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Discussion Starter #1
Hello
One more step in this full restoration. I have taken the rear end a part, but I am having a difficult time to replace the differential oil seal. I went to Richard Ott in Vallejo but he does not have the tool to remove the bolt inside the differential flange that holds the drive shaft. Anyone out there , who has a source for such tool or knows any shop in the bay area that can help???
Thanks
Herve
 

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Discussion Starter #2
That tool is called the pinion nut socket (alfa romeo 2600)... If anyone has an extra one I would consider buying it...
Regards
Herve
 

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Hello Mike
No I am not in Mexico city.. I am in Benicia california..
Herve[/ Herve, I am not 100 percent sure but I think the tool you need works on the front crank seal also. I am trying to vrtify this buit have been unable to do so. I have a socket I made which works very well on the front crank seal, I do not wan to sell it but if you want to "borrow " it just pay for the insured shipping to and fro and you can "borrow" the tool to fiinishj the job.

Mikie V
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Hello Mike
I will ask richard Ott if he knows if that is the same tool. I will talk tomorrow to larry anderson he might have one to.. I will keep you posted.
Regards
herve
 

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Is it a slotted nut that bolts the drive shaft flange to the pinion gear? I made a tool, 15 years ago, out of a socket that was aproximately the same diameter as the nut and took an angle grinder and ground slots in the socket to fit the nut. It worked fine. A fallback plan if you can't find the correct tool.
 

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Replacing pinion Seal in 2600 rear end

Greeting Herve. While you are at it, consider replacing the 7mm thick factory pinion seal with one with same other dimensions from a yankee parts house, but 10mm thick. All seals, even in US, are measured in metric, so just take the remnants of your old one in. Finding one 7mm thick would be a real challenge. No place in Seattle has them, but 10mm are available. I finally started using them after deciding it would be far cheaper, work better and longer, and best of all, put the seal edge of the rubber in a spot not groved and worn down by the previous impurities in the oil at the edge of previous one.

lst inconsequential comment: The rear end for a 2600 spider is unique in having slightly higher gearing than rear ends for 2600 sprint, sedan, or any two liter -- spider, sedan, or sprint -- which are basically same except for the ratio. They are all interchangeable, but the 2600 spider's different gear ratio explains the difference in speed. I put a 2600 spider rear end into a two Seliter spider for which I had rebuilt an engine. Then I drove it to Denver from Seattle and was passed by only two vehicles -- a motor cycle near Pocatello on the flats and a semi down hill on the east side of Rawlins pass in Wyoming in the first snowstorm of 1987. Good rework with intake maniforl conversion and weber carburetors provides enough extra power to benefit from the higher gearing in a two liter after a trade. Down side is that I must drive in a lower gear in town to stay within limits without having rpm down too low.

2nd Inconsequential Comment: The 2600 rear end assemby slightly differs from two liter rear end. It has a preload shim in a slightly different location. There is a further problem I discovered the hard way. The flange for the universal joint on a 2600 bolted to the pinion shaft (input shaft) held on by this very bolt you are concerned with is ever so slightly larger in diameter than the universal joint for a two liter. If one uses a 2600 universal on a two liter (i.e. the 2600 universal joint with two liter rear end and driveline, or maybe 2600 rear end, but with two liter driveline) the flange on one side or other -- driveline or rear end -- breaks, unless one slightly grinds the "X" to decrease the diameter.

Consequention Comment: As regards this thread and your need for the factory pinion nut tool, rest assured that it takes the same one to remove the pinion jam nut off any 2600 or any two liter rear end. But the home made one offered thus far should work if the original socket had been good quality, but if a "cheapie", only maybe. The 125 lb torque applied through the "fingers" fitting into the nut is the killer for other than factory tool.

Meanwhile, since California a long way from Seattle, and my tool so precious I'd almost have to accompany it if I were to lend it, I will continue to silently watch this thread. Fear not! If all else fails, I feel responsible to any fellow alfisti. Over the past years I have also received many favors. The joy we all perceive from driving these cars is what keeps us so close. But it is time for you to know the seven secrets of Alfa Romeo car design. For your benefit I provide them in attachment. Ponder them. You are deep into a mysterious love. Jay
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Hello Fellow alfitists
Thanks for all your inputs, always very pertinent .. I went to see Conrad Stevenson, wonderful guy he happened to have that tool.. so now I will go to my local machine shop and have them make me one..if anyone is interested I could have some extra ones made

merci
Herve
 

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Hello Fellow alfitists
Thanks for all your inputs, always very pertinent .. I went to see Conrad Stevenson, wonderful guy he happened to have that tool.. so now I will go to my local machine shop and have them make me one..if anyone is interested I could have some extra ones made

merci
Herve
I'm interested but would need to know how much the tool costs before making a committment.
 

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Bump,

I need to dive into a 2600 differential job as well and I am also willing to buy anyones' extra un-needed tools.

I am searching the theads now but here is a quick question....
I see 18 special tools listed for diff work on the 2600 in the tools catalog.
How many are actually needed to perform a successful differential overhaul ?

If anyone in this club has done an overhaul ......

Thanks in advance !

Bruce Toski
954 583-4191
 

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Thanks to Jay Nuxoll who took some time on the phone to answer some questions. I got the diff and the driveshaft out of the 2600 spider. Ring / pinion look worn down and this is probably the noise source. The front U joint was binding and that was probably the vibration. Looks like there are no sources for the U joint. Waiting for responses from Re-O and AFRA. Had one helluva time getting the half shaft axles out. Will post a pic later of the pullers I made for the task.

Can anyone tell me the size of the 6 sided nut at the rear of the transmission holding on the rubber transmission piece ? Looks like 34mm but I can't get my vernier caliper in there to be sure.

Thanks,
Bruce Toski
 

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Discussion Starter #15
u joints

Hello
If you do not get any from afra or matt, let me know I have a couple that are in perfect condition.
regards
herve
 

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Thanks Herve,
Looks like my binding U joint is going to be fine with some cleaning and re-greasing.
Still wondering if anyone can tell me the size of the rear nut on the transmission ?
I need to order a 6 point 1/2 drive socket for it.
I would also like to buy the diff flange gasket from someone ....
Bruce Toski
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Hello
You will have to make your own tool to remove the nut. as far as the gasket you can make your own or order a new one from Afra.
rewgards
Herve
 

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Herve,
I am asking about the 6 point nut on the rear of the tranny.
Just trying to figure out the size in mm.
If I make the gasket for the differential mounting flange it would help to at least know the thickness of the stock gasket. I would be much obliged if someone would measure this for me ... if anyone has this gasket in the first place.
Thanks,
BT
 

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I bought a 36mm impact socket today. This is too big for the rear nut on the transmission. Tomorrow I will try a 34mm. I tried to make the special tool socket that removes the ring nut
( 2600 front crankshaft pulley / differential pinion nut ) using a 1" impact socket and by welding 6 pieces of "key" stock around the periphery of the socket but it bent too easily. Will have to either purchase the proper socket that was made by Alfa ( A.5.0114 ) or get a larger impact socket and cut out the necessary slots with an air vane / cutting disc, or find some stronger key stock and try again. I would like to know - if anyone has sliced up an impact socket - what size / brand socket did you use? Different manufacturers have different thickness walls for their sockets. At this point also willing to pay $100 or more for a good Alfa socket that has part number A.5.0114 on it.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Hello
as far as the differential nut, you will have to have one made(not available) I had one made if you send me a check for $250 (deposit) and $40 for rental I will help you out. as far as the flange gasket make your own or buy one from afra.
regards
herve
 
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