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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi,

Have a new main engine mount to put on the car and unsure how. Have heard partially lowering the front subframe while supporting the engine is the way to do it. Tried undoing the nut (engine load still on) on top of the mount and couldn't turn it.
Has anyone tried undoing one of these and found the old mount so old the nut just turned without releasing?
 

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Hi Richard,

Is the "main engine mount" the right (passenger side here in US) rear mount? If so, I suspect you'll need to place a piece of wood (like 12" x 12"x 3/4" plywood or a 2" x 6") under the oil pan to hold it in position with a hydraulic jack; while you lower the sub-frame with another jack.

I've never done it that way but I did lift the engine up with a hydraulic engine lift and removed the motor mount. The bolt did not turn inside the rubber mount.

Mark
 

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1990 164QV Euro spec & 1991 168B
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Which mount one under a/c compressor mount in front or one under axle mount in the rear? You can't move nut at all or nut and bolt turn?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Hi,
thanks and sorry for the lack of clarification.
I did mean the one bottom at the rear of the sump/oil pan. Didn't manage to turn the central nut but could have tried harder - just found it so tight wondered if there was some kind of locking pin involved.
Understand it is the same part for both 12v and 24v 3.0 engines.
 

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Hi,
thanks and sorry for the lack of clarification.
I did mean the one bottom at the rear of the sump/oil pan. Didn't manage to turn the central nut but could have tried harder - just found it so tight wondered if there was some kind of locking pin involved.
Understand it is the same part for both 12v and 24v 3.0 engines.
OK rear one for mount near oil filter. Get a cheater bar hollow pipe on socket and breaker bar. If both nut and stud turn the put a jack up inside the metal cup on bottom of mount to hold stud.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Great idea, thanks Steve. Have a feeling it might happen as the rubber is pretty shot - made worse by living in oil from every filter change.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Hi, was finally going to get round to doing this today but had a thought. How am I going to hold the car up? Am not keen to use the front (side) jacking points and normally lift the car using the front (central) one on the subframe, then add axle stands under the front bolts on each side. But, as I need to loosen the front subframe's rear bolts to get clearance for the engine mount removal...

Is it doable that way? Would position axle stands under the side jacking points too - just in case.
 

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If you are only replacing the REAR engine mount, there is no real need to loosen any of the subframe mounting bolts. So you can put your jackstands anywhere on the subframe you want. Just disconnect the upper motor mount, and tilt the engine forward with a jack (I like to also like to loosen the center nuts on the front and trans mounts to avoid stressing the rubber on those mounts while I have the engine tilted forward).

When you are replacing the front engine mount, it is very useful to lower the subframe on that side while simultaneously raising the engine on that side.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
If you are only replacing the REAR engine mount, there is no real need to loosen any of the subframe mounting bolts. So you can put your jackstands anywhere on the subframe you want. Just disconnect the upper motor mount, and tilt the engine forward with a jack (I like to also like to loosen the center nuts on the front and trans mounts to avoid stressing the rubber on those mounts while I have the engine tilted forward).

When you are replacing the front engine mount, it is very useful to lower the subframe on that side while simultaneously raising the engine on that side.
Many thanks. That suddenly makes the whole thing sound possible :)
 

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Yes, believe it or not, I would rather have to replace that rear one than the front one. The mount is not completely surrounded by the frame on that one, so you can slide it out. It does not have a super long stud on it either like the front mount. You will see when you get in there. That front one though, is tough to change out.
Charles
 
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Richard,

One point I see nobody has mentioned is that the nuts of the three bolts holding the "rear" engine mount are spot-welded to the frame, so you only need to use a socket(above) on the bolt itself. BTW, the "corner" bolt has a 13mm head, and the other two are 15mm, from memory.

It took me quite a few grunts to break those nuts free.....in my ignorance!

All is well now. Dennis.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Richard,

One point I see nobody has mentioned is that the nuts of the three bolts holding the "rear" engine mount are spot-welded to the frame, so you only need to use a socket(above) on the bolt itself. BTW, the "corner" bolt has a 13mm head, and the other two are 15mm, from memory.

It took me quite a few grunts to break those nuts free.....in my ignorance!

All is well now. Dennis.
Many thanks for the info, Dennis. The more I know before going for this the better.
Cheers,
Richard
 
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