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Discussion Starter #1
Busy with annual training, but driving my 1991 Alfa 164L with the new heads and new tensioner, car was running great but died at a red light sitting at idle.

Started up and ran fine until parked (never had to stop and idle), idled OK for a bit after parking until shutdown, but after class, when started, idled rough then died twice.

Code check gave 4-4-4-4 both times, car still has original IAC, IAC has been put on and removed numerous times lately in changing the heads, and checking anc re-checking cam timing, and changing fuel injector o-rings, and changing fuel injectors.

I'm hoping it's the IAC, which I did clean a couple of years ago, and praying it's not the timing/valves.

Up to 90 miles on the new heads.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks, I'll check all that out after my check ride tomorrow, Roadtrip.

In the American Airlines Flight Academy parking lot.

I just hope I bring all the right tools.

The good news is I'm up to 80 miles on the news heads I installed June - July, and 30 miles on the second timing belt tensioner I installed since I installed the new heads, the fuel injectors have stopped leaking finally, but the coolant line is still leaking.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Earleir toady, between simulator and class, I checked:
- air intake boot.

- the IAC Bosch connection.

- the min/max Bosch connection.

- the MAF Bosch connection.

All connections are connected and pinned, still think IAC/IAC grommet may be the culprit, but then again what do I know?
 

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Well, CMalfa...your getting to know more and more every day:) How you didn't crash the simulator:)
 

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Another thing you can check is the intake runner gaskets and boots? Just brainstorming on the thought? Any pix of the simulator class that you would like to share.....
 

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....... still think IAC/IAC grommet may be the culprit, but then again what do I know?
I don't think so, unless it's gone altogether causing a massive false air leak. I think it much more likely to be an intermittently failing Idle Stabilizer. But check the continuity and adjustment of the Min/Max Switch first.
 

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Get a spray can of carb cleaner or brake cleaner and with engine running at idle spray intake runner rubber couplings, chrome tube base plate gaskets, oil seperator and idle actuator hoses and grommet, Air Flow meter corragated hose, brake booster hose anything connected to intake plenum to rule out false air leaks.

If you find a false air leak when spraying aforementioned items you will get a surge in idle.

Report your findings.

Always have a fire extinguisher handy for safety.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Just got finished with my simulator ride, and off to the parking lot to troubleshoot.
Thanks for all the help and tips.
Update to follow.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Well, after my simulator ride I went out started the car, it sounded good, and decided to drive it home before I worked on it, it ran great all the way home, high and low speed, and idled fine in my garage.

Sprayed all the lines and intake runners/gasket areas with carb fluid, with no change in rpm.

Could a partially loose gas cap have caused this, without giving a "Check Engine" light?

Also, here's a simulator picture for 164 Family, who asked
 

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Discussion Starter #14
And just to show the difference between the view from in the simulator, here's the view of of one of those Seattle mountain peaks on an early morning takeoff from Seattle, from one of the best seats.

Bumper sticker on that jet?

"My Other Vehicle Is An Alfa Romeo 164L"
 

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Which model airliner? Surely not one of those tacky airbus.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Starts with a B.

And two weeks later, on the same flight, on one of those rare, beautiful, absolutley cool, clear, crisp Seattle days without a cloud or drop of moisture in the blue, clear sky and visibility unlimited, a Horizon pilot riding with us pointed out the "sacred" 7 or 15 peaks or whatever number of peaks we could see.

Beats being a paperboy.
 

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Gas cap should not have any effect on it and no code in OBD1 for it anyway.
 

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Crankshaft position sensor. Its failing. You can spray your car till you're silly in the head, but that's a classic cps symptom on these engines. I'm no doctor, but cleaning could help, doubt it though.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Checked the resistance, cleaned it and checked the gap of the crankshaft position sensor back in January when I was troubleshooting my no start condition, which turned out to be due to bent valves.

Something may have changed with it in the seven months and 100 miles of driving since then, so I'll check it again.

Cleaned and lubed the idle air controller, and warpped the grommet with electrical tape for a tighter fit, but still have the problem of car dying on decel and at idle sometimes.
 
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