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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just picked up an 1983 Alfa GTV6. I know there's a lot of talk about wheels on this forum. I'm looking at 18" wheels, Sport Wheels (SSW). They are model S039,18 x 7.5 ET38,73.1mm hub dia, 5x100 bolt pattern. It is my understanding that these wheels should fit the GTV6 with the use of hubcentric rings and wobble nuts. I'm a bit critical about using wobble nuts, and the wheel guys I use never even heard of them. In addition, the hubcentric rings they sell are plastic. Are the plastic hubcentric rings okay to use?
 

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Beware of using the 5x100, as I had a set of SSR 5x100 rims at my house that were for a Subaru. I thought it would be fun to try and put them on my car, but I found that the lug holes were so small that the lugs wouldn't go in them.

So if the wheel is setup to use the small "tuner" nuts, they might not work.

YMMV.
 

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It can be done. I wouldn't recommend it. You'll be riding on rubber bands for tires (35 series).
Look here for a couple of examples on 18". Type3 GTV6 gallery Call Charlie (818) 848-3681 he can help you get sorted out.

The reason the tuner lugs didn't fit on 5x100 wheels on a 5x98 hub is because the lug studs won't be centered. That's why you need the "wobble" or variation nuts.
 

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I suppose the main question is, what is your goal? This car originally came with 14" wheels: going +4 is pretty extreme and rather than boosting performance is instead likely to really fark up the car's ride.

One of the key advantages of the GTV6's suspension layout is low unsprung weight, and you're going to destroy that by mounting big boat anchors to each wheel. Between that and having no sidewall compliance I don't think it's going to be very pleasant.

If you're just going for cosmetics it's down to how your tastes run, I suppose. Just be aware that there's going to be a cost to it in the way the car handles.

From my understanding plastic hubcentric rings are fine: they don't carry any load once the nuts are tightened, they're just there to keep everything centered as you tighten it up.
 

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I think I should have made myself a little more clear here. The actual holes for the lugs were too small, and in total, would not allow all five of the lugs to pass through at the same time.

It wasn't that the tuner lugs didn't work.. nothing would work. The wheels couldn't be put on the car. Unless you filed out the lug holes.. which.. as we've been saying "isn't recommended".


(edit)

The reason the tuner lugs didn't fit on 5x100 wheels on a 5x98 hub is because the lug bolts won't be centered. That's why you need the "wobble" or variation nuts.
 

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would not allow all five of the lugs to pass through at the same time.
Hmmm, that's odd. GTV6/Milano have the smallest bolt pattern. One can usually get a 5x100 onto the 5x98, just that the studs will emerge tight on the inside of the bolt circle. Also, most wheels will have a larger centerbore ('cept 164). You threw me when you said 'lugs". Even though we say lug "nuts", we usually say wheel "studs". My bad.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks for all. I personally didn't want to go bigger than 17", but it just so happens that a tire shop two blocks from me has these 18" wheels in stock on sale for about $500. They are now looking into ordering 5 x 98 in a 17" x 7" for me. I did some research on the wobble bolts and they are perfectly safe to use only with hub centric rings.
 

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I got some 4x100 rims for my Alfetta many years ago. They did not slide on readily. I was hoping they would so I could see how they looked on the car. I knew I was going to redrill the wheels and have inserts pressed in, so I filed about 1/2 mm off the inside of the hole and they went on.

The re-drilling cost me $150 for all 4 wheels. People told me that it is pretty common and not at all unsafe, that racers do it with no problems. My car is a street car and doesn't see the track but for a club tour once in a while. I don't know the accuracy of the statements that it is safe, but the wheel shop who did it said it was safe too.

I did not know about wobble nuts at the time, but the wheel does need to go on the car first. I don't know if filing out the hole so the wheels will go on and using wobble nuts is OK or not. I would think if you have to file out the hole, you should go for a re-drill. How much do wobble nuts cost anyway?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Maching the wheel is another alternative, but does anyone know the proper procedure?
Is it simply milling the existing holes/chamfer into a slot? or do inserts have to be pressed into a larger hole? I have access to a milling machine, however, I wouldn't mind some info from someone who as actually performed this task themselves. Wobble bolts seem to be the cheapest alternative right now, but where can I find them in Canada?
 

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I had the wheel shop do mine. For the conversion from 100mm to 98mm they didn't have to use the insert. They drilled to center it at 98mm and redid the cone surface.

Keep in mind that if you use the wobble items, it's the nuts you need and not the bolts. The bolts are cheaper than the nuts. Serpent sells the bolts for $80 and the nuts for $140, and then you still need the rings.

Looking at the picture they have of them, I really think if you can't slide the 100mm wheels onto your car, you may have trouble with the wobble bolts. Filing the hole out to accept the stud puts the stud right on the cone face. The wobble nuts look like they should have little play in the hole at least. Maybe I'm wrong.
 

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I believe MANTECH already has his wheels. The question is whether to use wobble nuts or redrill.
 

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I don't know, but, I think the question should also be,

"Will they clear the fenders without having to roll them and also cut away some of the lower cladding[trim] and fender, to avoid slicing new, expensive, rubber ??",,

I have had some 'medium larger' wheels and tires rub, and a few customer preferences not even work, without flaring wheel openings.
Just my 2 cents
 

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OK, re-read the thread. He hasn't purchased them quite yet. Yes by all means, re-think this wheel. It is quite extreme.

My preference is no bigger than 16" on this car and have heard of some with 17".
 

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It's all in the offset/tire choices. Clearly, if you absolutely, positively HAVE to have 18's. They can be fitted. Examples in link I provided earlier.

If you don't know what you're doing, you can choose even a smaller wheel/tire combination that doesn't fit - or at least doesn't fit as you'd like (note: 1000's of threads regarding wheel sizing).

Re-drilling is best for blanks unless the PCD is radically different and there is sufficient "meat" to drill. Don't forget the wheel bore as well. THAT may have to get machined, and between the two, many a crack was born...

I'd advise to Keep it simple. If you have to go through all that machine work, perhaps the choice wasn't all that good to begin with.
 
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