a toyota landcruiser
 

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This is a problem ... under seats will mean the windscreen demister won't work very well ... ??

Pete
 

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Discussion Starter #464
exactly my thoughts, i contemplated putting the heat in the rear and piping forward but felt it would scrub too much heat off trying to get to the front, good for the feet sure no good for the glass, tho i figure AC in the rear should work just fine blowing around the seats and under them


of course the space under the seats wouldnt be enough either, i could get the motor under 1 and the core under another LOL

the in the console will work, its just a a combination of grafting part of the vw box back together with abs plastic sheet, and then making my own outlet and venting, which will be easy since the box itself is ABS and then modifying the spine work i did to allow the motor to sit exactly where i need it to
 

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Have the heater radiator in the dashboard, and turn the centre console into a duct for the pressurised air with the fans somewhere in the back. Or have only the fan(s) in the top rear corner of the front guard(s) with the pressurised air piped to the heater radiator, making sure your windscreen has it's necessary clearance

OR do you really need that RHS above the driveshaft tunnel. If you removed that you would get a lot more room, and can you alter the driveshaft tunnel so less clearance with the driveshaft (remember other than flex, it does not move).

OR (but I don't think you have the room) make a duct from the rear of the engine radiator that somehow gets from the engine bay to the windscreen demisters and cabin (maybe using an inner liner on the bonnet as the duct). To turn heater off the heater flap redirects the air outside the top of the bonnet. You will have to wire up your engines electric fans to work when engine getting too hot, and also when you want heat in the cabin :) :) ... that would keep you busy!
Pete
 

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Discussion Starter #466
your looking down some paths i considered, the idea of useing the console as a duct was checked, rechecked and checked again, while it "might" work theres ALOT more stuff to pack into it, and as it is with the neon shifter housing, shifter cables going out to the transaxle(year remember i made shifting smoother and better) add to that all the electrical controls in it and your trying to pump air thru a rats nest, good idea just it has its own issues

with the headers planning on going UP off the engine and out thru the top corners of the inner fenders, front to rear space in the bay will be at an all time minimum in a hurry

the trans tunnel modding has been considered, but with so much mounted to it, and the want to keep things a easy to work on as i can i quickly ruled it out, and honestly i wouldnt gain much, but i still might mod the front just a smidge, will see
 

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Discussion Starter #467
so with a heater in mind i did some spine alteration, honestly i probably dont "need" the spine but i like knowing the the chassis is ridgid as possible without a cage, with the body work being as "thin" an unridgid as it is

with a rough idea of how the interior will lay out with carpet and fill panels etc, i knew i would be adding some side plates to the spine to aid in attachments so doing a pair of drop bars was a no brainer, i gained about 1.5 inches and the double bars will give me more space to bolt a heater box in, the only issue i came across which isnt new was that my cable shift setup would have the cables in the way floating out and over buldging the floor, so i made a drop out section thats re-enforced with bar stock inside the tubes with nuts welded to the back side, the results is cables being tightly tucked

i have also entirely removed the brake pedal and master assy, (read cut clean out) with new plans for how all that will get re-done, i had issues i didnt like that need to be adressed, so a few steps forward and a few steps back at the same time

make special note of where im pointing, and where the shifter is and you truely start to get an understanding of yes the clutch is in your hip! , i should shoot some vid of how that shifter works before i seal it all up, the throw is SHORT in all directions, in fact the shifter boot is a 2inch fender washer in a 1.25ish hole but the shifts are very crisp and feedback very well....losing the stock shifter and iso shift linkage was a huge improvement, but switching to cables was an improvment even over the shankle shift





 

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Looks good, console area much stronger now and the shifter cables aren't getting in the way. That area above the clutch put some extra thick underlay down!
Tim
 

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Discussion Starter #469
heres a few shots of the cable shift setup, just incase anyone is curious, works way better than the stock linkage
started dog housing in the cables as well








 

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Discussion Starter #470
ya know what gets old...working in the dark of the interior of a car, worse when your welding or doing cleanup...or both, so...i popped the top back off, in doing so i found a smidgen of flex i hadnt seen before and im seriously contemplating caging the thing now...i mean its not but 1/4 inch at the roof of the windshield but its enough to bug me



 

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Discussion Starter #471
before i pulled the seat, i closed my eyes and held the steering wheel and marked the dash, i did this several times and came to the conclusion the wheel needed to goto the left 2+ inches,since all my marks were in the same rough place, and a tripple check of center from door to edge of console confirmed it .....which also ment the brake setup had to be cut out changed and re-done..i always wanted and intended on keeping the brake master hidden up in the dash, trying to go for as clean of an engine bay as i can, not to mention the plan of the power window...i found with some minor tweaking i could re-arange everything and put the masters below the stop line of the window and get the braketry for them to clear the column "just"....

we all take for granted the placement of things, and where the designers put them....im realising this as i have to change locations of things that i thought id put in the right spot...when your basicly doing it from scratch its all a big can of worms



 

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Discussion Starter #472
built a bracket to weld in that would hold the master cage, trimmed down the firewall for a tight fitment, welded in said bracket and started working on braces and such, the fitment and clearances are all very nice..much better than expected actualy, of course ill have to make new pedal arms but thats not a big deal, except the clutch one will have to jog around the column










 

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Discussion Starter #473
fully dissasembled my LED turn signal setup, and rebuilt it on new custom made boards, the main board was custom made and programed by a guy who does model train stuff, the new LED boards were made by a friend of mine who makes alot of sound board stuff for musicians, 20leds per ring, de soiledered trimed re soildered, they "chase" and fade, with the flip of a ribbon i can change the direction on each ring for a few different styles






 

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Discussion Starter #474
with a total revamp of the brake master setup, which basicly translates into lowering fliping and side stepping the Howe aluminum cage mount, i needed to then make up a new "box" to keep everything "tight", the cage had to be transfered onto 16g sheet, and then a matching 16g "tray" was hand bent, and the firewall slowly cut to match then the tray back cut to match

as much as i didnt want the masters in the bay im happy with it










 

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Tidy.

Regarding flex. With the roof bolted on, is the flex resolved? If it is, don't worry about it unless you intend to drive around with the roof unbolted ...

You could measure the torsional strength of the chassis and then compare it to modern cars. If it's as good as a modern Toyota then probably better than a 75/Milano, so all good.
Pete
 

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When were you in Reno? Fetta GT with GTV6 bits in the suspension? Sounds like the car I just bought.
 

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Discussion Starter #477
When were you in Reno? Fetta GT with GTV6 bits in the suspension? Sounds like the car I just bought.
randy lee had me down to work on his pony(which is now mine) , as far as where uhhhh im not entirely sure, my internal compase was GARBAGE down there, what i remember is it feeling like an old town stuck in time till you went a few blocks, down hill a long ways then left then right (mind you a total of a 10 min drive, would land you at summit

said fetta gt with gt6 parts is sitting here with me as well cream on cream it "would" have been back down there had randy not passed

but if you did ever see a chalk/flat red fetta with euro bumpers race tires on some cool lookin gold wheels, thats the ride he gave me to come home
 

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Discussion Starter #478
Tidy.

Regarding flex. With the roof bolted on, is the flex resolved? If it is, don't worry about it unless you intend to drive around with the roof unbolted ...

You could measure the torsional strength of the chassis and then compare it to modern cars. If it's as good as a modern Toyota then probably better than a 75/Milano, so all good.
Pete
with the roof bolted it is indeed BUT...i can stress this enough the stock body is THIN and pretty weak, your totaly right about "not needing to worry" but can you put a price on piece of mind?

overall the ridgidity of the chassis as it stands right now is crazy, neer zero flex with the top on, so much so you can put a jack on the front right and have the body come up evenly, and have no more than 1/4 inch of flex across the total body, the flex point as it stands tho is entirely front to rear with ZERO side to side, however said flex is at the front at the window frame and doors so its more critical

the otehr thing i have to keep in mind about the flex i do have is how will said flex "age" with use, and how will modifying the window frame for a power window effect it
 
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